Onoff

1st, 2nd & 3rd place: Longest Bathroom Build 202* *tba

Not for long if parking a wet car in there! I'd go dpm and council slabs. Quite how level they would be looking at that slab... Maybe those interlocking garage mats?

Can't you just buy more swa and resin etc joint it?

We know. Now water's pi$$ing in through the back and he's trying to mitigate it.

What size SWA? How many cores? The nearest you'll get to maintenance free is take the swa and t&e into an adaptable box and use Wagos. The earth flylead from the Piranha nut maintains earth continuity to the actual armour of the swa. The screws there though mean it's not mf even though the L&N would be deemed so.

I went a tad higher here in keeping with some other people on here who came back in my thread. We're all pretty tall in this house anyway:

Page 20 of my mega thread. The man he say 425mm from FFL to top of seat as in bit your bum is in contact with.

How is the garage clad? If say horizontal boards you could drop in a 3 sided edpm or similar waterproof membrane. Btw, if your slab has no dpm is the timber frame sat straight on the potentially damp concrete or is there a dpc under the sole plate? Depends to some extent how free draining the ground is...

I try to please.

Only guessing but thinking there is no DPM under that slab?

Dig a path around the garage?

You might even need a continuous waterproof strip around 3 sides that sits 6" above ground level and projects down the sides of the main slab. Needless to say any cladding should be 6" above ground. Got any pictures?

Probably you need to look at digging out behind and maybe the sides and making a French drain. If considered beforehand then perhaps waterproof concrete upstand off of the slab but it really needs to be homogenous or you're getting into water bar territory. Then there's membranes. You're getting into the realms of underground houses.

I reckon for squareness you might be better with a Bosch or Milwaukee "wave" blade in a jigsaw. Holding a multitool square over 100mm deep cut...good luck! Anything "powered" will also create more dust I imagine. I still like the pink Celotex saw held against a length of square timber. Gives a pretty square cut tbh.

The one I made with kanthal/nichrome wire worked well enough / got hot enough to burn through the foil either side as well as the pir. Had issues with it keep breaking though. It's much harder to cut thru than eps. Thin wire offers lower mechanical resistance but obviously less strength. The psu which was just a wall watt crapped out in the end.

Thought you didn't like push fit?

Nothing says you're about to enter a BDSM dungeon like a nice door and sticky fingerprint pad!

Cutting square is the key imo. A bfo table saw with dust extraction is good.

I'd have wanted a matching hand sanitizer dispenser for that sort of money.

Maybe wrap it in something first (thick cardboard?) or sleeve it before concreting so you easily slide it through the concrete block later rather than having to smash the block up.

Pssst! Anyone wanna buy a roll of red and black 2.5 T&E? Got up to 10mm. Just ignore that the sheath on some is disintegrating. Cheaper than a roll of loo paper! ?

Because it can't flex with ground movements. Whereas push fit can.

All you need to know here. Page 9 & 10 perhaps most pertinent: Part-P-Approved-Document-2013-England (1).pdf

Well worth getting yourself a copy of this. https://shop.theiet.org/electrician-s-guide-to-the-building-regulations-5th-edition Same price at the NICEIC shop.

Leccy wholesalers will do the plastic coated stuff.