joe90

No, it sets chemically, once it starts going off forget it, you can only throw it away.

Have next door been told the same?. I once replaced a staircase in an old cottage but it was steeper than new regs so I retained one small piece of wood and told the BI I had repaired it not replaced it and he just laughed at me but let me keep it.

Glass itself cannot leak unless it cracked/broken so replacing the glass is a non starter. You really need to establish where the leak is coming from which is not easy as water tends to track through the smallest crack/space. It could be the frame, the frame to roof upstand joint or the roof itself. Can you get up there and look for the smallest of holes or cracks to establish what can be done.

Just read this about hydrogen being used for house heating..... Burning hydrogen in pure oxygen just produces H2O. However, hydrogen would normally be burnt in air and some of the ferociously active oxygen atoms combine with nitrogen in the air to form NOx. There are no carbon atoms for the oxygen atoms to combine with, so a higher proportion combines with nitrogen from the air to form NOx. For this reason burning hydrogen in air produces up to six times as many NOx emissions as burning methane in air.

I have no idea what my deflection calcs were for my floors but 12mm sounds an awful lot, my builder agreed with me on solid feeling floors, calcs done with 600mm spacing but installed at 400mm spacing and it feels very solid.

I too didn’t want trickle vents and as we live in an area of high winds at times any draught would be uncontrollable . I bought a cheap MVHR on Ebay (ex bankrupt stock) and DIY installed it myself. Frankly in summer I turn it off as windows and doors are left open but in winter the air is always fresh and it runs itself. I have never got round to properly balance it ?but it works fine.

I was but only because I am OCD at planning stuff, and I gave myself some leeway in case of minor errors. Most of my drain runs were in line with joists so no problem with fall and access. On the sound insulation front, it’s the only thing I would change if possible (to late now), I wish I had double boarded or/and sound bars fir the ceilings, despite 100mm of insulation between joists I am disappointed with the sound travel between floors (and I was careful to fill any gaps around the floors).

I feel for you after battling our planners for several years, if it comes to it then go to appeal, I did (myself) and found the process quite easy and dealt with far better than the planning process itself, best of luck.

Or use I joists https://elliotts.uk/i-joist-faqs

My build is similar to yours but with 200mm cavity and dritherm and I discounted them as it will make min difference, on another thread they talk about making your own and buying the rods in length (can’t remember the thread ?‍♂️) and very much cheaper than specific wall ties.

Yes timber drying out IMO and timber always moves a little so I second non setting caulk.

No, even my brand new ones have slightly dark areas , it’s the firing that does it. Again it’s an old cottage, anything too new will look out of place IMO.

My carbon monoxide is battery only and was passed by BC (In England)

My son and partner runs a pub , my daughters partner is a roofer and despite working outdoors found people were very reluctant to have strangers at their house so he was furloughed by his boss, my daughter worked in a restaurant.

My take on this is no house is 100% sealed, doors open and shut, people come and go. My woodburner is air feed from outside, yes when the door is open to start it and wood is added it’s “leaking” but mine has never been a problem. I too like the idea of positive pressure from the MVHR and in summer i switch it off as we open windows and patio doors.

It may be for some (who choose to break the rules) but for others its been a life saver I.e my son and daughter and their partners and quite a few others I know.

Whilst I have had problems with planners myself you still can’t break the rules, so yes, they should be demolished as an example. Muppets!

+1 what @ProDave said above. (He beat me to it). edit, sorry, just read of your health problems and situation, yes, bad housing is so rife and affects health so much. It looks like that crack on the outside has been monitored in the past, it’s done by gluing pieces of glass across the crack and if the glass cracks the crack is getting worse (you can see the dabs of glue on the wall. The mold can be dealt with by heating and ventilation in the short term but I do realise that’s costly.

I hope you have better luck than me, regarding a planning dispute over access highways were not interested, took me nearly 6 months of badgering to get them to site, when they arrived asked what the problem was and after I explained they told me they could not comment as it was a planning matter FFS eventually got them to respond by saying they had no objection, that’s the best I could yet put of them......

I agree , depends on where it is but have the water tested and use it if you can.

I have no individual zones just the ground floor (6 loops) controlled by a stat in the hallway, to make the lounge a little warmer I upped the flow to that loop from the manifold.

Yes but a UPVC window has drainage holes underneath so you must make sure any water/condensation can run out of these and down the outside of the cill otherwise it will sit there and rot the cill.

very little diagonal stability IMO. (Sorry I am bored ?‍♂️) in all seriousness sleeper walls sound the ticket, my foundations are in permanent wet ground and strip foundations.

No, angle grinder (small), you do have one right? If not...https://www.screwfix.com/p/mac-allister-msag750-750w-4-electric-angle-grinder-220-240v/970. (You know you want one right?) Clean them before laying (they need to be clean ish on the back so they stick,