Onoff

Erm...going back to your first post you had a 4 gang switch with one spare. You wanted to use the spare way to switch another light? Pick a make, MK or Varilight. Buy a 4 gang face plate. For this other light you want to switch put in a wireless grid switch. No wires on the back, nothing to connect, just clip it in (this is an MK one): Then for this new light you want to switch, you site a Quinetic receiver in the L & N supply to it. The receiver can be up in the ceiling or anywhere else. Nowhere you can jump in? Something like this. It literally jumps into the L&N going to the light. This is a standard receiver or you can use a dimming one. (The little white wire is the aerial): Pair them up and when you press the switch above the light goes on or off. That leaves 3 existing switches. These are the ones wired in. Replace them with "traditional" MK grid switches, like one of these depending on whether it's 1 or 2 way: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Wiring_Accessories_Menu_Index/A_White_All/Grid_System/Grid_System_3/index.html So all switches match but one is wireless and paired with the remote receiver. So why the worry over the lack of neutral in the back box?

I wouldn't be told (to get a pro in) and am pretty happy with how my attempt at a ceiling and half wall came out. I'd do it again. I just followed this bloke's 4 parter on YouTube:

You mean "out in the elements"! ? Good on her.

Have you got yours yet? I'm in the market for a couple.

What does it need, a gland in from one panel and a gland out to the next? Then a couple of suitably rated 2 terminal connector blocks? Plenty of hinged abs enclosures similar on the bay. http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemDescV4&item=312831371539&category=42886&pm=1&ds=0&t=1572852738000&ver=0 Could you I wonder incorporate a small volt meter in each? Maybe then a couple of 3 terminal blocks instead of 2. In/out/meter + and in/out/meter negative. I'd put a small travel case type padlock on each. (I know nothing btw about pv). Edit: Sorry a bit lost, one box is it you want or multiple boxes, one between each panel in series?

Like this maybe:

Always the pretty little ones that are the real killers! The niece's diminutive black she cat will bring home fully grown rabbits equal or bigger in size than she is. Quite impressive seeing it take it's prey off the ground 4 or five feet up the wall to a barn window.

Worth having a 3P connection for a (future) super fast EV charger?

Can't remember if it was me who linked it. Not tried it. The phosphoric acid I've been playing with is 40% so a bit higher than your link that is only 8%. Honestly, keeping the citic acid heated made for super rapid derusting. All the acids don't forget encompass the part and get in all the nooks and crannies. Electrolysis is line of sight.

I'd go citric acid tbh or spend out on some Deox-C. Less dangerous if you get a splash in the face for a start. Phosphoric acid in my experience just converts the rust to a stable black oxide. It's great though for treating the flash rust you get after the part comes out of the citric acid bath and been rinsed/dried.

There's probably good reason smoke and CO2 alarms "protrude", to do I imagine with air/smoke flow. Having them "flush" could cost you seconds when it counts.

The PLA the white one is printed from melts around 180-220degC from what I've read. It has though a "glass transition temperature" of 60-65degC which I think is when it starts to go from "floppy" to solid so I don't think it would be any use as a stat housing. Might be wrong! More to it than that like how it's printed; layer thickness, fill %age, layer orientation. All can affect strength. 3D scanning, I wish! No, I just measured it up with my trusty, non digital, Mauser vernier caliper and drew on AutoCAD. Lots of people playing with 3D scanners out there, some where you strap your smart phone on to act as the camera. Some use a turntable. A search on YouTube brings up things like this:

Recess shown on the blue CAD model on the previous page. Halfway up the pin.

Better results by setting the Z seam alignment to random. Takes a little longer to print though. Next to try it horizontal as suggested above:

It doesn't seem to like the recess halfway up the shaft for some reason. Throws it off all wobbly:

With the car in pieces thought we'd print some new trim clips for the wheel arch liners. CAD done by me then handed over for printing. Original 2 piece part: Trying the "pin" first. Not too good, any ideas? Seems as it increases in height it's still too "fluid" to resist the lateral force of the hot end as it extrudes the filament. Been experimenting with slowing things down.

I think this is where function should override form. Think of what it's doing! Just fit Aico and be done with it.

Kiwi girls? They're alright.

I remember over 30 years ago a Kiwi girl on her first visit here being astounded/ disgusted that we used washing up bowls in the UK.

Try some Barkeepers Friend.

Not bad. Printed with speed in mind rather than anything else. Absolutely useless on the car as it would melt! ?

Welcome. It helps greatly if you both have the same vision and realisation of the benefits of a well insulated home with low energy requirements. Worth visiting completed ones.

Thought I'd copy the thermostat housing I've just taken off the wife's car...as you do:

They fine you for driving on the pavement or come and erect bollards whilst your car is parked so you can't get off. https://www.express.co.uk/life-style/cars/1005838/parking-driveway-dropped-kerb-pavement-fine-bill/amp

Neighbouring submarine that.