Onoff

Go and buy some Thermahoods. Insulation goes straight over the top. Loads of space for the light fitting. https://www.thermahood.com/ https://www.amazon.co.uk/Thermahood-Downlighter-Ceiling-Spotlights-Efficiency/dp/B077QHXGW1/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?

https://www.andersonheating-air.com/daikin-heat-pump-troubleshooting/

You can get tubular ones you could cut with a pipe cutter.

You'll remove the wc before you tank the floor I assume or does it sit raised up slightly?

I did a dry run, positioned the sink on the pedestal and sorted the solvent weld waste before I boarded and tiled the wall. I had to guess the floor tile height. Thought I'd be spot on. I wasn't! Also the standard McAlpine siphon trap clashed with the waste. I bought a second telescopic McAlpine waste and made one out of two i.e a telescopic, anti siphon trap! Telescopic as @PeterW says should account for any discrepancies!

Here you go. I'm mulling, this year, to level the strip of land up the side of the house to make it useable. (Covered storage cum a future access platform the length of the bungalow should I ever convert to gable ends). Neighbour offered the other day to dig it up (with his digger) so I can replace the clay drains down to the cess pool etc. Its not this bad now but not far off! Not visible are old building footings that the clay drains run through. I've tried hand digging and Kango'ing but its a bit too much for me. I found the cess pool in the trees beyond the jumbo bags:

Yep. I've found it now though. Had too as it was seriously blocked last Summer. Going to borrow works £5k drain cam sometime to inspect the clay pipe runs.

Well done. Pop along to the Horse & Groom for a celebratory pint!

Seems I have a door fetish. I have now gotten 4 upvc doors with frame. 3 bought and 1 a freebie. Just came up at the right price. I have homes for 3. 4th one I might sell on or build a garden room around it! ? Where can I buy Compriband or similar in small quantities i.e enough to do a single door? Maybe it goes by another name? Cheers

I can't imagine where Jose lives the temperature drops that low outside ever! ? I think his scissor lift is pretty cool. The handle mech, only a length of studding. Would need some bits of tube too and a few tack welds. That tape is fine. You don't have to vcl but I would, it's so cheap to do.

Worst case you lift a board wrong or it slips and breaks over your head. Rite of passage for the DIYer! ? You can generally make use of the two broken bits somewhere! Just think how many "skills" were daunting for you when you started the kitchen. You had a go and learnt in the process with a very good looking end result. ? SQUARENESS! When you do your ceiling boards the whole room may not be 100% dead square on plan. Your plasterboards are dead square. Say you are fitting this as your first board. It can be a kick in the nuts to struggle lifting it up to find doesn't touch where it should! Then to struggle to measure how much needs to be trimmed. Two people AND some sort of support is handy. Don't underestimate how knackering it is holding a board above your head with one hand trying faff with a tape measure with the other! Pretty sure seasoned plasterers have all sorts of long term neck and shoulder issues. The idea is that first board fits tight against your double header on the long and short sides. On the left hand end the board wants to finish on the halfway line of the under side of whatever posi joist makes best use of the 2400mm long board. If it fits tight against the double headers on both sides then there's less gap for draughts etc and the subsequent wall plasterboards will support better the ceiling board. It might mean trimming both long and short sides to fit to ensure this. All depends how square the room is. This is where the board lifter "robot" as you called mine is dead handy. You could screw some wood screws horizontally into the header on the short end. Two of you then lift the board and poke the short end so as supported by the temporary screws. One then supports the board with a near fitting wooden T bar. The other measures up. Or screw a second T bar / horizontal batten to the wall studs to take the short end ... Many ways to skin next door's cat! Plenty of mad ideas on diy "dry wall" and plasterboard lifters on YouTube. I like this one. You could drive that with a cordless drill: Won't you end up though paying your electrician mate more than buying a board lifter and doing it on your own? For example: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pro-11FT-Drywall-Hoist-Lift-Plasterboard-Panel-Sheet-Board-Lifter-Tool-Jack-UK/193368916963? You can flog it afterwards and make half your money or more back.

This sort of thing. Still from a YouTube vid. Bloke's doing it on this own. He's standing on a hop up of some sort. T bars are made to such a height so they "wedge" near vertical. Best to have two people. It's a bitch when on your own and a T bar slips and falls and the board comes crashing down. Loads of ways to do it. Watch YouTube vids!

Yes. I used the cheap stuff as per the Screwfix link I gave. Cuts down the draughts via any slight gaps between pir and studs you may have missed. A cheapo staple gun is handy too. I have two from Lidl.

Perfectly feasible. Making up a wooden T bar (or two) can help. Just YouTube "plasterboarding a ceiling". Lots of videos.

If you were able to drill those concrete beams you could have resin anchored the long studs in.

Stick some mock wheels and a tow bar on it? ? A bit of decking, some strategically placed potted conifers, a few down lights...

+1 on the Leyland Super Leytex as recommended on here. Diamond matt over that. I also used Easifill after the Leytex for any imperfections...only because my plastering is less than perfect.

Known as a "split load board". The red switch is the main double pole switch that switches both incoming live and neutral. Next to it is the 1st RCD (residual current device) that provides earth leakage protection to the circuits on the 4 circuit breakers (with space to add another future circuit). The circuit breakers provides over current and short circuit protection to each circuit. The 2nd RCD protects the last 5 circuit breakers in the same vein as above. The circuits are split so that for instance if downstairs lights go off, upstairs lights should remain on. Same with sockets. Of course if you have an earth leakage fault on any circuit protected by that particular RCD all those circuits lose power. The "best" way is to have all circuits on their own RCBO so a fault on one circuit only affects that.

I like lying in the bath with the lights dimmed, a beer and some tunes from the ceiling speakers. I used a Quinetic (the grey square) wireless switch literally within arms reach of lying in the bath so I can dim / turn off the down lights and control the pocket / mood lighting. I say I like doing this, there's barely enough HW capacity to fill the bath or the kids have used it all having showers! ? (The led strip is on the pi$$ in the pic above).

The BCO bit was tongue in cheek! ?

What's a b...c...o?

When I did my ceiling I foil taped all the joints. When I put the boards up I laid the vcl on top then just lifted up with the board lifter:

Can I ask why it took you so long to complete?

Right or wrong this is what I did. Seems to guarantee no draughts. I used every bit of pir up and foamed it in. Then used Screwfix vcl and silver taped the joins. https://www.screwfix.com/p/capital-valley-plastics-ltd-vapour-barrier-green-300ga-20-x-2-5m/12869?

Maybe some sort of IQ test?