Simplysimon

hi all, starting to look at getting prices for mvhr, i am probably going with a paul system. does anyone have one running, and if so, any comments. anyone got any comments on a supplier/fitter? cheers

mine, as thread changed!

i certainly like some of the designs

that's great for towels, what about general washing/drying?

i looked up nhbc standards as well as building standards for timber trades, unfortunately nothing in them regarding slab insulation fitting

yes, but it takes accuracy and therefore more time and also a willingness to do a good job

not acceptable, and one of the reasons i'm going for blown cellulose even though i would have been fitting the insulation myself had i gone for rigid simon

have to say dee we wouldn't be allowed that make up, your 4x2 on the flat would need to be 2 x 6x2 on edge up here. why put a lintel in it's not doing anything? either side is going to be carrying the same weight as above the lintel. i see what you mean by the birdsmoth on the wall, seems strange to me, you put a support in then weaken the rafter by cutting a birdsmouth. i would suggest putting a strap hanger around the ends of the rafters when you cut them at birdsmouth and over the wallplate. simon

you'll need a lead tray under the window, upstands at each end and returned up inside of window needs to overhang outside finish. i'm afraid you're confusing things, could do with some pics as rafters normally only cut with birds mouth at wallplate on ext wall, they normally just sit on purlin. haven't heard of hardie board. found it as cement fibre board for int use, is it the cladding? http://www.jameshardie.co.uk/hardielinea-cladding accessories on the page and i'm sure they would advise on fitting.

referring back to your pic yesterday at 13.38 the rafters have been cut and bridled, no birds mouth at top. when you support the ceiling joists with acrow props and cut the rafters, the ends will need to be bridled to carry their weight and the loads imposed on them. these loads are then transmitted to the outer rafters you have doubled up and then to wallplate, walls and foundations. are you using 4x2 or 6x2 for new ceiling joists?

good stuff, dug out a dormer detail from 30yrs ago, first house! dormer walls, 50x100 uprights @400crs with 50x100 top and bottom runnners, double uprights at window openings. 75x200 bridle joist at top cut ends of rafters, trimmers above windows were 2 x 50x200, if you were allowed 2 x 50x100, happy days. simon

joiner/lecturer, i find it easier to draw it out to scale but it's the same thing with a roofing square, do you have the slotted timber hypotenuse for the square? what will support the cut ends of rafters?

sorry, i meant the, soon to be cut, upper ends of the rafters. have never taught cut hip roof by long distance before, suppose there's a first time for most things, you're about two weeks too early as i'm doing a cut hip roof and could have recorded it, but here goes - do you have a roofing square or do you have any experience of technical drawing? you will really need one method, i suppose laying it out on the ground full size is an option.

unless 4x2's glued and screwed i'd turn 90deg and have on edge, different strengths. i didn't mean the temp brace what will you have supporting the upper rafter ends?

top front horizontal, two x 6x2 on edge, one at least, what's happening on the inside holding the old rafters? simon

@Dee, i have to say that there should be 1:5 sectional detail drawings from the architect. this should all be drawn for you. by headers, do you mean the timber across the width of the opening? if so i'd go with a double 6 x 2, joist spacing at 6 x 2 at 600mm centres especially if the opening is 2.4m. joist sizing as a rule of thumb, 6x2 =12+1 gives a span of 13', rafters 6x2=12-1 gives a span of 11', this works for all sectional sizes. this doesn't work for trimmers/trimming joists simon

hi @Dee, when you seat cut rafter to joist, a good idea is to do it as a pole plate roof. a piece of 30x30mm housed half way at 90 deg across the joist and the other half housed into the underside of the rafter. this will stop any movement. simon

didn't mean it harshly, you said you didn't have a scoobies! i'm happy to go through step by step, but it's easier if you at least have an idea, if you know roughly what you're doing it cuts out a lot of time if i'm telling you something you already know. you need to understand the geometry of the roof and the constituent parts which is explained in the leaflet simon

read through the leaflet and then ask the questions! at least then you might have a scoobies.

not if there aren't any ceiling joists. @Dee i presume one of you knows how to work out the true lengths, plumb and seat cuts? this, https://prezi.com/qnjmw9dbfnic/traditional-cut-roof-geometry/ may help, we don't use saddle boards, just the crown rafter which is the same as a common, the compound cuts of the jacks/cripples are fun. simon

did his guide dog help out or just let him get on with it? i wouldn't be happy if i'd done that, in fact i wouldn't have done as badly as that, and i hate tiling. you cannot accept that, and i agree with the slab looking hollow at the door. a good tiler should have been able to fix it though, just proves he was incompetent.

probably a bit of overkill, but if the workshop isn't too big then these http://www.horsematsplus.co.uk/ would keep your feet and knees cosseted. can be picked up at most equestrian shops. simon

the benefit of the 3151 is that in ten years, if looked after it will still sell for £250, the legs come off for transportation though it's a solid saw. if you wish new, then this, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BELLE-ATIKA-HT315-TABLE-SAW-CIRCULAR-BENCH-240V-3kW-Wood-Saw-/192117951065?hash=item2cbb1f4a59:g:lcsAAOSwInxXMY4v seems to be a copy of the dewalt which is a copy of the elu! not a bad price for a 3kw saw and delivery as well, make an offer simon

sounds good, and as i'm going to need one in the near future it could be a contender. my only question is, anything which eats something, produces something, so how does the solid waste disappear?

the staircase should be located on a trimmer joist which bridles the opening. the strings should be cut over this to locate it. there should be fixing on the underside of the strings to fix the stair to the walls. if there was only one wall, i.e. to the side wall which is staying then there would be no difference in the fixing to the trimmer and wall. the only difficulty you would have is that the new open side, will not have a balustrade. simon