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Everything posted by Onoff
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Have you got yours yet? I'm in the market for a couple.
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What does it need, a gland in from one panel and a gland out to the next? Then a couple of suitably rated 2 terminal connector blocks? Plenty of hinged abs enclosures similar on the bay. http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemDescV4&item=312831371539&category=42886&pm=1&ds=0&t=1572852738000&ver=0 Could you I wonder incorporate a small volt meter in each? Maybe then a couple of 3 terminal blocks instead of 2. In/out/meter + and in/out/meter negative. I'd put a small travel case type padlock on each. (I know nothing btw about pv). Edit: Sorry a bit lost, one box is it you want or multiple boxes, one between each panel in series?
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Always the pretty little ones that are the real killers! The niece's diminutive black she cat will bring home fully grown rabbits equal or bigger in size than she is. Quite impressive seeing it take it's prey off the ground 4 or five feet up the wall to a barn window.
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Worth having a 3P connection for a (future) super fast EV charger?
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Can't remember if it was me who linked it. Not tried it. The phosphoric acid I've been playing with is 40% so a bit higher than your link that is only 8%. Honestly, keeping the citic acid heated made for super rapid derusting. All the acids don't forget encompass the part and get in all the nooks and crannies. Electrolysis is line of sight.
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I'd go citric acid tbh or spend out on some Deox-C. Less dangerous if you get a splash in the face for a start. Phosphoric acid in my experience just converts the rust to a stable black oxide. It's great though for treating the flash rust you get after the part comes out of the citric acid bath and been rinsed/dried.
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There's probably good reason smoke and CO2 alarms "protrude", to do I imagine with air/smoke flow. Having them "flush" could cost you seconds when it counts.
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The PLA the white one is printed from melts around 180-220degC from what I've read. It has though a "glass transition temperature" of 60-65degC which I think is when it starts to go from "floppy" to solid so I don't think it would be any use as a stat housing. Might be wrong! More to it than that like how it's printed; layer thickness, fill %age, layer orientation. All can affect strength. 3D scanning, I wish! No, I just measured it up with my trusty, non digital, Mauser vernier caliper and drew on AutoCAD. Lots of people playing with 3D scanners out there, some where you strap your smart phone on to act as the camera. Some use a turntable. A search on YouTube brings up things like this:
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Recess shown on the blue CAD model on the previous page. Halfway up the pin.
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Better results by setting the Z seam alignment to random. Takes a little longer to print though. Next to try it horizontal as suggested above:
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With the car in pieces thought we'd print some new trim clips for the wheel arch liners. CAD done by me then handed over for printing. Original 2 piece part: Trying the "pin" first. Not too good, any ideas? Seems as it increases in height it's still too "fluid" to resist the lateral force of the hot end as it extrudes the filament. Been experimenting with slowing things down.
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I think this is where function should override form. Think of what it's doing! Just fit Aico and be done with it.
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Kiwi girls? They're alright.
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I remember over 30 years ago a Kiwi girl on her first visit here being astounded/ disgusted that we used washing up bowls in the UK.
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Try some Barkeepers Friend.
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Not bad. Printed with speed in mind rather than anything else. Absolutely useless on the car as it would melt! ?
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Welcome. It helps greatly if you both have the same vision and realisation of the benefits of a well insulated home with low energy requirements. Worth visiting completed ones.
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They fine you for driving on the pavement or come and erect bollards whilst your car is parked so you can't get off. https://www.express.co.uk/life-style/cars/1005838/parking-driveway-dropped-kerb-pavement-fine-bill/amp
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Neighbouring submarine that.
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Just send it back if you can't get on with it...like all the others! ?
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I should add I'm fresh out of the pub so feeling unusuallly benevolent.
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Luckily I'd never take the pi$$. It really is a "manual" stud finder. Magnet picks up on steel screws / nail heads. When it tilts perpendicular you're bang on the nail. Then pencil the two vees and in the middle is theoretically the centre of the stud. Assumes of course they originally banged the nails in on the centre line... Stanley do something very similar.
