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Onoff

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Everything posted by Onoff

  1. What's the make up you're saying there then, think he wants pb both sides? Are you meaning 9.5+50+9.5 = "70"
  2. Sod the lot of you, I'm going to sulk in my think tank! ?
  3. My bathroom is a country mile from the hot water cylinder so taps take an age to get hot. I think I've missed the boat to include a pumped return on the sink hot? Up in the loft I've this (unconnected one is now mains cold to the sink). Hot comes from the cylinder many metres away: Drops down, hidden in the wall, (no joints) to this: The WC is currently mains fed. If I'm reading this thread right, I could jump that instead into the hot. Flushing would pull a slug of water in the hot pipe through. Thus when you turn the sink on you've less time to wait for it to become hot? That initial "cold" slug you pull through to flush the WC would otherwise be wasted running the sink until it gets hot. The kids are always complaining the sink is cold when they wash their hands. This might encourage them to actually flush the loo!
  4. I thing it's building regs Part B & E that might apply so fire safety and sound insulation. It's an unusual one you have there I think! @nod, any super thin stud partition systems he could use?
  5. Talk about what lies beneath, you ain't fussy are you? Give as a shout if you want my plumber to come and tidy it up! Saying that I'll swap my supper neat, HIDDEN plumbing for your nice straight tiling with no shadow lines, you can see mine in the dark! ?
  6. Is the finish on this 40mm board important? You can get 40mm thick fire board. Google "40mm fire board". Or make a sandwich of 12.5mm fire resistant plasterboard + 18 mm of ply then another 12.5mm of maybe moisture resistant plasterboard on the bathroom side? 43mm in total.
  7. Still working on the section for my garden room:
  8. I would expect the bearer to be slightly inboard of the outside face of the wall. The bottom of the wall wants some sort of lip down over the edge of the bearer. Any timber you don't want to get wet needs to be at least 150mm above the surrounding ground level.
  9. Walk into bathroom...
  10. Kinky, need you ask?
  11. Not knocking the job by any means, it looks first class.
  12. See the bit at the very top that goes over the ridge and (in this case) is nailed down. It "laps" over the bit underneath it. Wind driven rain can get up that joint:
  13. Dehumidifier?
  14. Reassuringly expensive! ? One of those products that just does what it says on the tin. A mate bought a lot of Spax decking screws direct from Germany albeit pre Brexit. Said they were miles cheaper than in the UK even factoring in shipping: https://www.klokow-gmbh.de/en/ (Pity his deck warped to Hell where he didn't leave any expansion gaps... )
  15. That's the clever bit with the Spax screw design. It goes through the floor board creating a clearance for the thinner, plain shank. The threaded section under the head then bites in and pulls down the board.
  16. It stinks a bit but it really has stayed white for me. A favoured trick on here is to do the sealing around a shower tray etc with clear CT1, working it into whatever gap. Then take of the excess with a baby wipe. You go over this when set with a silicone of your choice which you periodically replace if it gets grubby.
  17. Removing sealant...horrible job! Combination of removing the bulk with a tool something like this, which I have but don't particularly rate: https://www.screwfix.com/p/vitrex-sealant-remover-profile-kit/82791? A glass scraper with removable blade, not the sort that takes a Stanley blade but something like this. FFS don't use on "plastic" but just carefully on tiles. This stuff (it really does work alright): https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-sealant-remover-100ml/88987? Then cleaning up with this, another magic product: https://www.sealantsonline.co.uk/product.php? Really the better job you do the better the re siliconing! If siliconing with the Fugi kit then have an open black bin bag to hand, folded back on itself. Rip up a load of ready to grab 3 or 4 sheets of bog roll. If you get too much silicone on your tool just take it off with a bit of bog roll and drop it in the sack. Don't over use the bog roll or bits will come off. Cheap, not scented baby wipes are good too for various silicone tasks. I stand on the shoulders of others here btw. Some good threads on fitting shower screens. Look for posts by @Nickfromwales!
  18. As for mouldy sealant I really rate Forever White. Does what it says on the...tube. https://www.toolstation.com/forever-white-sanitary-sealant-310ml/p63890? As for finishing sealant you cannot get any better than the Fugi Cramer kit. Before this was recommended to me on this forum I was firmly in the wet finger dipped in a Fairy Liquid solution, run two lines of tape etc brigade. I went from being a bodger to this. It really is magic. I learnt a lot from this video: He also does a later video on doing corners.
  19. I share your pain! My upstairs is boarded with 18mm chipboard affixed with angular ring nails originally. These Spax screws haven't cured it but helped tremendously: https://www.screwfix.com/p/spax-wirox-tx-countersunk-wirox-flooring-screw-4-5-x-60mm-300-pack/88716 Where I've used them on my own new flooring, where I also fitted the joists, the resulting floor is soundless.
  20. He was only taking the pi$$, no need to ruin his life! ?
  21. What they said! A strip of softwood say 1" x 1/2" or similar. Stick it up inside the cavity, vertically or horizontally, it doesn't matter. You might want to drill through the plasterboard and into the strip first to pilot it and stop it splitting when you put the screws in. Two plasterboard screws at 1&2 to hold it. Then cut a piece of pb to fill the gap. You can either screw or stick that to the wood. Leave a nominal gap around the infill piece. I usually fill the gap with something like No Nails, Sticks Like Sh!t etc. Then fill over the top and sand/paint. Why is that bit missing, the shower isn't leaking there is it?
  22. If your cables are too dangly, i.e over a bit of a height you might look at strapping them to a bit of cable tray. Saves stain on connections.
  23. Think I've had dealings with him, was it Drew Shortstraw?
  24. Only since he's known me!
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