Onoff

As in you can or you can't? Presumably, given the price of electricity it makes sense if using an ASHP to minimise heat losses in the property so it becomes cheaper to run? Would an ASHP be cheaper than oil in a leaky old house (like mine ?).

Seams a bit rough...

Than many penetrations between rooms.....are there any Part B, Part E considerations that say you need to seal them up?

Off down the modification rabbit hole I went... Drilled 4 more holes to be able to move the roller assembly up, shortened the downward leg by 25mm and extended the slots. Also drilled 20mm holes through the top like on the other post for an M16 "safety" bolt (should the welds ever fail). A quick flap disc: And a lick of galv spray as a holding coat: Next I'll lop off the L shape bit to weld it back on 25mm lower.....when I can find the backing nut for my 9" grinder..... ?.....last used when I cut the first stainless lintels up....probably stuck to the slitting disc.....now where's that.....

Erm...I like making work for myself?

The first gate post is pretty much 20mm lower than the second. All pretty plumb and level, just lower: First post / pillar: Second post / pillar: Thinking for a start to cut off and reweld the high post 20mm lower, might even get 25mm lower. It'll mean too trimming where it's slotted to engage with the gate. My roller assembly (though it works a treat) was a "temporary" lash up of Buffalo board cut to fit inside the box, nuts, bolts and reinforced hose. Very resilient and quiet: Out with the set square & grinder then I suppose!

At least nothing leaks! ?

Bugger! Second pillar was going so well and we were paying closer attention to the joint thicknesses. I'd done a couple of arbitrary laser checks between pillars on the lower courses which said it was nom 20mm out one side to the other but then just carried on with this second one. Bear with me, just venting here, but I think I know how I'm going to mitigate unless any better suggestions. Both columns will be 32 bricks high. Nom 75mm per course as in 65mm brick + 10mm mortar. Looking from the front the first pillar is too high. At 26 bricks high its 1960mm where it should have been 1950mm by design (26x75=1950). The second pillar at 26 bricks high is 1930mm so 20mm too low. Its round the back things have gone a bit wrong for some reason. I've not yet finished the second pillar: On the first pillar course 30 pretty much sits under the 100x100 gate member: To the extent that to maintain a gap around the steel I cut a section out of the brick. Also did the top brick so it looks symmetrical: HOWEVER...the second post is coming out 45mm too low. Brick 30 will pass under it by a mile. From the top of brick 30 to the the top of the grey post is 145mm. The top of brick No32 would therefore be just about level with the top of the post rather than showing a good, notched out chunk like on the first pillar above. I think sitting here back in the warm that the grey posts are sitting at different heights. Off to measure/laser in a minute. If I do nothing and carry on then the front, road view will look right but the rear won't. Saying that pillar 2 will be forever covered by the gate. Tempted to up these last 6 courses mortar joints from 10 to maybe 12mm to help mitigate the rear. That'd put the top of the brick about 20mm above the steel. I want to maintain some clearance around the post where it comes out of the pillar as there's some deflection if the gate is banged hard. Shouldn't tbh be a huge issue once the motor is driving it. Off into the damp/cold for some more mulling! ?

Typical bloody council rewires done in trunking. Private customers can end up with it too mind. The wife's late aunt, very well to do and loaded had a couple of "wonderful chaps" rewire her big place. Surface mount everywhere. They went up the wall in mt, stopped at the ornate plaster coving then across the ceilings to the lamps again in trunking. Paid cash, done in a day, no certs etc.

As an example see here how there's two Redland 49 variants; granular and through coloured. One suitable for shallower pitches. My main roof is about a 45deg pitch. Theres then a shallow pitch roof at the rear. I think it's all done in granular so moss loves to take hold on the shallow pitch.

Looks like some serious trip hazard / foot entanglement issues too.

Here is the incident report: https://www.ife.org.uk/Firefighter-Safety-Incidents/shirley-towers-2010/34619

You're a true gent. Thank you.

You can get similar tiles that are, for want of a better word, "smoother" to use on shallower angle roofs. Check the Marley ones are as suitable as the Redland for your angle.

Not for me. As above, it for my mate Simon. A Saffa sparks but he's alright really, we go back years. Do you want something for it?

Thanks. A bit lost.... you mean a usb to parallel converter. Then Mach 3 is what hardware or software? He wants to build a cnc table where he can use his wood router and his plasma cutter. Sure someone on here has built their own cnc table, you, Jeremy maybe?

Fingers crossed I win at least a tenner then!

I promise if I win big I'll buy that glazing!

I pray for 6 numbers or death. Don't think I'm joking.

Thanks. So to use on a modern pc...a converter? USB to parallel?

Jesus! Dig up stairs room adjacent to the bathroom to allow UFH routing to all other rooms, garden room, hip to gable conversion on the house, rebuild the stable, re roof and ewi the house, lounge diner knock through. Lower floors in kitchen, conservatory (and lounge). Excavate around whole house and slope land away from it, treatment plant, drive, storage over garage... For now I might just do some infill fence panels either side of the pillars... Not enough money or years left tbh!

6 courses to go!

A mate has just asked me this. I haven't got a clue but I reckon someone here knows! ? "Do you know much about CNC controller cards, from what I understand you can get them standard ready to run just need to connect to PC and stepper motor drives?"

You need to get yourself a copy of the On Site Guide then check out Appendix E. There are clear tables in there that give the conduit 'factor' for that size conduit, a big number dependent on whether it's a short straight run or a long one with varying numbers of bends. You then find the cable factor for whatever csa cable (assuming singles) and whether is solid or stranded. Basically you don't exceed the conduit factor with all the cable factors added together.