joe90

Smart, but I would prefer louvres to the front/side to restrict airflow less.

To be honest I don’t know but I have only seen it defrost once in over a year of working. I don’t have any measuring kit (well @SteamyTea has some kit here but I don’t know what it’s measuring etc). I am on Octopus variable rate, pay per month on usage. When I get my ass in gear I need to work out if it’s worth going E7 so may need to talk to @SteamyTea about what measuring kit I need.

+1 wot @ProDave said. UFH in a slab is cheap to instal and very easy to DIY. I bought my ASHP on Ebay dead cheap and installed it myself. From what I have read on many threads here the only people with problems boil down to bad design, bad instal, bad set up. I am more than pleased with mine.

Suggest you read this. https://www.stovefitterswarehouse.co.uk/pages/do-i-need-an-air-vent-for-a-wood-burning-stove in older properties permanent air vent required for stoves over 5Kw.

nope, nothing has changed (but I have finished my build ?).

Wash your mouth out ?

No, my ASHP only has one temperature setting, but I have a buffer tank to allow heating water to be blended down for UFH. (I have no radiators).

My DHW is set to 48’ from my ASHP and I have to add a little cold to a bath as it’s too hot (and I love a hot bath rather than a tepid one).

Brave boy! I don’t like the idea of wall hung (in theory), regarding “lift up” I guess ct1 as a gasket on the back before it’s bolted to the wall would take up any slack?

We went brick and block, we wanted a brick outer skin (no maintenance and good looking) and I hate hollow sounding walls, also I believe in heavy weight (thermal mass ?). Cavity is 200mm rockwall batts, airtight layer is wet plastering, attention to detail (see @ToughButterCup point above) I am not convinced on the longevity of tapes and membranes. I can hang the heaviest of “stuff“ on any wall.

Go for it......and report back.

No, but I bought one as backup to top up ASHP DHW but not found it necessary.

I concur! None of mine line up.

My thoughts exactly (but I have no warranty to consider).

That’s what I said pages ago!!!!,!,

How about two scaffold tubes, one fixed to the floor/wall/bench, other slid over bar and “grunt”. I have used bits of my JCB before now to hold metal whilst I lean on it (8.8 tons ain’t going anywhere).

almost, but not. I only learnt because I made the same mistake as you originally. Dry set up the basin, stand etc, pencil mark on the wall where the pipes should go (perhaps a mm lower to give a fall on the waste pipe. But as you say difficult to get mm perfect. Different traps are different dimensions also?.

I did learn to dry set up basins etc to work out exactly where all pipes should be .

Perhaps they expect people to put the pipes in at the right height ??. Think I’ll go and glue some pipes incorrectly. ????

Welcome, No such things as dumb questions, dumb is not asking, don’t be afraid, we all started somewhere.

hooray!!! Then I am sure it will be explained why and how you need to proceed.

If he bothers, mine just said “oh you have got MVHR so don’t need trickle vents” others here have had to give figures (I had a copy of someone else’s results and cut and pasted my details on them in case he asked ?). It’s also been said that some BC,s have asked for a “qualified” person to design and instal the MVHR but its been established there is no “qualifications “ (unlike part p for electrics). I would just leave the seal off the door. With our cloakroom the door should open outwards to meet building regs, my BC spotted it opens inwards but said “if I make you change it round you will only put it back after sign off!” So he let it go. As we live in a very rural location and like windows open in the summer there is no need (IMO) fir MVHR to run them so I switch mine off. If you were in a town with pollution and noise it would make sense to leave it on all year. I toyed with the idea of a sensor that only switched the MVHR on when the air quality was bad but was told this is more difficult than it sounds, we do have a RH detector so when the relative humidity is high (bath, shower, cooking) it ramps up to boost.

But that has an open flue so one big draught! I think that is illegal (forget to open it and your all dead). i have 10mm gaps under all my doors and can’t say I notice a noise issue (but I don’t have young kids!!,) you could always get a sausage draught excluder thingy,!!! re the laundry room just try it, one small room excluded from the MVHR might not be a problem (But I would put the pipes in anyway in case it’s needed, you can always blank them off. Quite a few here use the laundry room with MVHR to dry their clothes with a lot of success.

I think this all depends on your usage, kids, how many, future plans. Make it fit fir your purpose. My build is only three bed (no kids, well grown up ones that visit) but a large en suite on the main bedroom, two other large bedrooms and a family shower room , one bedroom can be used as an office but has large double bed settee. If anyone else wants to stay the caravan is outside ?.

Can you not get another 135’ bend on instead of that 90’ bend?, all in line then???.