Onoff

Removing sealant...horrible job! Combination of removing the bulk with a tool something like this, which I have but don't particularly rate: https://www.screwfix.com/p/vitrex-sealant-remover-profile-kit/82791? A glass scraper with removable blade, not the sort that takes a Stanley blade but something like this. FFS don't use on "plastic" but just carefully on tiles. This stuff (it really does work alright): https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-sealant-remover-100ml/88987? Then cleaning up with this, another magic product: https://www.sealantsonline.co.uk/product.php? Really the better job you do the better the re siliconing! If siliconing with the Fugi kit then have an open black bin bag to hand, folded back on itself. Rip up a load of ready to grab 3 or 4 sheets of bog roll. If you get too much silicone on your tool just take it off with a bit of bog roll and drop it in the sack. Don't over use the bog roll or bits will come off. Cheap, not scented baby wipes are good too for various silicone tasks. I stand on the shoulders of others here btw. Some good threads on fitting shower screens. Look for posts by @Nickfromwales!

As for mouldy sealant I really rate Forever White. Does what it says on the...tube. https://www.toolstation.com/forever-white-sanitary-sealant-310ml/p63890? As for finishing sealant you cannot get any better than the Fugi Cramer kit. Before this was recommended to me on this forum I was firmly in the wet finger dipped in a Fairy Liquid solution, run two lines of tape etc brigade. I went from being a bodger to this. It really is magic. I learnt a lot from this video: He also does a later video on doing corners.

I share your pain! My upstairs is boarded with 18mm chipboard affixed with angular ring nails originally. These Spax screws haven't cured it but helped tremendously: https://www.screwfix.com/p/spax-wirox-tx-countersunk-wirox-flooring-screw-4-5-x-60mm-300-pack/88716 Where I've used them on my own new flooring, where I also fitted the joists, the resulting floor is soundless.

He was only taking the pi$$, no need to ruin his life! ?

What they said! A strip of softwood say 1" x 1/2" or similar. Stick it up inside the cavity, vertically or horizontally, it doesn't matter. You might want to drill through the plasterboard and into the strip first to pilot it and stop it splitting when you put the screws in. Two plasterboard screws at 1&2 to hold it. Then cut a piece of pb to fill the gap. You can either screw or stick that to the wood. Leave a nominal gap around the infill piece. I usually fill the gap with something like No Nails, Sticks Like Sh!t etc. Then fill over the top and sand/paint. Why is that bit missing, the shower isn't leaking there is it?

If your cables are too dangly, i.e over a bit of a height you might look at strapping them to a bit of cable tray. Saves stain on connections.

Think I've had dealings with him, was it Drew Shortstraw?

Only since he's known me!

Masquerading as one of your HMOs? Is there a BuildHub discount?

What does the window look out into, a light well, the captives exercise yard, where the dodgy crane is going etc?

No more attention once this is over. If he was a bird he'd be a prick tease getting all the boys at it! ?

https://electrical.theiet.org/wiring-matters/years/2019/75-may-2019/mythbusters-4-double-insulated-cables/

Not a box as such, they are just covers/edging with a door that frames an opening into a cavity. Something like this. You'll still need a bracket or stud in there to mount your DIN rail, then your psu etc. Needs to be kept clear of insulation too:

It is probably not want you want at all but you can get access panels like this: https://www.screwfix.com/p/manthorpe-access-panel-white-243-x-193-x-16mm/20924? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Manthorpe-GL100-Plastic-Access-Inspection/dp/B00TYNQTPY/ref=sr_1_2? This type is "decoratable": https://www.amazon.co.uk/Secret-Access-Panel-Door-300mm/dp/B00I9ZSDFW None are really invisible per se. Maybe make a feature of it, cover with a picture of your dogs etc! ? You could.....maybe mount a 2 gang faceplate, spray painted black or whatever next to the lock as access to the cavity. Just cut the back out of a dry lining box. Whatever, the connections to that psu need to be secure and it needs to remain accessible.

What Tony's getting at is with the plug in type, you would potentially take the plug-in adapter and cut the plug off on the right hand side. (Whilst it's unplugged!) You would then pare back the end of the black cable by stripping it and exposing the two inner cores. With a test meter you'd next identify the polarity as in which wire is + and which -. Suitably make off the ends by say tinning with solder or putting on some ferrules (neither strictly necessary but good practice). You'd then need to connect to your sensor unit and plug in / switch on. Of course you'd need to hide the cable. That could be in surface trunking at it's simplest/ugliest. Any decent cavities adjacent to the area that you could get power to? Up in the ceiling and down etc? It's all in the planning...or not! ?

Huh? You mean it's not going in a control cabinet of some sort with wires running to the sensor? A photo of the area might assist with any adjacent plug socket etc.

Discovered a word today that I'd not heard before; "twunt". No bearing on this thread, just putting it out there.

Or this, nice and cheap: https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/din-rail-power-supplies/1368308/ You might want a bit of DIN rail to mount it. Shout if need a short length.

You lie! It took less than a page!

At least it'd be warmer than here.

We can only strive to do better and be accepting that we tried our best.

I know a bloke covered something like that up with some old angle iron.

What's the elastic band for?

The grout ain't piss coloured though...

Are they like Coopers of Stortford?