Onoff

The BiL has the small 36V Makita DUC302Z jobbie and is super impressed. An "aerial bar" type I believe its called. I think though the speed is different to their more conventional models, 8m/s vs 20m/s on the one you're looking at. I thought too that he said the chain was a different width or something but can't find the info.

Typically I have sited the bath in the shadiest corner of the garden!

Yep, 3 panels I had! 1 panel is intact. On the two damaged panels 9 out of the 24 tubes are totalled. The rest look to be in good order. Oddly enough I spoke to (I think it was Jack) at Navitron the other week about replacement tubes.

My bath is massive and boxed in. A couple of things I did which really work are partially sink it into the floor so there's no level change stepping in and out. I also sloped the sides inward so you can stand closer when reaching over to the taps etc. The taps also have a quick release system for changing them etc. Pre grouting the bath sides: There's 150mm of pir under the bath (under the grey painted concrete) except where the sunken bit is, only 50mm under that bit. The side walls have 50mm pir then 50mm eps where the bath is. It does stay warm tba.

Should have done this back when it was warmer but I finally got around to filling the old bath up with 9kg of citric acid in water. The only "hot" was the 3 buckets from the tap that I mixed it up with, the rest was from the garden hose. Should have blocked the overflow off too to get a deeper fill as a couple of bits of the crossmember are poking above the surface. Made a rough lid from a denailed / renailed pallet and a bit of lorry siding (not quite wide enough). In went the MK1 Focus rear cross member (gut feel it's too far gone to be bothering) and one of the rear trailing arms (salvageable I reckon). No ideas what'll happen in this weather, guessing it might freeze? The bath is outside up against the derelict stable. Assume the derusting will be really slow too with no heat?

I had a few bits from here. Had to chase delivery on one occasion but went with them as they were the cheapest I could find: https://www.britishbathroomcompany.co.uk/

You can't see it in conduit.

Might not apply to you if your ceiling joists are rough cut / irregular but I cut battened some squares of p5 chipboard to use as "stepping stones" in my loft. Loads of weird bits of plumbing and wiring etc and eventually there'll be no need for this area to be boarded anyway. Means I can "board" an area as a temporary working platform then move it. I keep meaning to add some screws that'll just point down into the top of the joist. If you aren't careful and tread on one from the side it can scoot off underfoot like a skateboard!

All fair points. Do what you feel best. (I just hate waste). I'd be weighing the job up in terms of diesel used rather than my time. Dont forget to store those panels weighted or otherwise secured against them taking off!

Tbh if you just lay a bit of pir on a cold concrete surface, like a drive, the underside will get wet. I'd say keep going, how big an area has pir underneath? That's a good few quid a sheet that. You can always repair pir with expanding foam and heavy duty Bacofoil and silver tape.

Buildhub loan one out primarily for people doing UFH runs. I made mine:

I'd see if it'll push back into place maybe hold it up with some roof and gutter type mastic from a sealant gun.

The green rolls...look to have been dumped up there with the pir offcuts so suggests modern materials. Have you a modern extension on the house anywhere? Some sort of breather membrane or building paper maybe, don't think it's roofing felt or insulation looking at one of the ends..... Be good if you could clear it out tbh.

Green rolls...no idea. That black stuff coming away is roofing felt - see the string reinforcing in it? It's your second line of defence against wind and rain getting under the tiles. It can get torn from below or just wasn't done right in the first place. I've the same issue. Birds and vermin can get in my spaces in the old roof above the felt and below the tiles. Look for a firm bulge and push, often it'll be a nest and you'll hear a disgruntled squeak! My main problem areas are either side of the badly detailed dormer cheeks and where an old chimney was removed.

Not a criticism but I'm guessing you didn't use a decoiler? Pipe having it's own natural lay etc (like cable).

Actually that's got to be a "bitch" doing it on your own?

"begging" to be covered by a suspended ceiling? ?

A few of us have the Hudson Reed Reign: https://www.victorianplumbing.co.uk/hudson-reed-reign-triple-concealed-thermostatic-shower-valve-round-plate-rei3411? A simple, thermostatic bar mixer is easier to replace though.

It would tbh buy very little for an old Capri. A mint parcel shelf went for £750.

I'd have had it passing through a noggin.

About £120 for 10m of 12x12x0.91 polished 304 angle.

Stainless steel angle trim is likely out on grounds of cost so I'm mulling: - Black pvc angle. Will I reckon frame the flints nicely, could be positioned with perfect cut mitres and held in place with CT1. Only worry is it going brittle & thus longevity. It could be masked up before the flint infilling. - Aluminium angle, mitred as per the pvc, primed on the back and stuck on the same way. I don't feel confident enough to TIG the corners. When the flints are in either prime and paint the face of the ali black or just bring it up bright with say wire wool and clear laquer. I think I have to do a trial!

For neatness and getting it up out of the way of vermin I'd clip it and just drop down to each position. If ever you decide to add more lights the hole saw might "find" the cable if laid atop the soffit board! Makes if easier adding stuff if not clipped though.

A lot... As an aside I went into my new bathroom this morning at 4am. The newly fitted extractor vents to the soffit outside and has no back draught flappy thing. Fan not running but it was a balmy 13degC in there...no heat of any sort in there yet mind. Put your hand up by the ceiling and you can feel the cold draught. Don't know how long I can live with this "interim" solution! ? Can I get a back draught vent that goes in a soffit?

Trailing edge for capacitive loads as in LV trannies full of "electronics" and drivers for LEDs. The dimmers themselves have more gubbins in them. (Because of the higher component count one could argue more to go wrong). Leading edge for inductive & resistive loads. They rely on chunky TRIACS, DIACS etc. A resistive load for example a good old fashioned incandescent or halogen "bulb". Leading edge dimmers really only for higher wattage stuff so they don't like the lower power requirements of LED stuff. An inductive load being say a motor. As for Click Mode bits do you mean these? https://www.click4electrics.co.uk/click-mini-grid-modules-dimmers-c-328_518_713/