joe90

??? now you know why they stick tape on glass on building sites???.

I would agree, I have come across several house sales where indemnity policies were sold for no real gain (IMO) just a money maker for solicitors and insurance agencies. I notice @Mrsrc has not come back to this topic!.

This from the planning portal Building regulations approval is required to convert a loft or attic into a liveable space. If you decide to create a liveable space (a 'liveable space' is where you intend to use the room as a normal part of your house, including spare bedrooms which may be used infrequently) in an existing loft space of a home it is likely to require a range of alterations. ”living space “ is where I was told the difference is.

one thing I have noticed working in different parts of the country is there appears no “National standard” applied by different BCO,s. There have been many threads on this forum involving BCO decisions that contradict others. Welcome by the way, a BCO here will be a great asset.

I have done quite a few “illegal “ loft conversions ?, structural floor, insulated, plasterboarded, velux, quality pull down loft ladder, not intended for “a living space” purely quality storage. ( a good friend is a BI and he confirmed they are ok).

Are you saying anything done before this date does not need building regs? It’s been suggested before there is a cut off date regarding this kind of work. My son has a Victorian house that was built originally with a room in the loft but there is no way it would pass building regs but was mortgaged as the loft room was accepted.

duh ?

All good idea,s above, do whichever you feel comfortable with.

Mine was in screed. I drilled 25mm holes through concrete block internal walls and used 300mm lengths of overflow pipe to feed the UFH pipe through. It was like this

This is what I have done, heating is only on fir a few winter months and in that time the buffer is always topped up and controlled by a tank stat. When the room stat calls for heat the manifold pump has instant heat from the buffer.

Mine was designed by Wunda but I changed some things. Rather than always going through doorways, which made the hallway and doorways very crowded I opted for going through some walls with conduit. Also I did reverse serpentine to even out the temperature spread. I also kept away from outside walls more than they planned. I also scrapped the hallway loop as there was enough pipework there from feeding different rooms. It all works ?.

nothing wrong with an iPad fir use on this forum ?(from another old stick in the mud with an iPad ?).

I remember reading somewhere that best practice is to put a layer of waxed paper between layers of insulation to restrict air flow but this must be a nightmare to try and actually do this in a loft ?.

@willbish make sure in your letter you give him a definite time to respond otherwise he will string it out forever.

My vote is line up grout lines on the long wall which you will see when sat on the karzey. Trust me no one else will ever notice whatever you do (but you will?).

Insulation is fine but it only stops heat that you have from escaping quickly. If your heating is not working as it should all the insulation in the world will not make the place warm. I have masses of insulation in my new build but if the heating stops working eventually the place will go cold.

Wood should be ok, I would try to stop the water/rain getting behind it. You could drop the timber down a bit, and put lead into the wall and draped over the wood a little, Also the wood being lower (say 20mm) would create a drip so water will not track back to the glass etc.

my airing cupboard is central to the first floor which has no heating apart from towel rads in the bathrooms so any heat lost from the cylinder helps the bedrooms a little (good planning ??..).

I have said this many times, it’s only wasted in summer when house heating is not required and the windows may be open .

I know little of court cases etc but I know if you have a problem with say a builder, in the first instance you must give them the opportunity to put the work right. I feel it would not be unreasonable for you to put the report to the person in question and ask for the sum required with a statement that if he does not you will take it to court and claim costs as well.

Yes, if it’s a catnic often plasterboard is stuck to or thick plaster is used on the inside. Frankly if there was no lintel in there it would have collapsed before now,!!, just fix what you want over those bricks and it will be fine ?

It’s probably a catnic lintel, get a strong magnet and see if it will stick to the underside of the render, that will prove if there is any steel in there.

Personally I would get a recommended local loft conversion company round, they will know the regs but they may need to “cut” into stuff to see what’s there and they could give you an estimate to do any work required.

Losses are also directly related to water temperature. My Telford DHW cylinder has little losses (no figures but SWMBO says the airing cupboard is not warm enough ?) as I heat my DHW to 48’ only, but the cylinder is larger as I don’t blend with cold as much.

Surely worth a try before spending even more money, can’t do any harm!