joe90

My nephew just bought a new house on an estate, the garden flooded first time it rained (solid yellow clay 50mm below turf) and the on suite shower tray was so out of level it would not drain and overflowed the “high” end, they had to take the whole floor up and use firings to level up the joists underneath ?‍♂️

I didn’t with mine but sealed the concrete with two coats of sealer, one left to dry, the second still tacky when tiling. my tiles are black to absorb heat into the floor to keep the conservatory warm during the evening/night. (Works very well), no cracking or settling at all ?

I tiled my conservatory 10m x 2.6m with 300mm x 300mm x 9mm porcelain tiles. Flexi adhesive, no decoupling mat, back butter the tiles, no expansion gap (but 10mm gap around the outside covered by skirting). And flexi silicone at doorways (just remembered I for got to do that, note to self!!,)

Yes and if it’s not right you will kick yourself forever, always doing a job properly the first time!!,

You and the rest of us ?, yes 500mm facia will look gross in my opinion, extend the wall and smaller facia will look much better. Good plan ?

Yes the Everedge looks good but I am an avid (die hard) make it myself merchant ?‍♂️, the black mild steel I use is 4mm so won’t rust through in my lifetime.

With mine most will be under ground so very little visible, I fancy circles in the lawn for growing trees, now I need to make myself a “rolling machine “ to create a circle.

I consider that a challenge ?‍♂️

Black mild steel tends to have a rounded edge as it’s rolled in a mill and not cut or machined to shape (another reason it’s cheaper).

Corten steel is much more expensive, I don’t like the very rusty “trendy” look personally.

https://www.peterfudgegardens.com.au/blog/edge-options black mild steel is cheap, it does rust but from visiting National trust gardens, RHS, etc not bright red.

I simply used tantalised 6x1 timber, should last a good 10years in the ground (might see me out ?). I will be using black mild steel for some sharper curves, this is used by the National Trust etc, lasts forever and classic.

All from seed (apart from the furniture, £50 on Ebay)

I stayed in a Hotel a couple of years ago that had a low level light that came on when walking into the en suite at night, brilliant idea I thought and bought myself a motion detector/night time devise and planned some leds below the bathroom mirror, completely forgot about it so better add it to my “to do list”. You can buy led bulbs with built in motion detectors I believe, bought one once, must be in my “to do list drawer” ?.

So change the socket to a non switched one!!!

+1 acceptable, neighbours concrete tiles are thicker than yours so yours has to kick up to meet them ?

another reason I chose brick and block (with bigger cavity).

When I lined my warm loft with OSB I didn’t bother lining up on rafters, instead I joined panels with 100mm strip of OSB, bubble glued and screwed (to make it airtight), saved a lot of waste.

Welcome to THE self build forum. we all say that ?

? that was me!,!!! I used to buy “firmahold” nails and gas and have had no issues. (Apart from lukewarm tea ?).

So what is this dwelling? Pictures, plans?

Join the club ?

Wow, good on you girl, I think you should be nominated as the forums “the negotiator” ?

Very true regarding declaring neighbour disputes but clearly (IMO) the neighbour has broken the rules. Frankly if they get away with this what else will they bulldoze through? Simply getting (if possible) the planners out to visit will start the process, is this not the remit of the “enforcement officer” within the council?

So their decking if definitely too high?