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Posts
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Everything posted by Onoff
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Knock the base out and fill with soakaway crates?
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Spoke to my neighbour earlier. He used MTS in Ashford. Suggested I ask if they do a "City" tanker. Better for narrow, tight drives. Think he said he paid £150 for 2000L of liquid taken out.
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Bath Surround / Boxing In, and concealed pipework
Onoff replied to Onoff's topic in Bathrooms, Ensuites & Wetrooms
SWMBO wants 4 shelves in this cupboard. Towels on one, toiletries on another, cleaning products on one etc. Can't decide whether to make a rolling shelf or "airing cupboard" style, slatted shelves. Just playing with ideas really: Not convinced about having clean towels above a (dirty) linen basket in an enclosed cupboard! I think someone else mentioned the same thing previously. As I'll want access later to the right hand side, to the loo roll holder mechanism etc, maybe I stop the shelves short if I go with battens on the wall and slats? Rolling seems most sensible? Easy to move out to access everything else? SWMBO insistent that the linen bin presents width wise when the door is open: If I put the water softener in the cupboard that'll have to go width wise...not then easy to access itself: -
Failure! ? I found it like this. Presume somebody leant on placed something a bit heavy on the keyboard. Maybe I could have designed in radiused internal corners where the "stub axles" meet the main part. Similarly maybe the axles starting off as square section (my fault) then my paring / sanding them round didn't help.
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I know I could Google it but???
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I don't tbh even know if it has a bottom or is open to the dirt below, nor whether there is an outlet pipe of any sort. Suspecting not. No idea of the size / capacity either. I only just found it this year.
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Thanks. Way back on here someone I'm sure suggested that if I used a cement based mortar it wouldn't breath / flex around the flints. In fact as it set it might shrink away from the flints leaving them to almost rattle in pockets. This in turn could lead to water seeping in between the flint and mortar. Obviously really keen to avoid this. Does the addition of lime guard against thus or should it be a pure lime mix? As in does the workability and plasticising effort carry on to the "set" mortar? Cheers
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The bricks are laid with 4:1 builders sand / opc. Was thinking the lime mortar would contrast anyway. Now you've got me thinking that maybe I should try and match the colour: This stuff was what I was going to use, B&Q Tonbridge Wells appear to stock it: https://www.diy.com/departments/blue-circle-hydrated-lime-25kg-bag/35712_BQ.prd? This is the text on the link. Is the 1:1:5 or 6 mix any use for what I want to do do you reckon? Cheers. Blue Circle Hydralime is a hydrated lime used for increased plasticity & cohesiveness in cement, mortars & renders Preparation: 1 part Portland cement, 1 part hydralime & 5 to 6 parts sand Features and Benefits Blue Circle Hydralime is a hydrated lime used for increased plasticity & cohesiveness in cement, mortars & renders Fine, white, dry powder which lightens and brightens mortars A high calcium, non hydraulic, hydrated lime Makes floating renders and pointing mortars easier Hydralime can be used for traditional nominal mixes for mortars and renders in conjunction with standard Portland based cements or in lime-washes without cement
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Going to have to ask around the neighbours to get someone trustworthy / reliable.
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As is the q in snooker.
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Update: WC backing up. Not good. Lifted the lid on the pit. About 2' from the top. Clearly way over the inlet (which I now can't even see). Not even worth rodding though I imagine I'll try tomorrow. Really, really, really pi$$ed off madam wouldn't pay to empty it back in the Summer. We'll have to now!
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Wtf? Has your dealer got a sale on? ?
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Me, me!
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Scutch hammer I presume: https://www.toolstation.com/scutch-hammer/p12101? Edit: I've ordered the one from Toolstation.
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If you want quiet try 400mm timber I joists filled with Icynene like @PeterStarck's. Weird when you're used to a leaky, draughty old house. Felt like it was hermetically sealed but in a good way. Draught free, warm, ultra quiet but with fresh air.
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@mvincentd, ref your question on @nod's thread about the flint. Didn't even know a glint guillotine existed! I'll be shaping them myself. To that end I bought a set of copper boppers aforementioned. I virtually destroyed the largest last night within about ten mins of getting it out of the packing! Think you have to identify a concave surface at which to strike but I think I need a bigger striking tool. A cross between an ice pick but with the weight and width of a club hammer So far I'm just making flakes and chips! ?
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There's a few Porsches been done over on the fullychargedshow on YouTube.
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I have a house to rebuild, problem is starting and finishing the big things before I am allowed to play with my classic cars.
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I've got 12 crates of flints need knapping! ?
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NHL? ... hydraulic lime? I want a mix where I can trowel it in then lay / push my flints in then do another course. What do you reckon. This is laying rather than pointing. Cheers.
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I actually split a good mortar gun trying to put a sharp sand / cement mix through it. Cracked the barrel. Durgun I think it is. Still in use just heavily bandaged with tape.
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Reclaimed brick – removing mortar effectively
Onoff replied to JackOrion's topic in Bricklaying, Blockwork & Mortar
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Reclaimed brick – removing mortar effectively
Onoff replied to JackOrion's topic in Bricklaying, Blockwork & Mortar
I'd stack them one against the other on the floor with the wanted faces pointing upward and try a pressure washer. I reused a few 1860 something ones I took off the chimney of my first house. Got told once they would use the crap bricks on the stack.
