joe90

Just copy the one your making for outside ???????

No mention of its construction or insulation method?

Whatever you can without compromising the gradient.

I remember studying straw bale build a few years ago and worried about fire, apparently it’s only during its construction that it’s dangerous, because the straw is lime rendered all over its cocooned in limestone. I saw a photo of the aftermath of the fires in California and the only walls standing in a group of houses was a straw bale build, roof all gone (timber) but walls still standing when everything else around it was razed to the ground! Interesting!.

Which is why I have an extra wide cavity filled with it. As I understand it foam insulation is also a petroleum product so not “green”.

+1 to those three points ?

I have never been a fan of “plastic” insulation because of the fire risk, I have this insulation below my slab but it’s encased in concrete so very unlikely to catch fire. I cannot believe that building regs allowed Grenfell to be insulated as it was and hope we all learn that lesson.

My large workshop is not insulated and a bit draughty and would cost a fortune to heat but I installed an IR heater above the bench for when I am stood there and it works great (as long as I don’t move about). When I am not at the bench working mid winter it’s thermal underwear and bobble hat!

If you have clay to loose (I just paid a fortune to have mine taken away) then use it, if not “A” is my bet (but will cost more in stone). Around here (heavy yellow clay) they don’t recommend using Drainage pipe as it can block, they recommend stone only. I have several French drains around my build (stone only) and they work well.

I have a hand cutter but also used an old trowel and support (can’t remember what this method is called).

I think I it’s too solid for a ridge tile, I believe it’s a saddle wall coping stone. Perhaps the most common, saddle - or twice-weathered - wall coping stones are shaped in a similar way to a hip roof, with the same end goal of maximising water runoff. These wall copings are designed to direct water to either side as they are angled on both sides with a ridge running down the centre. Usually, these are found on garden walls and balustrading, where it doesn’t matter which direction the runoff goes. They may also have ‘drip grooves’ on the underside of the overhanging section of the coping, which prevent water from dripping onto the wall itself and causing damage. Saddle wall coping stones can come with a pointed ridge or can be rounded at the top. Either serve the same purpose, so it’s usually an aesthetic decision to opt for one over the other.

I bought a 60 year old manual dumper and regret it, if the load is not bone dry it will not tip, load sticks to the bucket, get a 4w drive like @scottishjohn says, you will get most of your money back, I wish in had done this ?

Oh bugger, sorry brain in neutral ?. My condensate drain from my ASHP just drops on the floor no indication in the MIs to connect it to anything!!!!

I don’t have a condensate drain, mine is “empathic” or something like that ???, means the core absorbs moisture and transfers it. As long as your drain has a trap to stop smells coming into your MVHR unit. There have been other threads about a trap inside the house just fir the MVHR unit drying up (no other water input into the trap) and smells going into the unit (the house). You can get waterless traps (apparently).

Funny how a company called “plastics-express” sell cast iron grids ?, yup, go for the 40mm reducer , no chance of other crap going down there ?

I don’t see why not, I tried to find a round grid to fit a 110mm socket unsuccessfully .

if both parties agree and you both have evidence (written) of that agreement why would land registry contest it?

I second @PeterW about a JCB, long reach. Get a machine with driver and he will do it half the time you will and make a good job. You may well be able to sell the topsoil, it’s not cheap to buy.

I like that, simple, flexible but not sure I would want to put a washing machine on it ? (didn’t @pocster say that was one of his items?).

“work smarter not harder” an expression I heard years ago and follow whenever I can, anyone can knock their gonads off!!!

They didn’t do that with mine, if I had known I would have liked the extra protection .

No, Jeremy mentioned a problem with a neighbours bonfire causing smoke/smell in his house with his MVHR, he just turned it off fir a while. WIth regard a noisy smelly road, yes another plus for MVHR.

You just need a reducer https://www.toolstation.com/solvent-weld-reducer/p27594?store=FB&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&gclid=CjwKCAjwsO_4BRBBEiwAyagRTaxA31u9giMEJBDW9KvfN1ElfwSotlxnhRsE0Gr126B6n0m8IpHOBBoCNXEQAvD_BwE

yes, and let her prove her case.

Another here that installed MVHR but I must admit we are “open window” people so frankly during the summer I switch it off. I always said I thought it would be better controlled by a “poor air quality stat” but they don’t exist!!! (Threads on this subject have existed in the past).