Onoff

Better to have tried and failed.....and tried and failed etc. Hopefully they'll chip out easily enough tomorrow afternoon.

As @pocster would say, a lot bit mad.

Funny, I did think of SBR earlier today but was thinking to paint each one neat as I set them in place. Your idea is better.

Like your diction and grammar! ?

I agree. My first layout for this panel was: I ended up with this: I can see me ripping this all out and going "traditional", like might have been suggested once or twice.....here and elsewhere.....

Didn't do anymore today (a bit hungover ?). Tapping those bottom flints, either side of the stainless steel surround and they ring a bit hollow. I can only assume I didn't get enough mix in there when I pumped it in. Was wondering whether I could pour a liquid grout or even self levelling compound, down behind the half panel I've done and it'd find its way down?

A plastic piston to replace the easily broken ones on the Roughneck mortar gun. In grey PETG:

Well... Right or wrong I made up a small mix the same as seemed "right" when I was experimenting in terms of colour and the way it moulded round the flints. 3 builders sand 1 sharp sand 1 lime 1 OPC. Stuck in the bucket and dry mixed really well first with the Aldi paddle mixer. Then wetted with Everbuild Integral Waterproofer, diluted 20:1. Mixed again. Left a bit then remixed. Most importantly, despite the sharp sand, the mix is easily pumped with it not drying out at all. Must be the lime/waterproofer having an effect and keeping the water in the mix. Did the half bucket but the original, skinny, Roughneck mortar gun piston broke. Printing a new heavy duty design now in PETG. The issue is spacing, a bit bigger than a fingers width in places. I'm going to live with it. When a bit firmer I'll go over the mortar with a dry sponge.

You can save on wiring by going horizontally between sockets. A wall chaser makes it a doddle if you get a decent extractor on it.

...the ground. Best bet! ?

Can't a wet finger held in the air be used to determine draughts?

With these MVHR systems don't you / get given calculated air flow rates then use an anemometer at each "vent" to set up? That's what most on here seem to have done to balance things. There was one floating about for loan on here...

Next July it'll be 30 years here.

Use cutting compound when you drill and you'll at least double the life. A smear on hacksaw & bandsaw blades helps there too.

Chalk and cheese. Those DeWalt ones are superb (& I can't stand DeWalt).

Tile first. Then CT1 the base to the finished tiles. Imho.

I used those Easy Drive screws to affix 9mm ply to my steel, wall hung Geberit frame. I didn't pre drill from memory.

+1

Is your neighbour: A) Elderly B) Retired C) Got **** all else to do D) Likes to have the last word E) Frets about the small things F) Possibly a member on here ? ?

Landlady was saying to me all the upstairs floors slope. Murder tiling the bathroom floor recently she said. Don't suppose Part A was a thing in the 15th century... ? It doesn't look too bad from this angle. 6.2% Audit Ale is lovely btw.

TechFast screws are designed to fix light timber frames to steel and will self drill the steel. They take a Torx driver. Even a girlie DeWalt cordless should be able to put them in ?

I found it very easy to line up Astra 1 but Astra 2 was a pig to lock onto.

Same here.

It's unfortunately de rigueur round here for people to drop in a sump pump and take off the "liquid" generally when we have heavy rain. All to save on emptying. Some to$$ers with ad hoc pits will do it in the height of summer. C****! No thought for anyone downwind of them. Like the Wild West still in many respects. The whole place was once know as Bidonville with good reason. I don't btw. Had it properly emptied a couple of years back.

To get rid of the visible crack I would: Dig out the grout. Half fill the bath. Redo with white C-Tec BT1 and tool it flush with the tile. https://www.toolstation.com/bt1-tribrid-ultimate-bathroom-sealant-adhesive/p74523? That's BT1 not CT1. Let it set.