Onoff

Decision made! It'll either work or fail miserably but it will have kept me out of the house for a good bit and is deliciously complicated. I've an off cut of stainless mesh been kicking around for years. 304 I think. Bought some similar recently for work and it was nigh on £100 a sheet! It's about 16SWG/1". (Saying that I do want to make an oil flue mesh guard so I'd get my monies worth out of a sheet doing another 3 panels for the pillars and that). The plan is then to add another 4, M5 studs, resin anchored in. These won't need to be as long as the existing two as they're to anchor the coach lantern. The mesh is held in place with st/st M5 penny washers and full nuts. That'll give me a rot proof, mesh "base". I'm then going to glue the individual flints on with Sticks Like Sh!t or something similar. I'll cut the mesh as required if the flint needs to sit a bit deeper past the mesh. Some flints are not so deep though, guess I set my mesh depth near to the shallowest one. Duct tape if necessary to stop the flint slipping. Once all positioned and the adhesive set, I'll use a mortar gun to pump lots of the mix below in through the gaps, let it go off a bit and brush in around each flint. The biggest problem is whether my mix will pump through my mortar gun! Really I should be out trying that rather than charging up the batteries getting ready to drill... This is the test mix I did back in October 'ish this year after a lot of experimenting - 3 soft - 1 sharp (figured it'd add strength and maybe some interest with the fines in it) - 1 opc - 1 lime (for plasticity/self healing) The sample has sat face up for the last 3 months through multiple frost's, freezing days and nights, torrential rain etc. I'm quite pleased how it's weathering. In it's final position it will get some added protection from the pillar capstone overhanging this flint face. I'm hoping that the lime will aid it going through the gun along with the liquid waterproofer. Only one way to find out!

So...eventually I'll meet the tortoise coming up behind me? Follow the snail trail!

I'd build your stud wall first. What make, Geberit?

Two DPM acronyms at once there! ?

Is it more to do with RH than rainfall, ref the Gulf Stream?

1800mm bath here. 800mm wide. I'm sure it'll be very nice if ever I have enough hot water to fill it.

Aqua Panel is heavy. I never tried scoring and snapping. I used grit edged jigsaw blades and an old circular saw. Framework has to be dead level too or it hairline cracks as you screw it on.

It's not my glazing.

I've not done a air gap / service cavity build up yet but am planning to. As above there's two particular rooms / wall make ups in my house that I have retrofitted: Bathroom: Original: Render/4" brick/2" cavity/4" brick I added: 2 - 4" pir between battens/vcl/12.5mm plasterboard or Aqua Panel/tiles. Bloody freezing! Due I'm sure to the UFH not being connected, nor the towel radiator. On the North facing wall the pir insulation layer is tapered from 2" one end to at least 4" (maybe 6" thinking some more) the other end of a 3m wall. Behind the illuminated pocket is only 1" of pir. It tapers as I squared the room off by studding it out. I've only got 100mm pir in the ceiling (at the moment) below a cold loft and loads of ceiling penetrations to make good. High hopes though when it's all done. Also got 150mm pir + 25mm EPS under the floor. This room though will be very near airtight when done. Study: Original: Render/4" block I added: 60mm cavity with 50mm Rockwool batts/4" block/50mm battens with 50mm Rockwool batts in between/12.5mm plasterboard. Warmest room in the house. 4" roll insulation under the floor between joists. 11" fluffy roll above the ceiling. 1 small double rad. Though there's no vcl anywhere in the study but my attention to detail at joints and junctions is pretty good so can only help.

How about a bit of walk on glazing to look down onto the old footings?

If I were you I'd be wondering whether or not to tile at all and use wall panels instead!

I've done exactly that myself before, however, knowing what I know now... You get cold bridging through the battens. You've also got to dig into the 50mm pir to run cables in channels, or conduit etc. Easy to put extra sockets in with the service cavity (you can save cable too by going horizontal between sockets). Plenty of benefit for losing that extra inch.

Could you afford to lose nom. 82.5mm inside? 50mm pir, 25mm battens then 12.5mm plasterboard? It'd give you an uninterrupted, nom. airtight, 50mm insulation layer, a 25mm cavity for cabling. You could use 35mm dry lining boxes for sockets and switches. I'm thinking of doing exactly that.

Just sat and worked out I've 8 different external wall make ups here. 1) Render/9" block/1"batten/1/4" hardboard. 2). Render/9" solid brick/render/plaster. 3) Render/4" brick/2" cavity/4" brick/2 - 4" pir/vcl/12.5mm plasterboard or Aqua Panel/tiles 4) Render/4" block/60mm cavity with 50mm Rockwool batts/4" block/50mm battens with 50mm Rockwool batts/12.5mm plasterboard. 5) Render/4" block/render/plaster 6) Render/9" block/render/plaster 7) Render/4" brick/2" cavity/4" brick/render/plaster 8)Tiles / felt / 12mm ply / 4" studs with 100mm roll insulation / 3/8" plasterboard. 4) Is the warmest room in the house. Be easier to knock my place down ?

All a bunch of C**ts! Celts that is...

I seen to remember our Ulster born and bred German teacher saying when he lived in Germany he was complimented on his German for basically lack of a foreign accent.

They're just Geberit copycats.

More ginger, bloodshot eyed, strong smelling and very, very drunk surely?

Basically giving you the old two fingered salute.

Think he extruded a line of triangles on the X axis, then the same on the Y. To get like a "mat" of pyramids.

There's some really clever stuff done with 3D scanning of affected limbs. Enables exact fitting prostheses to perfectly fit the stump or whatever. Used in restorative dental work today. Mulling building a simple scanner here at the moment (uses a mobile phone strapped to it). Could push your hand into algenate or similar, cast in plaster, 3D scan, make a socket etc. There's a lot more to it than that in terms of comfortable fit etc. How about an exoskeleton for your hand with the missing finger(s) "driven" by the remaining ones? ?

I reckon you must have a leaky roof.

Just because you have 100, 90 or whatever mm on the walls doesn't mean you have to have it so thick at the reveals.

The Lidl set doesn't have one in ? I think you mean a riffler file?

Nice files. I won't be contravening the VCRA any time soon trust me!