joe90

I am also late to this but reading the thread I noticed the above. Who did you hand over the build too? Surely whoever you handed over too (and paid) is responsible if the drawings show the stone cladding, if not this “project manager” should have confirmed every detail. I project managed my own build (plus doing loads myself) and at the risk of repeating myself to the builder double checked every detail. its easier to do a job properly first time then try to put it right afterwards .

So if the plastic is stuck to the rubber all round that’s good, best not disturb it, just get that Mortor out and do what @PeterW says above by wedging the plastic down and filling with sealant. (IMO).

I agree, yes get that Mortor out and replace with good quality flexible sealer, 35mm is adequate in my opinion. I have used this and it has very good reviews https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-lead-sheet-sealant-grey-310ml/21594

Is the blue upstand 150mm (which is the height it should be to stop “rain bounce”, also can you poke about and find out how far into the wall it goes?

@Jeremy Harris ran two to his kitchen if I remember correctly, thing is you cant instal one later if it’s required ?

@nod If it’s a planning application that you are interested in surely it’s local to you? Go visit and have a peek and report back here.

Interesting. I agree with sealant and (maybe) lead flashing. I was going to mention brick sealer, I did this on our build as the west wall catches driving rain from the Atlantic not far away, dead easy to apply by brush and when I pointed the hose at the wall later the water ran off the bricks like they were glass.

Hello and welcome, looking forward to more info and many questions, a real helpful bunch here.

The only thing I would change with my new build is to use resilient bars and/or double boarding. Despite ceiling insulation to latest spec and single 12.5 PB sound can be heard between floors ?

I believe the wonky Mortor is definitely a leak and raking out the motor and replacing with a flexible sealant is a first step, you proved this by pouring water over the joint?. Is the flat roof an addition or built with the house? Only asking as you think the weeps may be under the flashing (can you get your hand up there??).

You can get full bore 15mm isolation valves, but can only find compression types.

As said above it should be sealant (flexible ) not Mortor . I agree that it appears the wall has no cavity tray and no weep vents.

I thought you were making that up, but, yes, sweet little thing.

I suppose it depends on how involved or capable the owner is. I am an ex builder and have done all the specification and acted as project manager so a third party would be a waste of money (in fact my main contractor appointed his project manager but he never had to come to site). Someone with no knowledge of the building trade or the specifics of what has been specified would need someone to help with the finer details.

and me, lovely place to rock climb (if your into that sort of thing). Not been there fir a while.? Long way for me now I have moved to North Devon.

Wow, I have travelled the Llangollen canal, lovely location ?

If sandstone is only 1ft below grade then no point in piling (IMO). Wait till the arbo man has been (and be there when he is) and discuss with him.

surely that depends on the clay content?, lots of clay = lots of muck, little clay should be ok?

inserts are penny’s, go buy some more (and take a bit of pipe to make sure they are tight!!!). Only problem with plastic is scratching the pipe where fittings go, this can lead to weapy joints, keep the pipe clean and scratch free and it will be fine. If an old Luddite like me can be converted to plastic anyone can ?

If full plans are passed why the involvement of the technician? If the builder can’t work it out you/he should ask the BI what they want surely?

sorry mate, I am not a tiler and only did what was recommended here by another “professional”, just relating what I did. So, can you explain how to use matting, is it stuck to the floor?, how does it work? I would love to understand how it works.

most of my downstairs is tiled and I did not use matting ??? (and I have UFH) ?

+1 to tile the lot first.

funnily enough he did and noticed a “slight bounce”. Where the removal bloke went through the floor was where the old ladies bed was which was the worst spot (plus the removal guy was a lot bigger than my mate ( 9 stone soaking wet!).

When we sold my parents house after they passed away a buyers surveyor made a lot of assumptions that just were not true. Biggest was he said the chimney breast in the front room had been removed (not true) with no support for the chimney breast above (wardrobes had been built either side of the chimney breast) if he had only opened the doors To the wardrobe he could see the wardrobes were deeper than that between them, unbelievable.