Simplysimon

hi all, starting the plumbing and was going with @Nickfromwales idea of two manifolds, i need a hot return due to length of run from cylinder to furthest outlet. can i have manifolds as well as a pumped return? read through topic below, i did post as a link but it came up as below. had thought of going 10mm but will probably go with 15mm plastic though thoughts welcome please

+1 to above re the i beams, just beat me to it

if you're drilling steel, and i know you love the firm which comes in a fetching shade of black and yellow, buy their hss drill bits. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154592266014?hash=item23fe6ac71e:g:HoYAAOSwn41hLqWK wouldn't buy their tools but these are superb

i'd go along with @Iceverge above, rafters look good, no signs of rot in photos and if using different slate/tile size will need battened anyway, the only difference would be that if you wished to keep the slate then when the roof is stripped sort out the good slates and keep them for one area of roof (rear) and replace the rest with good quality spanish.

we went render on board as well as fibre cement cladding, was going to be larch but in the interests of insurance and mortgage and no maintenance in the future went with fibre cement cladding

bend to the side and down, not straight downwards, do you have black or plain stainless?

just over 2yrs later.......

just dropping back in after a good while away, saw this post, i agree with @joe90, can't see them unless looking hard. i had my roof hooked on and it's great. takes longer to set out but you save time in the fitting. there is also less chance of breaking due to overnailing as per another post asking how tight to nail. the other plus point is with having to double nail, replacement is almost impossible, however, bend a hook, slide out slate and replace. one thing i have found is that when replacing one, sliding it in on top of a slate ripper makes it easier to place the head over the counter battens. i would also suggest you don't need to keep the required overlap as the tail can't lift so would save in the quantities required.

+1 to the above and if it's not serious enough to come through the ceiling below, don't worry, especially as the roofs being re-done soon

take the gate post down and reinstate your land. it's not been 10 years even if they did claim and let them take you to court. i'd reckon it wouldn't come to it drawings seem quite clear as to boundary. an old van would be ideal for accidentally removing their illegal post and wall as you were reversing into your garage, then offer to rebuild it for them, naturally in the correct position.

tight git ?

https://fdomes.com/glamping-domes/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6r-y2_q-7QIV04bVCh1mqQxzEAAYAyAAEgLITfD_BwE could always rent it out down the line?

get it's father, Elu mof 177e not a cheap knock off ?

scaffolding boards dressed and bolted together for an even more industrial look? they could even be cross laminated

maybe they're trying, forlornly,to stop the cat $hi££ing in their garden ?

if i had a hedge as a border which the neighbour owned an i wished to build a fence along it, i would cut it hard back to the trunks, build the fence tight and try to ensure i didn't kill the hedge

trailer less than £2800 brand new https://www.batesontrailers.com/shop/platform-tipping-trailers/2050-platform-tipping-trailers/ and 16' instead of 14', will it cost £6k to build it again?

so the wall in the middle of the first pic is the boundary and the new fence on the left has encroached by .75 - 1m onto caravan park? up to caraven park owner to deal with, though they probably won't want the aggro.

if that was holding my roof from spreading, i'd be seriously worried. knock it off, roof is absolutely fine the way it is. purlins are fine and well supported

i would do as you suggested and cover with a trellis, better yet three, one towards the front and rear of the wall to even it out, plant some honeysuckle or clematis. what's not seen won't be fretted over.

redwood should be a tighter grain and therefore harder wearing plus it shold be nicer to look at

very clever

second last picture looks like a blocked down pipe as well!

nope, well unless you want the new floor to move and squeek! you would need to pack the full length of board, unrealistic, as above lift the old flooring and find the reason.

if i were doing the corner i wouldn't use a trim, if using t&g, plane the tongue off and seal with ct1. would look a lot neater.