Onoff

Bloody kids.

Do you have trouble keeping it "fed"?

What for a Star Wars blaster?

Indeed, I was assuming to do it properly you would need to add MVHR. Saying that there must be cold bridging issues at the floor adding EWI to existing housing stock and no continuity at the ceiling. Is it "worth it" without addressing those other two areas?

Is it an issue if there's a gap between the back of the EWI panel and original wall face? I'm thinking that may be unavoidable anyway if your original wall isn't plumb or the finish stippled, rough etc. Presume the new EWI goes in nice and plumb?

So now I have to figure the trigger (that rhymes ?). In the original box section type it's quite simple as the inside faces of the box side walls provide a bearing surface for the plastic trigger: Shouldn't be insurmountable though. A bit of time on the CAD should have it figured. I'm thinking it'll be a case of cutting a slot with a Dremel in the underside of the copper pipe. It's amazing what you can do with a Dremel and all the various cutting discs and grinding stones, that and some needle files: I need to sort that bottom corner where I overshot with the grinding tool. (Yet another unfinished project ?)

Says the master! ? What system is that out of interest? I presume it all starts with a bottom rail, straight and true? Do you block any existing air bricks? What's the m2 cost on materials excluding labour roughly? Cheers

Steady on now, there's the whole not losing interest / finishing it issues to overcome yet! ? The great thing about this 3D stuff is it's scaleable. So you could make a bigger one for bigger loads or bigger operators even. Good old Fred Taylor! Interesting with your situation hand wise as you could make custom grips etc. A wrist brace might compensate for lack of hand strength to hold the thing and so on.

I did the basic 3D model in AutoCAD and exported as an STL. My lad tweaked it and added the chequering in Fusion 360 I think.

The MK1 handle is printed and the 15mm pipe is a lovely transition fit. Likely a tad loose but PETG is inherently a bit hairy I find, so that helps with grip. The holes in the grip will make it a doddle to drill through the copper and fit some roll pins to hold it together. I might even just use split pins so I can field strip it with just a Leatherman... ? Really happy with the chequering effect my lad managed on the grip. However... The ergonomics leave a bit to be desired. I have really big hands so should really scale this up a bit. I think it looks a bit lost: If I extend the copper out the back, up to a wrist brace, then it pushes into the flesh between thumb and forefinger. I wonder if that will rub and / or leave me with a green mark? It needs to be perfect so it's the envy of other trash pickers like an Ulfbehrt sword... Options are to make the grip bigger, lessen the grip angle maybe or raise the tube higher. As I designed the grip by laying a real trash picker on a flatbed scanner and tracing round the image in AutoCAD I'm happy for a first go. Trigger next I guess.

Should rename you Roy Castle!

Decided I need a longer than average trash picker befitting someone of my stature. This after a spot of civic duty earlier. I took it upon myself to collect the recyclables along the 1/2 mile stretch outside my house. AONB my arse! ? There were plenty of cans just out of reach in the hedgerows. Found a business end, claw thing on Yeggi that uses a 10 or 15mm dia tube as the main shaft. Printed both options but it'll be based around 15mm copper pipe: There was no design for a handle though so I came up with this. Just a render here, being printed at the moment. My lad did the chequering on the model I did:

Being pedantic... With a relay coil shouldn't R be substituted by Z?

Once you've felted that and got the slates on you won't even see them! ?

Or get the T-shirt / mug.

I just looked at various ideas on YouTube and did my own take. Just old collected angle, channel, box and tube, a bit of conduit. The hinges turned from 8.8 bolts. I knew all this tat would come in handy one day! ?

I ran a stack of 4x2 packing timbers (radiata pine from NZ) through a table saw to get nom 2x1s. No issue at all really.

Thought you'd finished?

Came out amazingly well. He wrapped the pallet shed in a breathable felt part roll bought cheap. Then screwed the cladding onto battens (made from the same mill off cuts) with cheapo silver screws from SF. Paid no real attention to getting the screws in line etc. Hasn't particularly cracked or warped. It was pretty green when it went on too. Crecote over the top since. Tiles were freebies on the back. Someone's old front door, scrap windows. St/st hinges from me. Inside, more pallets:

Not mine but the nephew's pallet shed I helped with: Cladding, fascia etc is scrap from a log mill:

I meant turning a 4x2 into two 4x1s.

Ooh I do like a bit of scrap and skip diving! Rolling draw for steel offcuts: Sheet metal folder: Pallet buster: Tote from a cut down oil can: Pipe de-coiler: Solar thermal panel: Then there's the unfinished ones... Mini scissor lift: Electric wacker plate: Rotary converter:

...so if the original roof trusses were 2" thick did you cut them down to 1" or something?

The crusher is really noisy. You might drop a few bottles round to the neighbours beforehand! ? @Gone West on here pretty much dismantled his bungalow on his own and Freegled etc loads of stuff and people took it! He also hired a crusher. Can't remember how much but he produced a bloody great pile to spread around. You might salvage timbers for a later workshop build etc.

They're building half a dozen detached mansions on the old golf course club house site near me. Had a huge crusher in and all the old brickwork, tiles and concrete went through it to be used as over site I believe. Tidy job. I thought such re-use ticked a box?