joe90

Gorgeous stonework, lovin it. ?

Not in Scotland myself but BC only interested in the cert fir an unvented cylinder here fir my DIY ASHP instal

So did I, but if damp I still say instal a French drain . Which way does the cobble yard slope?.

but have you decided on which floor yet?

Cement Is “green” fir about a week (according to my builder), my west wall in block blew over, twice, during my build. Last time they built it they shored it with timber fir a week. Brickie admitted he drove past here 12 o’clock at night as he was worried it would not stay up. (We are fairly near the Atlantic). I would delay if at all possible, it’s all about risk management .

As my windows were made by a local small producer they only took 4 weeks (if I remember correctly) I have heard their lead time is now longer as their good reputation spreads. As @PeterW says, why not make formers.

plus with tighter grain it will shrink less.

Yes, ours came with the instruction to fill with water to match the level of concrete as it was backfilled.

I am struggling to understand the question ?, plans and pictures will help (if only pencil sketches).

40mm granite chips, most leaves blow away here (next to the Atlantic) but fir those that don’t I clear them up occasionally.

Yes mine has membrane then “fancy” stone on top. Pipe from this goes to boundary drainage ditch.

I would consider a French drain, trench next to the wall backfilled with stone (no fines) to direct any ground water away from the building.

but is it good enough???. More thorough testing IMO.

As my walls are brick I didn’t want odd brick bits (yes OCD) So got the bricklayer to only lay whole or half bricks giving door and windows openings at an approximate size, then I had bespoke windows and doors made to fit those openings.

Makes you wonder if random testing of materials by independent means is required.

Very interesting article, especially NHBC changing their opinion suddenly.

100mm will give you a stiffer wall but is that needed?, you could get more sound insulation in as well, if required, mine are 400mm spacings with noggins/dwangs at board joins.

No mate, not dodgy just not suitable fir this problem. IMO.

I used this around my windows when fitting them but it expands fast, even if kept cool (fridge) but it’s difficult to get in a small gap.

No, angled the other way????? The mind boggles, will try to find it on catchup

yes, good idea as your (hopefully) only stopping “splashing”. If it works you could always use the sealer over the top afterwards (if you want).

With regard windows I am not a fan of triple glazing and I had my wooden windows made with double glazing but with clever soft coatings is within a gnats whisker of being like triple glazing and the frames are smaller and lighter.

@Elle an airtight building (like mine) has MVHR, this is fresh air brought into the building, pre warmed with stale/damp air which is exhausted . It means you don’t have to have trickle vents. Many here say their air quality is better with MVHR than relying on open windows. Bristol is built in a bowl and the air quality is not good so an MVHR will also filter the air to an extent. Unlike some here I turn mine off in the summer as we like open doors and windows in good weather. Windows need not be small (unless they face North) it’s all about balance and good quality glazing. That plot in Hotwells slopes South so very good for capturing solar gain both fir PV and windows.

@Kilt Do you fancy an oak beam as a solution? Is the UFH under the timber frame walls either end?

you mean Hotwells ?, very central location but a very steep slope, nice views tho and short walk to the centre.