joe90

And I did, I made my own up in the end with a simple single room stat.

I use an oil stone, with oil and won’t lend my chisels to anyone!

or a longer hooky thing!

As I said above, waiting till the last minute to do anything (but they may be under funded/staffed/managed). I would have thought validation should have found this out!

ha, I could not even get planning fir a standard looking cottage in the countryside, imagine getting planning fir that down here, NOT A CHANCE!

I would want steps equal (and building regs also say this, if they apply). Measure the total height difference and divide by 3 (IMO) and build Up the steps with timber , step depth also equal so new bottom step = middle step depth. Skirting as per @Carrerahill picture above.

its also not my style but I appreciate the workman ship, as for the above. KISS, love it

If not using t+g best to use noggins under joins, also to leave 3mm gap between boards for expansion, best choice is t+g tho, writing side up leaves a small gap for resin to bond the joint.

With my planning “war” I found they were fire fighting, only dealing with it at the last possible moment then finding something to delay the process. The appeal process was far better, timely and informative.

Don’t talk to me about fecking planners!!!!

https://www.fibreglassroofingkits.co.uk/blog/post/What are the best boards for a GRP flat roof/ Info I have always used pre formed angle, GRP to top surface, smooth finish to front, same with up stands (but other way up).

my only worry is relative humidity at that time of year even if it’s not raining, @SteamyTea will correct me now ????.

you mean you weren’t impressed with the way your roofer did it!!!, GRP can look very good if done correctly and is my choice fir flat roofs.

Or, you could cut the roofing decking Parts and pre treat them with GRP, you then only have to do the joins, I have never done this but read about it.

I have come across several GRP roofs that have failed after the fact and due to moisture either in the air or within the deck. (I didn’t do them ?) As @SteamyTea says, bullet proof if done well and VERY dry. I have done a few and only when absolutely no rain is forecast and decking just put down to guarantee it holds no moisture.

very!!!!, any damp whatsoever will spoil it (not sure why and how but @SteamyTea will be along in a mo to explain).

is that so you can put “it” on your rhubarb? ?

Alternative? https://www.coopersofstortford.co.uk/garden/st08286i/?SKU=8286&src=gbase&vsrc=igb9b2&gclid=Cj0KCQjwnqH7BRDdARIsACTSAdt8av_lTCwQZ1jdFs8-BAXxdXQNrvY_FhxrhGdW0tXWBU5V0WSotpAaAg4AEALw_wcB

Petrol or electric (big price difference), frankly an electric one would suit me as needed near the house/garage.

Many moons ago I was contemplating building in straw bale and looked into buying scaffolding including a corrugated iron roof so I could complete in the dry, I was informed I would get most of my money back when selling it as long as I oiled the couplers so don’t discount it.

After watching all the leaves fall onto my new gravel I shall be watching this thread closely (although I am thinking of a leaf vacuum so I can make leaf mould)

You call it a store but what’s in a name?, with my planning I have a detached workshop but called it a garage just to make sure it was covered in the VAT rules. If during your planning application you called it something that was convertible then you might be ok.

Frankly after some (bright) bod on here showed the losses through stainless ties was minimal, I didn’t bother and used stainless (someone will come along now and prove me wrong?‍♂️

In a previous life when I worked fir BT, one of my specialisms was BT kit near generating systems or high voltage kit something called “rise of earth potential” meant we had to protect our network as the earth potential could rise if a high voltage system went faulty and actually cause damage to people or kit at the exchange or joints along the way. Basically “line isolators” had to be installed but so many people in the electrical business had not heard of it and took some convincing it was needed . Might of worked in this instant (but not required) .

please don’t, it’s fixable, honest It might be fir him but not for most people (me included) an angle grinder and a flap wheel to take off the rough bits (as long as you don’t go right through, but even if you did it’s patchable) and a bit of topcoat will fix it. flat is ok, I had a GRP roof that had a dip in it (no I didn’t do it!) and a permenant puddle existed in wet weather but it was ok. @ProDave has an old GRP boat, they go on for many years. time to move on, no one has died, consider it a learning experience and onwards to the next hurdle ?‍♂️