ToughButterCup

Because the user can simply take the plug out of the socket: a DIY job. If its hard wired, its a sparky job innit?

One of those wall plate things, Pete? Bit like for an oven?

The manufacturers of our digester has specified an IP66 rated RCD protected socket for the supply for the poo tank bubbler. The dedicated circuit planned for that supply (SWA 2.5, T+E, buried - 10 meters or so) is already RCBO protected. Do I also need RCD protection on the twin socket , or can I simply fit an IP66 socket in the knowledge that the circuit is already protected by the RCBO? I'd like to bury the SWA cable in the same trench that I dig for the poo tank pipe. Bet that's verboten innit?? Thanks in advance @ProDave or @JSHarris or @Onoff or anyone clever enough to know the answer ☺️

https://support.google.com/websearch/answer/2466433?hl=en

Ahhhh, now I see. The concrete hasn't been removed. Only the PIR. The wooden form work will merely hold the replacement PIR. A bit of concreting will be needed to make up the wall at the bottom of the window. But not much.

I was too mean to Makita, despite heavy pressure to do so. I bought ..... yep.

PMSL.... @daiking, and because my tea is now all down my front and in the keyboard, as penance I looked up the following https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surgical_lighting#Norms_and_requirements_for_surgical_light Lux: The central illuminance should be between 160,000 and 40,000 lux.

True for some. But, frankly, thank God I don't have enough money for a cruise.

If ever there was something to get angry about, really really angry.....

You sayin' we ain't wurf it?

He's a very nice man @lizzie, a very very nice man. Ugly, though.

I'm flattered and surprised you ask here. This discussion board is a little nest of building nerds: nerds, some by qualification but more by experience some of which bitter. Your challenge strikes me as analogous to those here who need (say) a Structural Engineer. Many will accept work in which they have a peripheral understanding and will do a -for them- competent job. But their customer is given an unnecessarily complex - for which read expensive - specification. I think you might well benefit from a thorough networking exercise - among lawyers. You need a tax nerd - one without an over inflated sense of self-worth. Then, when yer all sorted, come 'n arxk us 'ow ter mix a bit 'o mortar like.

Pheeeeew, only just made it. ?

In all probability it won't be. But there'll always be a niggle until it's signed off. We had a similar issue, but 10 meters from the road.... and our roof build up is the same as J's. Are you tall enough to worry about the internal soffit height? I am, so - for us - it's become another of those compromises that everyone makes when self-building. We've rearranged the room furniture to make the necessary allowance.

I think so. Gaulhofer's terms are the same (I'm almost sure). Watch the fitting cost payment terms, though. Ecowin offer a 50% retention - and they've been back a couple of times without question .....

Yes. Durisol is easily shaped and trimmed with any woodworking tool. But, cut faces shatter easily. A simple sheet of Durisol is quite weak. Durisol gets its strength from the block form. All of the boarding will be covered with render, followed by Clober Permoforte and then wood cladding. I'm thinking cement board covering the framework (under the felt and cladding) would do, maybe mounted on an undersheet of OSB?

Yes. Almost. The timber is a framework for the the boarding that will be the outer skin. Inside the boarding I'll put some PIR.

You assume some expertise .... hold on a minute, I do know my way around a Durisol block now ? Right, the story so far today: In order to frame out the gap, I needed to use some left over 3 by 2 (tanalised) rather than smaller section wood because I had to drill into the concrete lattice. I made sure the Thunderbolts were drilled and fixed into the middle of some exposed concrete. The wood pieces are joined with structural timber screws. I'll need to make up a corner-piece to carry final covering. What should that be? OSB3, Marine ply, cement board?

Not sure. But, what an excellent idea for our Winter Garden ( a covered, sheltered ' breeze corridor ' ? ) outside the house. Thanks @MikeSharp01

That was my first thought..... And this is my first job for today : photos by lunchtime. Durisol readily sticks to itself when glued: I tried yesterday. The blocks have a very rough surface, so glue has lots to hold on to. Piccies to follow soon. (Just after the rain arrives up here)

Forgot to say - go to the library. You'll need a wheelbarrow for the books you want to take home. Oh, and - pretty smartish - put a large sheet of waste plastic over the area you want to set to lawn. Stops weeds.

Welcome. Start with a plan. The Head Gardner in my life spends many happy hours fantasizing about (me? ..... nahhhh) what she's going to get me / force me to do . Mind you, if a digger's involved, I'm right there,Mutley-like - and wanting medals when it's done. Visit lots of gardens - Heres where to start. You'll have an extremely enjoyable time. I envy you: greatly.

Now there's a thought...... Yes, it's getting rendered.

Yes, @Redoctober, I'm soooo close to the issue and, truth to be told, annoyed still. In my post above, I made too many assumptions of the reader. The (no doubt good) intention of the Dursiol guy was to move the window 300mm to one side to allow more wall space inside for the shower. I stopped him mid-job (after he'd cut the insulation off the front of the blocks). He hadn't had time to cut through the concrete. The end in mind is to re-instate (repair) the Durisol - as far as that's possible - in the current position. Because the concrete is still intact, all that's needed is for me to replace the front bit of the Durisol blocks. The question is - how? I suspect the answer is KISS. But I have often been told I over-engineer stuff. So to help the KISS process, I thought I'd ask here before inventing some unnecessarily weird and wonderful way of repairing the fronts of the blocks.