Onoff

Got exactly the same issue in 4 places on my dormer. Mine is a lot more jerry built than yours though. I did think about folding some stainless mesh into a V.

The only thing with a water fed pole system is that the professional kit doesn't use "normal" tap water. The cheapo ones you just attach to your hose tap. They use variations on de-ionised water or a reverse osmosis system. Ordinary tap water can and does streak. That's the systems that just use water and no detergent. Imho, if you can get to the glass it's Fairy Liquid in a bucket with a dolly and squeegee. Microfibre cloth to pick up any runs.

Water fed pole with a brush on the end? Pretty common.

Could a custom clip be 3D printed? You sketch it I'll print it. Or is it that the hob projects too far down and hits the cutlery draw?

He keeps the BCOs that visit site in one of the dungeons.

There isn't one, it's just prissy tarts wanting to push boundaries. Like awkward clients who are never happy and just complain because they can. Live with it. Literally. Buy Aico, follow the instructions, fit and live should the worst happen.

Look on YouTube at the AqualSeal tanking kit. Basically, once your boarding out is done whether some form of cement board or moisture resistant plasterboard, you tape all corners and junctions (like wall to floor or even perhaps wall to tray) with a super sticky, absorbent bandage. You then paint on tanking which is a liquid in alternate direction coats. End on a vertical brushed coat. You prime and tile over the tanking which is a continuous membrane.

Said the king of all tools.

I've watched the videos of the old boys doing it on YouTube, read up on it etc. Either you use fist size square blocks of flint or random shape, again nominally fist sized ones. The thing is with both types you select those that have depth, a tail I think they call it. In many cases these flints have are not much more than slivers and have very little depth. They are selected for their face features not their size. I can't use different flints either. These have sentimental value having been collected by a relative who was an amateur geologist. There is no precedent for doing this, such thin ones would not be used in traditional walling. Next plan is to clean all the flints up where they have resin/mastic on and coat the backs with a SBR/cement slurry before trying the traditional bedding against a board.

Tonight's efforts:

Jeremy hasn't been on here for nearly 2 years now.

I used 12.5mm Aqua Panel (Knauf I think?). Had to cut with an old circular saw and carbide grid jigsaw bits. That and Starrett cutters. Quite sharp and dusty. If the timber studwork you're screwing it to is fractionally off it hairline cracks. (It is tbh still held together by an integral reinforcing mesh).You need special screws for it too and often special joint filler between boards. I would though use it again.

First time I'd ever cut tiles and I decided to do tiles in the wet room corner!

Better to have tried and failed.....and tried and failed etc. Hopefully they'll chip out easily enough tomorrow afternoon.

As @pocster would say, a lot bit mad.

Funny, I did think of SBR earlier today but was thinking to paint each one neat as I set them in place. Your idea is better.

Like your diction and grammar! ?

I agree. My first layout for this panel was: I ended up with this: I can see me ripping this all out and going "traditional", like might have been suggested once or twice.....here and elsewhere.....

Didn't do anymore today (a bit hungover ?). Tapping those bottom flints, either side of the stainless steel surround and they ring a bit hollow. I can only assume I didn't get enough mix in there when I pumped it in. Was wondering whether I could pour a liquid grout or even self levelling compound, down behind the half panel I've done and it'd find its way down?

A plastic piston to replace the easily broken ones on the Roughneck mortar gun. In grey PETG:

Well... Right or wrong I made up a small mix the same as seemed "right" when I was experimenting in terms of colour and the way it moulded round the flints. 3 builders sand 1 sharp sand 1 lime 1 OPC. Stuck in the bucket and dry mixed really well first with the Aldi paddle mixer. Then wetted with Everbuild Integral Waterproofer, diluted 20:1. Mixed again. Left a bit then remixed. Most importantly, despite the sharp sand, the mix is easily pumped with it not drying out at all. Must be the lime/waterproofer having an effect and keeping the water in the mix. Did the half bucket but the original, skinny, Roughneck mortar gun piston broke. Printing a new heavy duty design now in PETG. The issue is spacing, a bit bigger than a fingers width in places. I'm going to live with it. When a bit firmer I'll go over the mortar with a dry sponge.

You can save on wiring by going horizontally between sockets. A wall chaser makes it a doddle if you get a decent extractor on it.

...the ground. Best bet! ?

Can't a wet finger held in the air be used to determine draughts?