joe90

Like peter above I challenged a council banding (about ten years ago) and was set to go to appeal, the day before the council rang me to ask what evidence I had and I said “ why should I tell you?” He then admitted th council could not afford to go to appeal and wanted an agreement, so I told him my evidence and he agreed over the phone. Job done. I am waiting for the council to ask for council tax on my current new build but on purpose I am not having the Sewerage treatment plant installed till the last minute so it’s “ not fit for purpose “

I had the same problem, without the actual toilets etc to measure, one upstairs ( in a wooden floor) I got slightly wrong and it niggles me that the pipe is not quite vertical

I have a rubi scribe and snap and it’s the best one i have ever used. I did buy a large wet tile cutter but didn’t find it much good so sold it. Luckily any of my cut floor tiles have skirting over the cuts so a perfect finish is not required.

I have a single hedge and had to provide a 1 mtr root protection zone which I did with posts and sheep fencing, I don’t see why you can’t ask the council to allow you to remove the hedge ON THE ADVISE OF GROUND CONDITION EXPERTS and provide a root protection zone with fencing.

Thanks for the comments guys, yes I am pleased with it. Tiles came from B@Q, Italian porcelain £12 per meter and swmbo likes them. Yes Nick going with charcoal grout and thanks for the heads up re the mop.

When I did GRP roofing I bought of the shelf edge pieces and upstands for a professional finish.

Well, apart from a few tiles in an awkward corner I have just completed 40 sq metres over the weekend and feeling quite pleased with myself, although I ache a little I think the knee pads did a Stirling job. ( let’s see if I can get out of bed in the morning ?). only 24 meters of stone and 32 mtrs of wood to go?

I agree that GRP is hard work but with a bit of knowledge very doable, I have done several GRP roofs with 100% success,

My “ site” ones are great ( rubber type stuff in trouser pockets) but when new the pads would not bend around my knee properly so I cured this by bending them in half and leaving wedged behind a radiator over night, they are permenantly rounded now and a great fit.

Lynford, I managed to get a command unit from carrier, I called them in Connecticut USA and they gave me a number in Southampton, I think!. I Just googled them and their number in this country is 0870 392 9514, they have depots in Bromsgrove and a few other places, give them a call they were very helpful and said those command units were available off the shelf ?

I agree with all the above, I am well known for NOT being P.C. Or H&S conscious, my kids used to play on our scaffolding when I built an extension ( single story) and I got in trouble as a scout leader for “ not abiding by H&S rules”( so I left). To this day my kids ( now young adults) regale stories about great fun with their Dad doing what other kids could not do. It’s all about managing risk, not writing a legal risk assessment document but judging the situation as it occurs. My 7 year old granddaughter loves nothing more than sitting on my lap in my JCB driving and digging ( a few years yet till she has a go herself?) It’s a shame that kids nowadays don’t seem to have the fun that we did. old man rant over?

Well I am in the middle of tiling onto liquid screed and no one has mentioned de coupling!, I just sealed the floor and used flexible adhesive. It’s been down at least 2 hours and no problems yet ?.

Well I’m in deepest Devon and didn’t feel a thing, just heard it on the radio.

Thanks JSH, I could not find it either.

In my opening remark I said I was also laying engineered wood flooring, can anyone recommend an adhesive for this ( and a cheap source?).

Gosh that looks a lot easier standing up, their adhesive looks a lot more fluid than mine when mixed as specified too.

Well we just installed oak stairs and they look fab but I would not go without carpet ( personally) so as a compromise we are having a runner with stair rods, we are still able to see the oak but have “safe” carpet to walk on.

Yup, old guys rule eh, I am ready with the deep heat etc etc and a soak in the bath tonight. My comment was tongue in cheek as I new I was in for it. Have laid around 20% of the kitchen tiles and having a sit down and a gawp at the forum whilst resting. I am supprised how fast “ fast set” adhesive goes off which is pushing me a tad, I think I will mix smaller batches ? p.s. I got some “site” trousers with pockets for knee pads and they are great, the knees are not so bad ( yet!).

Building regs are a must for anyone and as far as I understand it you need planning permission if close to a boundary anyway.

Thanks guys for your replies, yes I thought 5mm silicone would work. No worries Nick, thanks for looking, apparently round here every trade is flat out so I’m going to suck it up and crack on myself, how hard can it be !!!!

I second StairBox, ours was delivered in 5 days after accepting the design/quote and it fitted together very well, we have a problem with the handrail but their tech support is very helpful. Also very reasonable.

Well guys, I am starting to lay floor tiles and engineered wood flooring ( yes starting to work indoors now the sun in shining ?) We have underfloor heating so I know to leave a min 10mm gap around the tiles/wood at the edges which will be covered by skirting ( mostly!) I have places like door threshold, brick fireplace, patio doors where I will have no skirting and most are virtually flat with the tile/wood surface, and those that aren’t ( fireplace hearth) I hate quadrant beading. So, how can I create an expansion gap and not have a hole that will fill with dust/ rubbish. Is there a rubber type mastic I could use that would “give” but fill the gap?

I bought an old jcb 3cx as I wanted a “ multi tool” I was warned these are very heavy and with our high water table and very wet year it has sunk quite a few times and causes a lot of ground damage, I wished I had bought a swing shovel with tracks now.

Thanks for the heads up, same doors here as well and oak staircase ?.

A lot of the technical stuff above went right over my head ?. Yes, I also considered a 12 volt dc ring initially in my build but previous threads convinced me not too. What might be good from those of you in the know is recommendations for actual products so Luddites like me know we are buying something worth having. ( I want some led flat panels for my kitchen!).