joe90

Oh dear, if it’s an old cottage or something then an oak beam across the room downstairs will be more in keeping , what are the walls made of? Brick. (I hope) so beam could be set in them or oak angled brackets! rather than steel rod just steel cable, say 10mm threaded through and up to loft fir when you get that far, remember it’s not structural just a means of reducing “sagging”.

My vote is the gutter roofing sealant as it’s made fir “outdoor wet stuff” that deals with rainwater.

had to look that up, FAT ?

Thinking out of the box, your first floor plans show bath 2 and en suite with a “ Stud wall?” To bedroom, can you not use steel rods up through that stud wall at intervals to “hang” the floor on and put steel in the loft!

I agree, so I don’t see the problem with sealing where I said as no brickwork to absorb water. Not come across tiger seal but I have used Screwfix roofing and gutter sealant and it’s good, turns to a black rubber flexible sealant. as the problem is rain “splash” (apparently) even some rubber tubing squeezed up there would stop it happening.

My first thought was an underslung glulam beam, brackets or posts at ends.

@pocster is this drawing correct? Does the roof felt go up behind the metal frame?

Jimbo, not sure I agree, the roofing should run up that upstand so if you fill the gap between metal frame and vertical roofing felt it’s not a problem @pocster can you confirm if roofing felt does this?. Also there is no brickwork to absorb moisture.

Landing half newel post? ( I ave one as well). Lovely job @ProDave well done (your wasted being an electrician ?)

Just came across this article, looks very “green”. https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-somerset-54998416

https://www.discountleisureproducts.co.uk/pond-supplies-c1/pond-pipe-and-fittings-c20/hose-fittings-c88/tefen-6mm-90-degree-bend-hose-elbow-plastic-barbed-flexi-pipe-fitting-p953/s1137?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=tefen-6mm-90-degree-bend-hose-elbow-plastic-barbed-flexi-pipe-fitting-6mmlbo&utm_campaign=product%2Blisting%2Bads&cid=GBP&gclid=CjwKCAiA7939BRBMEiwA-hX5J96s4DS7ba6xJlJyk-B05HlTH-6Te3PbaoxUq6NdKcK8Y5vogA9luBoCW2kQAvD_BwE

How about using this. https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-roof-gutter-sealant-black-310ml/67521 If you can get a small 90’ bend tube to fit on the end of the nozzle you could squirt it up in. ?

Stone should be allowed to breath, many believe that painting stone leads to degradation. Your render on the extension will be cement so should be waterproof itself so non breathable paint is not a problem . Many old buildings were pebble dashed or rendered to make them waterproof but can lead to more problems than they solve. Frankly with your small area and in a porch may not be a problem so crack on.

How do you know it’s not a hairline crack between glass and frame from the top. I guess this is siliconed?

@pocster, it’s not condensation is it?

problem with that is it won’t breath, but if your satisfied with the other you have done that’s good.

Now that I am old and feeble ?, the last ceiling I did fir my son we used 6x3 12.5mm (could not get 8+4 up the stairs!) (honest!) and bought a second hand, but nearly new plasterboard lifter. It was brilliant, we also double boarded the ceiling as he wanted more sound Insulation. We sold the lifter fir what we paid fir it.

Might seem tame but everyone who has visited my build has commented on my angled window and door reveals, very “cottage” and I did them myself ?

how?, draw us a diagram of the installation.

Or if done by a builder “having insurance”.

Oops, was it a builder or a DIY job?

Lime pointing is not like cement, neat, flat etc, it’s just rammed in and some lightly brush the surface to get a “cottage” effect.

Wot they said ?. Lime does take ages to go off so don’t worry, it’s not like cement but it’s what your place was probably built with in the first place. Try this.

+1, and report back here ?