joe90

My heart goes out to you, I know ziltch about render unfortunately, I hope others that know more can help ?. (Is there a renderers forum???) @nod may know !

Yep, in good weather windows are flung open with gay abandon (despite my protestations ?‍♂️) some people just don’t get what MVHR does then complain when the house is too hot (cus the open windows let the heat in !!,!,!!).

Nah, I am tight and a Luddite ?

just had a thought, my heating has not been on at all for at least a month, the UFH and towel rads are still on. It will still be a month or two before they go off (along with the MVHR).

Short answer is yes. Charcoal filters in a Recirculating hood, extract from MVHR along same wall. We don’t fry a lot and have never regretted not having an extract. Following the odd “oops I forgot I put that on” either boost on the MVHR or open a couple of windows for a short time, but happens very rarely (when I concentrate!!!).

@daiking, you didn’t forget the window cill did you??‍♂️

Oh I don’t know, I would want the gaps above because timber shrinks across its grain which means all those logs will shrink a little and the roof will come down a few mm, window frame verticals will hardly shrink at all so those gaps (IMO) will get less in time. Perhaps put some non setting mastic, or foam in them. I remember reading that in real log cabin kits any vertical logs had threaded expansion bolts at the top and the nut was turned one turn down per year to accommodate the shrinking of the logs.

+1 for a gas safe engineer to move/cap that pipe, even if there is no lintel only a small triangle of bricks will fall by removing what you want, you can then put in your own lintel (at the height you want) and infill above it ?

Exactly what I used ?

Oh yes, most people think central heating in every room is a must, only because it’s what they have known in very poorly insulated housing which is the norm, yes, but if no hot radiator they may see through that ????. I had to buy cheap digital thermostats in most rooms of my new build to prove that the rooms are not cold. My last house had no insulation but red hot radiators and was told it was warm when in fact it was not , the walls and air was bloody freezing but you could feel the heat coming from the radiators (which quickly left). Give me a well insulated and airtight house any day of the week.

Nor me, just plug in heaters in case of very cold weather but never used. (I do have an electric blanket tho ?‍♂️).

I did, UFH came with timer and built in stat, just timer fir towel rad ?

I have electric UFH in our ensuite on a timer, one hour before rising and one hour before bedtime with LVT (which is warmer than tiles anyway) only used in winter and worth every penny when you have removed your clothes ?. rather than dedicated point for heaters they all come with three pin plugs so plenty of sockets (yet to use one in the bedroom but er indoors occasionally uses one in the upstairs office when working).

not on this forum or anywhere that’s up to date with modern/efficient building methods!.

It’s dead easy, I have done a few, just need to wait till the surface can be walked on without leaving deep marks (sure there is a Utube vid to watch), most hire shops stock them, probably best to get the pour done early am and should be floatable later that day. Don’t leave it too long or the machine will just bounce off the surface. The knack is tilting the handle up and down to get it to move the direction you want ?.

@DragsterDriver you have not mentioned heating method, if ASHP then slab with UFH is the most efficient. (I have it in a near passive build and it’s great). Insulated slab with pipes in it, power floated will give you a finish for anything you want and a nice flat platform to build off. ?

not just electricity, any single source of power, it’s called diversity.

I think these changes will be gradual, fir example in my rural location with no access to mains gas, pre heat pumps I would have to choose direct electricity, bottled gas or oil. The life of a combi is about 10 years (so I have read somewhere) so in 10 years technology and prices will have changed. I don’t like the idea of being reliant on only one fuel/technology I.e. electricity.

I do like the idea of using a gas network to distribute hydrogen and for it to be used in vehicles to give quick re fuel if it can be made efficiently. If everything “goes electric” will the National Grid” cope?

I have never heard of box gutters lined with PIR, why??

Welcome, we are all ears!!!

Good morning and welcome. I am a fan of GRP and it would be my method of choice, as said many times before here it has to be very dry to do the GRP work, not sure if you have done any before?. If not there are many u tube vids to show you how. I have done a fair bit of GRP flat roofs, box gutters etc .

I was once (a long time ago ?)

Cost/work benefit, cost an additional feet verses shifting stone/dust and levelling and compacting ?.

I thought you said you had them?, not enough?