Onoff

Not bad. Printed with speed in mind rather than anything else. Absolutely useless on the car as it would melt! ?

Welcome. It helps greatly if you both have the same vision and realisation of the benefits of a well insulated home with low energy requirements. Worth visiting completed ones.

Thought I'd copy the thermostat housing I've just taken off the wife's car...as you do:

They fine you for driving on the pavement or come and erect bollards whilst your car is parked so you can't get off. https://www.express.co.uk/life-style/cars/1005838/parking-driveway-dropped-kerb-pavement-fine-bill/amp

Neighbouring submarine that.

Just send it back if you can't get on with it...like all the others! ?

I should add I'm fresh out of the pub so feeling unusuallly benevolent.

Luckily I'd never take the pi$$. It really is a "manual" stud finder. Magnet picks up on steel screws / nail heads. When it tilts perpendicular you're bang on the nail. Then pencil the two vees and in the middle is theoretically the centre of the stud. Assumes of course they originally banged the nails in on the centre line... Stanley do something very similar.

You've lost weight!

At least I can have a proper sh!t. ?

Be interesting to see a tear down of one of these clones to see if it really is a "clone" or just a lookalike shell housing different internals. (It'd be nice if Makita spares fitted).

Sound block board is 15/16mm. You'd lose 5 - 7mm. You can btw get sound absorbing/ deadening curtains.

Alleged 90Nm bare drill for £42.99 that takes Makita batteries: https://m.banggood.com/18V-3-In-1-Cordless-Impact-Drill-2-Speed-Rechargable-Electric-Screwdriver-Drill-Li-Ion-Battery-Adapted-to-Makita-Battery-p-1602641.html?

If you are boarding out inside then you could could use the blue, sound block plasterboard. It's a bit thicker and heavier than the normal stuff.

His neighbours complain ref his woodworking router noise I think?

It's adhering fine to the bed now. This one looks the part but it's M? ? Think he was messing with the scale. Doesn't screw together either, in fact I think the helix angle is different on each bit. Never mind he's having fun. The knurling's pretty good:

Pity they don't actually screw together! ?

Finally, a use for this! ?

Another test piece. The fuzziness is the camera not focusing too well.

Sorry, don't know.

Just finished another keyboard foot at 100% infill, 50mm/s, 0.2mm layer in PLA. It's fine but not as sharp as the resin one Jeremy did imo still. Give my boy his due he's picked up Cura and Blender in an afternoon and is slicing and dicing 3D models as I write this.

So far here using 25% infill and a print speed of 50mm/s with 0.2 layer height. Just done the keyboard foot and your resin one has much sharper edges and the infill is "complete" as in no discernible striations. It's just "sharper". Trying now 50% infill, 50mm/s Then 25% infill, 40mm/s Just playing really!

First two times he used generic, A4, "matt" inkjet printing paper, 0.1mm thick to level the bed. The owl pair didn't stick and the switch piece came out naff. Just used the glossy 0.1mm piece of A4 that came with the printer and looking much better. A little flash on the underside. Actually looks better than the photo.

I did read somewhere, maybe it was @Temp mentioned it, that some put masking tape on the bed. Says in the book for this one not to do that. He just tried printing that little switch bit you did for me but it looked dog rough ? What fill percentage did you use? At the moment the printer is sat on the dining room table and as it prints you can the vibration through the table. I wonder if that's an issue? Only took 1m25s though!

Thanks. Trying the test model, a "pair of owls" and he set it running and went off (to download Cura). I noticed that as it was printing the whole print was moving where it hadn't stuck to the bed I guess. This print was square to the bed then "slipped" like this. Just cleaned the bed with IPA and trying again but I reckon it's a bed level issue.