Onoff

You need to start selling them Cream of Tartar! ? Works a treat to slow plaster down. Great for slow coach novices like me

I think gas fridges were common in the 30s.

Really liking this.

Pah! 18V is so yesterday! https://www.makitauk.com/products/new-products?

My Mum was a seamstress. I used to watch in awe as she sewed on her machines. The best bit was in the late 70s when thd local yummy mummys would come round for fittings for evening dresses etc. ? Edit: Nearly as good as the Kays Catalogue...

I think that was mainly where the horizontal "arm" exits at the top? These gaps will be filled with foam, round glazing strip then probably have a 2-piece cover plate. Ref the whole thing moving...with hindsight I could have glued strips of old HV mat onto the 100x100 box then infilled. I'll just have to risk the Tesco/DPD/kid just passed their test hitting it! I suppose that means I can get on with the wiring and flints...

Thinking about getting on with my pillars. Do I really need to infill them?

Want me to pop round? ? On a serious note when I was looking at making a biogas rig they reckoned 50/50 green to brown with occasional "nitrates" added. Let's just say easier for blokes to add nitrates! My Gurkha friends all grew up with rudimentary biogas plants for cooking and gas lighting back in Nepal and confirmed this. Buffalo there supplied the "brown".

Some ideas here: https://www.edecks.co.uk/m/dept/29/Handrail-Systems The rope handrail up the spiral stairs I did on the kids treehouse. Just some Tubeclamp up top: (No, I've never finished it!) Personally I'd have two horizontal ropes then a wide top rail with routed in beer bottle holders / ash tray etc so you could lean/rest on it and contemplate your handiwork! ?

Water supply back in the day would have maybe come in from above to an overhead cistern?

It does work and cuts like the proverbial knife through butter. There's initial, physical resistance getting the wire into the edges of the foil facing. I was only cutting 25 and 50mm as a test. I experimented a while back making one with Kanthal / nichrome wire and a random wall wart for power. The wire kept snapping. Not sure because of over heating, physical stress or a bit of both. The psu failed eventually and I got bored as usual... Started with a 12vdc 500mA psu and finished with a 830mA one (that died). 0.35mm dia Kanthal wire some 150mm long formed the cutting element to start with. There was some maths behind it. The radio control forum boys reckon a figure around 50W/m I think using 0.5mm dia wire for cutting polystyrene. As you apply power the heated wire goes limp immediately through expansion. I added a tensioning spring to my effort. From another forum it appears I ended up with this on the 12VDC 830mA psu: "This time I tried 0.5mm dia Kanthal which has a resistance of 7.23 Ohms/m. So a 150mm element this time had a resistance of 1.08 Ohms" Now consigned to the "must salvage the screws and bin" pile. Guitar string some use I believe...

The top layer of green mineral just peeled off the.....green mineral underneath. WTF do it like that? Quick video after peeling all the loose stuff off and launching it into the front garden: Temporary repair whilst I gather my thoughts! ? I must have cut that DPM for some reason...it was wider when I used it the other side... I'll add some more weight tomorrow.

Must bother you the writing's the opposite way on different boards!

I must admit I just veed the pir, foamed it, cut flush and foil taped over. Respect.

Sad git! ?

Top end under the balcony corner...front bit does half the work. Inside bit shares the work & keeps it all there. Bottom resting on the galv shoe just keeps it up a bit out of the dirt. I'm sure it'll look the dogs danglies when done. You can relax on that deck with a beer!

My way you could likely wedge it in with no screws! Aesthetics & engineering are better all round. Flush etc. Do it Peter's way if you want Zoot. Screw another bit of 3x3 on top ofvthd first and it'll match the chunky verticals

Touch n Go, shampoo for the terminally ill! Gotta love Viz!

Just a random thought...do you get Kingfishers up there, with the stream etc? Be great to put some bird boxes on those legs maybe?

I'd be (coach)bolting 2 bits of 6x3 together to make that diagonal brace. It'd match the big uprights and the top "notched" detail like below would provide great support and all look flush. At the bottom I'd have it sitting on the edge of the galvanised post base then screw in as Peter says. That's just me though!

For example: http://manuals.gogenielift.com/Parts And Service Manuals/data/Service/Stick Booms/1268489.pdf

I really like the idea of a ditching the pitch but didn't come round to initially. Especially with a hatch in the middle for access. Too many years working on roofs I guess makes it seem "normal"! A low pitch, sloping roof was my very first idea. Until that is I started thinking about having weighted PV trays up there! Just seems super practical to hop up from the inside and wash & maintain the panels, clean the roof off. Yes, edge protection is a big concern especially if I have my lad up there with me. The couple of times I've had him up there I'm shouting at him to stay in the middle/face the edge all the time. If the big "rip off / redo" happens I'll likely screw some cranked, angle iron uprights through the tiles to the vertical corner 4x4s that form the dormer. Think too there is one mid each long elevation. I'd then string a ratchet strap type fall protection strap all around. That's a busman's job for me tbh. Stuff is cheap as chips: https://www.ukratchetstraps.com/collections/fall-protection-straps Might have said before but I managed to get the original dormer extension drawings from the district council. Really, really poor copy as taken off of a microfiche but better than nothing. They gave it to me foc which I thought was decent, they're not all bad! (I did then ask if I could get an electronic copy of a scan of the microfiche to try and blow it up myself but they never came back to me). Very, very roughly starting to cost this up, all prices inc VAT: Desmopol is £213.84 / 25kg. Coverage is 1.5 - 2kg / m2. A tin then would cover 16.67m2 .Area is nom 64m2. So 4 tins, call it £1000.00 Desmoplus Accelerator at 2L per 25kg tin. I need 4 at £68.04 each £272.16 Tecnotop 2C is recommended over the Desmopol to improve UV resistance, traffic resistance (important if i had a central access path and was siting pv trays I imagine). It's £136.08 for 5L. Calculating the coverage; 150-200g/m2 per coat. New boards assuming I use OSB3 T&G. I'd need around 60 8'x2' sheets. 60 x £16.50 (Selco BM) = £990.00. Or non T&G 8'x4' sheets at £21.00 ea so £630.00 (£2500.00 in marine ply). Insulation if I went PIR. Say 30 sheets of 150mm at £60 so around £2000.00. Something like this detail: GRP trims, corners etc, guessing maybe £250 - 300. Facias, soffits, new guttering..... I reckon I could be looking at around £5K to do this "properly". Looks like it'll be that sheet of DPM and some bags of sand then for now! ? It's my dream to be able to not worry about the cost of things and do it the best I can. I could do wonderful things. Oh well, should have done better at school! PV is even further off than redoing the roof! Just ran the sizes through some handy calculators on Rubber4Roofs. EPDM then polyurethane liquid: Just putting off getting up on the roof by doing some CAD for the Makita battery to B&Q "Performance" 18V hedge trimmer, Li-ion conversion. That and SWMBO and the kids are still in bed after a really late night! The bedrooms are below the dormer roof.

Some videos of it on YouTube.

I'd say it's likely superior to the acrylic roof repair compounds. I've tried a number of makes Aquashield, Cromapol, Flexacryl etc. On my crap felt roof (see the other thread) they all give up after a while. It's a yearly redo job. I might be being unfair to them as the substrate they are being put on is basically live! Where's good to buy Desmopol from then?

Some video of the roof: Even the "good" side has loads of ripples in the felt that trap water and dirt: All round the detailing is a bodge: