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Ian

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Everything posted by Ian

  1. Ian
    I had to relay one of my manholes a year after completion because it hadn’t been installed properly (ie it wasn’t done as shown in your diagram) Some solids were always being left behind in the area next to the capped-off lower channel which was then leading to smells.
  2. Ian
    Just make sure your tiler is going to use a good quality decoupling mat under the tiles. Schluter's ''Ditra 25'' is very good and that's what I specified on my own self-build as well as on any of our commercial projects. https://www.schluter.co.uk/media/schlueter_db_6_1_ditra_uk.pdf
  3. Ian
    That's correct.
  4. Ian
    @smart51 rule of thumb is that it costs approx 15% more per square/m to build a bungalow compared to a normal 2 storey house
  5. Ian
    The old fashioned way- natural ventilation via windows that open. Also you’re supposed to have trickle vents on the windows.
  6. Ian
    Extra Note: in Exposure Zone 4 (see page 35 of Part C) the minimum residual cavity is 75mm if you’re building a masonry cavity wall using facing bricks.
  7. Ian
    Probably too late for the OP (I’m not here very often these days as it’s now 5 years since I finished my own build) but for the benefit of anyone else contemplating a masonry cavity wall, the Approved Docs for England (not sure about Scotland) expressly require a minimum cavity width of 50mm. The alternative is full-fill insulation. The relevant bit of the regs is Part A, Page 14, Sections 2C8. It’s also in Part C, Page 32, Section 5.15 together with diagrams showing the options.
  8. Ian
    No, the Osmo Poly-x has been great - no issues at all with it in the 5 years since we did the work.
  9. Ian

    Mr.

    Ian replied to BML's topic in Introduce Yourself

    As @Conor says the main issue is that all the loft insulation needs to be in the same place and, with your roof, it would be best to add it to the insulation that you’ve already got across the floor of the loft. Adding extra insulation to loft spaces can sometimes lead to condensation problems in the roof void - the degree of risk depends on how well ventilated your loft space is and the type (if any) of the roofing felt that’s under the tiles.
  10. Ian
    @Marvin you could try Gorilla tape. I’ve used it for an external repair and it’s lasted 3 or 4 years so far without failing. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gorilla-Glue-3044401-Duct-Black/dp/B001E5ZWT4/ref=asc_df_B001E5ZWT4/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=223237768057&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4834807999352096810&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9046437&hvtargid=pla-312217067516&psc=1&th=1&psc=1
  11. Ian
    We use ours as a holiday home so it’s only used 2 or 3 days max a week. We have a Bio Pure 1 which has been running now for 5 years with no issues. When I completed the build I rang the manufacturer for advice about the best way to operate the air pump due to the intermittent loading and I was told to put it on a timer set to operate 2 hours on and 2 hours off. It’s been completely problem free with no smells. The added benefit of the timer is that it halves the running cost.
  12. Ian
    Our Bio Pure 1 came with a Secoh JDK-S-60 air pump which only uses 40 W.
  13. Ian
    It has a thermal conductivity of 0.063 W/mK. article about its insulation value & cost compared to loft roll insulation here: https://www.thegreenage.co.uk/micafil-loose-fill-loft-insulation/
  14. Ian
    We’re coming up for 5 years with our 3G windows. The only condensation we get is on the outside. They are bog-standard Rehau upvc frames but fitted with 44mm glazing units
  15. Ian
    Yes, you're correct. Commercial projects almost always carry higher risks than domestic so it will depend on your attitude to risk whether or not you wish to exceed the minimum requirements of the Building Regs. The relevant guidance is in BS 5516-2 and it takes a risk based approach. Below are some extracts relevant to your build:
  16. Ian
    @hendriQ the glass spec that would be used on a typical commercial project with overhead glazing or for balustrading would be for the lower pane of glass to be toughened laminated (IE: 2 panes of toughened glass laminated together). The upper pane would be typically be toughened. (All toughened glass to be heat-soaked) with toughened laminated glass, if one of the 2 panes breaks the plastic interlayer and the other intact pane holds everything in place.
  17. Ian
    I got all my ABS Avocet anti-snap Eurolock barrels & keys from JC Plastics on Amazon: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B015YCZVJS/ref=pe_3187911_189395841_TE_dp_1 Edit: unlike the Yale anti-snap barrels these Avocet ones need no adaptation to the door and are a straightforward fit.
  18. Ian
    A4 stainless steel would be better than A2 in locations anywhere near the coast or industrial areas. A4 vs A2: https://www.bolts.co.uk/guides-and-tips/heads-threads-and-finishes/difference-between-a2-and-a4-stainless-steel/
  19. Ian
    You’re best option is to use a liquid DPM on top of your screed which will allow you to lay the engineered wood on top.
  20. Ian

    Hi

    Ian replied to Clemenza's topic in Introduce Yourself

    @Clemenza you need to use a F2S2 grade of brick in this situation: https://www.brick.org.uk/admin/resources/g-brickwork-durability.pdf
  21. Ian
    @Moggaman the insulation layer is there for acoustic reasons - it’s there to prevent impact noise like footsteps transmitting directly through to the rooms below.
  22. Ian
    There’s nothing in either the British Standard or in the Building Regs that stipulate a maximum gradient so you’ll be okay when the inspector visits.
  23. Ian
    Good link here to a Scottish Gov publication: https://www.gov.scot/publications/timber-cladding-scotland/pages/13/
  24. Ian
    We’ve got a house which is surrounded by mature oak and sycamore trees. I first tried the flat type grids and the wet leafs just sat on top and blocked the whole thing off. I then switched to hedgehogs and they’re much better.
  25. Ian
    I got one prepared by a local solicitor when we were preparing our own planning application. It didn’t cost much. We also got some friendly neighbours to write letters of support which included statements about the existence of a previous structure on the site.
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