Onoff

Tonight George had another go at positioning the wc relative to the existing soil. Ignoring my suggestion above, having the soil level with the frame he moved it even further left! I'm now going to give him the cut down Geberit black elbow, Geberit adaptor and Floplast elbow that I mocked up for him when trying to advise him remotely. @Nickfromwales, does this below meet with your approval? Also is it OK to cut the grey soil sticking out of the wall flush? A couple of things concern me; first he's a rather big, lad circa 21 stone so he'd best be fixing this properly! Second the Floplast fitting has the ribbed rubber flanges that push inside the 110mm pipe. Cheers

Sounds like she needs a hobby!

So my mate started with this intending to fit a Geberit wall frame (excuse the repeat pictures): As aforementioned I went to the trouble of mocking something up at home with a spare frame: With the soil in line with the frame it all works: He was moaning he always burns his leg on the rad when sitting on the wc (see first pic above) so moving the wc left alleviates that and it all works. He's sent me pics today. Moaning that he can't for love nor money get a soil adaptor to fit to go from the Geberit to wall soil connections. I explained he needs to move the wc further left: I explained he needs to move the wc further left to which he says "I can't becasuse I want a 500 wide sink and the door will hit it!" Told him to move the Geberit frame left a bit more and rehang the door which he hadn't thought of. No doubt there's a Geberit "straight" pipe available instead of the black right angled one but whatever's quickest at this point! EDIT: Guessing maybe this is the sort of thing that could replace the black elbow that comes with the frame: https://superbath.co.uk/5671/geberit-straight-connector-set-for-wall-hung-toilet-excentered-by-5-cm?number=ISI150104&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6PTMwqjk5QIV1OJ3Ch0zMgJIEAkYCSABEgIdvPD_BwE

Surely if the seat is the width of the pan then if you go for the same style of "lid covers seat", the lid will be wider than the pan and overhang? Options available where the lid is the same width as the pan. I think where lid covers seat is more hygienic. Is this an indicator that you're at the end of the build, that SWMBO can now worry about trivial stuff like this? ?

Never thought about the issue...until now! Don't think I could have even said whether the lid covered the seat etc without having looked. It does and the seat is smaller than the pan: I'm going to be conscious of my visible rim from now on!

Make mine well done with pepper sauce: https://www.theguardian.com/technology/2019/nov/10/3d-printed-meat-european-restaurant-menus-environment

Is this to put the brakes on home generation, because the grid can't cope or a bit of both?

A couple of places with good ranges: https://www.replacementtoiletseats.co.uk/ & https://www.choicereplacementtoiletseatshop.co.uk/

The BiL has the small 36V Makita DUC302Z jobbie and is super impressed. An "aerial bar" type I believe its called. I think though the speed is different to their more conventional models, 8m/s vs 20m/s on the one you're looking at. I thought too that he said the chain was a different width or something but can't find the info.

Typically I have sited the bath in the shadiest corner of the garden!

Yep, 3 panels I had! 1 panel is intact. On the two damaged panels 9 out of the 24 tubes are totalled. The rest look to be in good order. Oddly enough I spoke to (I think it was Jack) at Navitron the other week about replacement tubes.

My bath is massive and boxed in. A couple of things I did which really work are partially sink it into the floor so there's no level change stepping in and out. I also sloped the sides inward so you can stand closer when reaching over to the taps etc. The taps also have a quick release system for changing them etc. Pre grouting the bath sides: There's 150mm of pir under the bath (under the grey painted concrete) except where the sunken bit is, only 50mm under that bit. The side walls have 50mm pir then 50mm eps where the bath is. It does stay warm tba.

Should have done this back when it was warmer but I finally got around to filling the old bath up with 9kg of citric acid in water. The only "hot" was the 3 buckets from the tap that I mixed it up with, the rest was from the garden hose. Should have blocked the overflow off too to get a deeper fill as a couple of bits of the crossmember are poking above the surface. Made a rough lid from a denailed / renailed pallet and a bit of lorry siding (not quite wide enough). In went the MK1 Focus rear cross member (gut feel it's too far gone to be bothering) and one of the rear trailing arms (salvageable I reckon). No ideas what'll happen in this weather, guessing it might freeze? The bath is outside up against the derelict stable. Assume the derusting will be really slow too with no heat?

I had a few bits from here. Had to chase delivery on one occasion but went with them as they were the cheapest I could find: https://www.britishbathroomcompany.co.uk/

You can't see it in conduit.

Might not apply to you if your ceiling joists are rough cut / irregular but I cut battened some squares of p5 chipboard to use as "stepping stones" in my loft. Loads of weird bits of plumbing and wiring etc and eventually there'll be no need for this area to be boarded anyway. Means I can "board" an area as a temporary working platform then move it. I keep meaning to add some screws that'll just point down into the top of the joist. If you aren't careful and tread on one from the side it can scoot off underfoot like a skateboard!

All fair points. Do what you feel best. (I just hate waste). I'd be weighing the job up in terms of diesel used rather than my time. Dont forget to store those panels weighted or otherwise secured against them taking off!

Tbh if you just lay a bit of pir on a cold concrete surface, like a drive, the underside will get wet. I'd say keep going, how big an area has pir underneath? That's a good few quid a sheet that. You can always repair pir with expanding foam and heavy duty Bacofoil and silver tape.

Buildhub loan one out primarily for people doing UFH runs. I made mine:

I'd see if it'll push back into place maybe hold it up with some roof and gutter type mastic from a sealant gun.

The green rolls...look to have been dumped up there with the pir offcuts so suggests modern materials. Have you a modern extension on the house anywhere? Some sort of breather membrane or building paper maybe, don't think it's roofing felt or insulation looking at one of the ends..... Be good if you could clear it out tbh.

Green rolls...no idea. That black stuff coming away is roofing felt - see the string reinforcing in it? It's your second line of defence against wind and rain getting under the tiles. It can get torn from below or just wasn't done right in the first place. I've the same issue. Birds and vermin can get in my spaces in the old roof above the felt and below the tiles. Look for a firm bulge and push, often it'll be a nest and you'll hear a disgruntled squeak! My main problem areas are either side of the badly detailed dormer cheeks and where an old chimney was removed.

Not a criticism but I'm guessing you didn't use a decoiler? Pipe having it's own natural lay etc (like cable).

Actually that's got to be a "bitch" doing it on your own?

"begging" to be covered by a suspended ceiling? ?