Onoff

Along with a small gauge funicular railway for those tricky sites?

Erm...you just have! ?

Get on Pinterest for ideas.

Make the treads as steel trays then inlay with timber.

Just make it up as you go along like I do....

What are your joist spacings, 400, 600mm? At 400 you'd probably want to take a chunk out of the joists and add trimmers. Something like in this guide: https://www.loftshop.co.uk/about/Lofty-Ideas/How-to-install-a-loft-ladder Yours aren't "normal" joist are they from memory? You can buy ready made hatches that are insulated and even have a rubber seal as a nod to minimising heat loss.

The Dungeon Master's pedalling his wares again!

I DON'T BELIEVE IT! Somehow I've managed to design this "Mak2Fer" adapter above, so the + & - terminals are on opposite sides! Spin the Makita battery through 180deg on the model and it works but then you couldn't slide the battery in without making the adapter a lot longer and having it stick out the back. Back to the drawing board for some crossover action!  As I'm never going to buy a Ferrex battery and charger it would probably be quicker to rewire the tool itself.  But where's the fun in that? It'll be something on these line's, a dog legged arrangement to swap the polarity. These renderings are of an early Ferrex to Bosch adapter I'm working on. I've now thought of something a bit more elegant and might use 10mm2 copper wire to save on copper strip.

Is that a big lump of crud I see in there? Hard water scale etc maybe. The flush tube maybe not seating properly. It's supposed to drop down and seal after flushing. Removal and refitting might be all it needs.

Mak2Fer adapter. Just waiting for some 1mm copper sheet to turn up so I can make battery connectors: I forgot to emboss MAK2FER on the sides!

Traditionally, concrete around steel provides an alkaline, protective environment. Over the years CO2 and moisture seep seep in and turn it acidic. There's some weird reactions set up, with silica in the various aggregates used, that accelerate the rusting of the steel, which expands and can crack the concrete. There's various coating that can be applied from Thompsons Water Seal to Sika FerroGard. The later is used extensively to protect historic concrete structures. Similar has been used to save some of the 1930s art deco buildings.

Just remember cable, pipe etc has it's own lay. Don't fight against it. I usually make a hoop the diameter you want and cable tie it. You can then coil it up by turning the "hoop" within the internal corner formed by two walls. Get an assistant to feed the pipd to you as you coil it, taking out the twist as you go.

Tastes like lager coming up! ?

Good feeling, pleased for you? Two bottles of Henry Westons Vintage Cider at 8.2% on a hot day like this and your spatial awareness might become a tad impaired. (Ask me how I know). Not the time to be reconsidering handrail when you're looking up at the sky at a funny angle wondering how you got there! ? On a serious note...I wonder how you would stand if say a neighbour's kid crept in to play on the thing and fell off, ditto a visitor.

This is an M10 coach bolt in stainless steel. See the square section on the shank, under the head? You drill a 10mm hole then tap the bolt home. The square wedges in the round hole and stops it turning whilst you wind the nut on. The one above has makers marks on the head but you can get them without. I used them on my front gate. Gives nice pinpoints of light against the black (imo). If using bright zinc plated coach bolts you can coat the shaft in grease where it passes through the wood.

Yes the specific stuff for sticking boards is excellent. I've used it. Does what it says on the tin. Thought you didn't want to buy anything else and use that 1/2 can up?

Could even project the boards and route a drip channel...

You could cut a through housing into the post (with your router) to go over the projecting board or nibble a bit out of the board to go around the post.

Are the joints noisy then? Look carefully. If it's been repainted they might have filled up the grease nipple hole with paint. Could just be a phosphor bronze bush designed to not need any lube. It's not as if its high revving. Most of the pivots don't even go thru 360deg. Have you called that contact I gave you yet?

Absolutely loving the gabion columns. The filled with logs idea, cracking. Money no object I'd have an arched gabion made up from galvanised walkway. Think Stargate...(with rats ? ) I might enquire of my fabricator just how much he'd charge for some plain rectangular columns that could be log filled.

Soudal low exp will fix boards to that as long as you hold the boards in place with something. Blocks, bags of sand etc. gas bottle whatever.

Position your boards. Place a sacrificial lump of timber on top and welt with a club hammer over where the hanger is. Flip over and route out a bit where the indent is of the joist hanger. Simples.

Yes you can save on them now only to see them rot and replace them later! I'm always amazed how when you pull a "Screwfix Gold Screw" out of external timber after not too long it's as rusty as. However...why not just use what you've got and remember to replace later on when you've a few more quid.

...in Brighton...