Onoff

Think about it, there's a precedent here... You can ask shed load of questions & the end result will look really good.

Arched door? You could make that and the frame I'm sure.

Well... The revised/reprinted Makita to Ferrex adapter works...'ish.First mistake was not tinning the copper blades prior to inserting them into the plastic. I put too much heat on one of the blades and it "sunk" into the print. Tbh that's just aesthetics.In use...the hedge trimmer works fine...for about 2 seconds then stops. Release & pull the front handle again and you get another 2 seconds. Makita (clone) battery is fine and charged. I tried 2 3Ah batteries, then 2 5Ah, same issue. It's actually useable as in you cut on one pass, stop, then go again. I wonder why.....some intelligence in the tool or battery? The hedge trimmer manual say to only use Ferrex 20V 2Ah or Ferrex 20/40V 2.5Ah batteries.

Isn't it that Sumamp moved the goalposts? They simply no longer do the models the happy early adopters had. Replaced by less flexible kit.

This is a good article from back in 2016 if you have access to The Times online: https://www.thetimes.co.uk/article/tiny-homes-become-the-next-big-thing-smnj8ns9t Of late the FT covered the issue: https://www.ft.com/content/6276e4b2-41c6-11ea-a879-e56a76ed3e8a

If I had those 3 (free) ST panels up on my roof now what would HW be costing me? Zero I'm guessing. I think you have to change the glycol in there every few years though? Hell, even my DIY ST system produced amazing results for an outlay of zero. Low tech compared to PV I appreciate but ST to me still seems a bit of a win win. @scottishjohn?

The right place to do them...

Along with a small gauge funicular railway for those tricky sites?

Erm...you just have! ?

Get on Pinterest for ideas.

Make the treads as steel trays then inlay with timber.

Just make it up as you go along like I do....

What are your joist spacings, 400, 600mm? At 400 you'd probably want to take a chunk out of the joists and add trimmers. Something like in this guide: https://www.loftshop.co.uk/about/Lofty-Ideas/How-to-install-a-loft-ladder Yours aren't "normal" joist are they from memory? You can buy ready made hatches that are insulated and even have a rubber seal as a nod to minimising heat loss.

The Dungeon Master's pedalling his wares again!

I DON'T BELIEVE IT! Somehow I've managed to design this "Mak2Fer" adapter above, so the + & - terminals are on opposite sides! Spin the Makita battery through 180deg on the model and it works but then you couldn't slide the battery in without making the adapter a lot longer and having it stick out the back. Back to the drawing board for some crossover action!  As I'm never going to buy a Ferrex battery and charger it would probably be quicker to rewire the tool itself.  But where's the fun in that? It'll be something on these line's, a dog legged arrangement to swap the polarity. These renderings are of an early Ferrex to Bosch adapter I'm working on. I've now thought of something a bit more elegant and might use 10mm2 copper wire to save on copper strip.

Is that a big lump of crud I see in there? Hard water scale etc maybe. The flush tube maybe not seating properly. It's supposed to drop down and seal after flushing. Removal and refitting might be all it needs.

Mak2Fer adapter. Just waiting for some 1mm copper sheet to turn up so I can make battery connectors: I forgot to emboss MAK2FER on the sides!

Traditionally, concrete around steel provides an alkaline, protective environment. Over the years CO2 and moisture seep seep in and turn it acidic. There's some weird reactions set up, with silica in the various aggregates used, that accelerate the rusting of the steel, which expands and can crack the concrete. There's various coating that can be applied from Thompsons Water Seal to Sika FerroGard. The later is used extensively to protect historic concrete structures. Similar has been used to save some of the 1930s art deco buildings.

Just remember cable, pipe etc has it's own lay. Don't fight against it. I usually make a hoop the diameter you want and cable tie it. You can then coil it up by turning the "hoop" within the internal corner formed by two walls. Get an assistant to feed the pipd to you as you coil it, taking out the twist as you go.

Tastes like lager coming up! ?

Good feeling, pleased for you? Two bottles of Henry Westons Vintage Cider at 8.2% on a hot day like this and your spatial awareness might become a tad impaired. (Ask me how I know). Not the time to be reconsidering handrail when you're looking up at the sky at a funny angle wondering how you got there! ? On a serious note...I wonder how you would stand if say a neighbour's kid crept in to play on the thing and fell off, ditto a visitor.

This is an M10 coach bolt in stainless steel. See the square section on the shank, under the head? You drill a 10mm hole then tap the bolt home. The square wedges in the round hole and stops it turning whilst you wind the nut on. The one above has makers marks on the head but you can get them without. I used them on my front gate. Gives nice pinpoints of light against the black (imo). If using bright zinc plated coach bolts you can coat the shaft in grease where it passes through the wood.

Yes the specific stuff for sticking boards is excellent. I've used it. Does what it says on the tin. Thought you didn't want to buy anything else and use that 1/2 can up?

Could even project the boards and route a drip channel...