joe90

When I plasterboard a wall I mark the middle of studs (in your case battens) on the ceiling and floor, after the PB is on use a straight edge to mark a line up the board to show where the screws go. I never gap more than 400mm as the board will “give” (bend) too much. Also take a picture with your iPad / phone with tape measure against the wall (I did this with my UFH pipes in case I needed to fix to the floor).

First thing I was taught when I did my project management training was allow 6 hours a day and 4 days a week for the actual work, the extra day/hours were for things that didn’t go to plan.

Our decorator (I hate painting!) used a coloured caulk in the slightly wavy gap between stairs and wall, the stairs are oak and it’s worked very well. The caulk will “give” and can be replaced if necessary.

I am so pleased I did my own plumbing, god there are some right cowboys out there, shame because they all tend to get tarred with the same brush (like builders). This is not rocket science (like my ASHP?).

I had to pay £250 for steel calcs that both my builder and me thought were not needed but the BCO insisted. (We both thought the steels were not needed !!!). Hey ho, small price to pay for getting on with it.

For my Gas run I used https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MDPE-YELLOW-POLY-PE-GAS-PIPE/152509406123?hash=item238244dbab%3Am%3Am6MLmW6c6EMW8nfnEvnjNWw&var=451866159573&_sacat=0&_nkw=yellw+gas+pipe&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=m570.l1313. It had to be buried out side the building, surrounded in sand and “Gas” tape above it, brought up outside the building (kitchen) and converted to copper before entering the building. Had it commissioned recently and curr3ntly cooking my tea with it ?.

+1

Love the views.

Has anyone seen this. https://www.greenbuildingstore.co.uk/mvhr-dos-donts-ducting/, frankly I don’t agree with it but would love to hear input from others. I have used plastic flexible pipework (mine is yet to be commissioned) . They talk about high pressure but as far as I know air pressures is very low. I bent my pipe without crushing it or radii too small. It is smooth bore although ridges externally. My airflow regulation will take place at the manifold to stop noise at the terminal. If put together properly why should it leak!. Yours not convinced!

Never heard of this one, quick google shows it can be a problem on land fill sites, Marsh land, large natural gas pipelines or over coal mines, which are you?.

Wow, that’s good. Not seen that (or would have considered it for our build). I must find out how it works, internet here I come.

Great wiring diagrams Jeremy, thanks (having a real hard time understanding this stuff, I prefer to dig with my JCB ?),

Might be worth Cross nailing to hold in position then apply the hanger to it.

Also you are welcome to pop in to us near Bude, but do realise life is hectic for you at the moment (when has it never been ?).

If you want ply all over then it’s best to sheet out with ply then PB over the top, if you join ply with PB the join will always show (IMO), also ply (unless very thick) will not give you as firm an anchor as batten on wall, as with this you can fix through the sheets, barret then wall for heavy stuff. (have you ever tried to lift a wall cupboard when it’s full of crockery?)

This could not be more wrong for my build and some others I have come across. Mine is simple, no automation (apart from timers etc to run the ASHP) I have adopted the fabric first ideal, lots of insulation and attention to detailing (air tightness) I firmly believe the more tech you have the more it can (and will) go wrong. I do find that now I am retired (tired!) I am becoming a Luddite.

DO make sure that you use the correct nails fir joist hangers, I see so many people just use long clout nails, NO, use proper twist nails, that’s what they are made for.https://www.screwfix.com/p/easyfix-square-twist-nails-sheradised-3-75-x-30mm-1kg-pack/12788 i like “fold over the top” type hangers, feels stronger IMO. and they are thin so should not be a problem with flooring.

Take the units out, much easier in the long run. Put horizontal battens where you know you need fixings (worktop, cabinets floor and wall) then put other battens in between.

Our floor was designed for 600mm spacings but we put them at 400mm as both my builder and I hate floor bounce. We used finnjoists buried in the walls so I am not familiar with pozi joists.

Well I went for 2g, wooden frames made locally (cottage style ), our bi folds are protected by a 2g conservatory so 4g ?. Our window supplier has a glass technician and with coatings got within a nats whisker of 3g in thermal value. Our conservatory is having solar glass in the roof to cut down overheating . Most of our windows are small to fit with the cottage theme.

This is one reason I prefer finnjoists (osb webb) they can be cut to any length as long as they are specced for the longest length and cutting holes in the Webb is easy (as long as they are in the right place and right dimensions.

I would tend to order slightly over length, you can always trim to fit exactly, you can’t add really.

I used to use small metal brackets that had slots in them rather than holes, stainless pan head screws in the middle of the slot and not too tight. All oak worktops I have fitted come with instructions on fitting and treatment.

Quote “ there is no such thing as right and wrong there is only opinion”.

I always left a small gap at the rear of wood worktops for expansion and contraction and fixed the upstand to the wall and used 1mm spacers between the two, when dry remove the spacers and use a clear silicone to seal the gap, this will allow the two to move slightly and retain a water tight seal.