ToughButterCup

Thanks Terry...

I venture to suggest that every single one of us on this discussion group has had to face this problem. There's a fairly detailed thread about the matter here

Not you as well Clive!

Exactly @Cpd, which is why I have written a polite email asking for confirmation....

I have done...

Post first fix, a small 2 meter by 2 meter wetroom : labour only £6480.

See @patp, he uses his to store his spare batteries. ..... And the real reason is he can't ever see the red spot....?

Ja, vorsicht aber! Die Gurtwickler sind sehr wichtig. Elektrischer Gurtwickler sind - so zu sagen - empfindlich. Yes, but be careful. The mechanism that raises and lowers the blind is very important: the electric versions are (were when I had some) a bit 'delicate'.

Unsurprisingly I have gone down the Bosch route. Measure : GLM120C (Amazon Warehouse deal) Level: GLL3-300 with the staff and receiver. (On offer from Campbell Miller Tools). I've used the laser measure almost every day : it's far better than any other I have used. I still use a steel tape : Hultafors Talmeter 3M: superbly designed and measures internal distances far better than any other tape I have used. You will find those who argue that lasers are a waste of time: your other half might be otf that opinion too. Keep the receipts, maybe?

Right on Sister!

But, Gary, thats what you find in the average teenager's bedroom - well it was for ours......

Similarly, a quick chat with 'the boys' most Monday mornings, a smile and Christmas bottle works a treat.

Treat it as both. The issue is in any case structural. As such, why bother to ask an SE (Structural Engineer) to become involved before you have double checked the listing issue with the relevant authorities? You might need to phrase your enquiry very carefully indeed, I suspect. For example, you could enquire about repairing the ceiling and listen between the lines ...

I'd like to think that's actually the case. But its difficult to evidence.

How to Lie With Statistics. Published by Penguin Books. Been in print since 1954.

Start with a spike. Watch the thing for a bit: see what happens. If necessary, move the spike. Repeat. Then C40 ( ? ), rebar, all bells and whistles, plastic sleeved hole, hole drained ( so the post rusts more slowly) Make a footpath to the rotary line such that you dont get dirty feet , and a small plinth so you dont need to stoop so far to get the wet washing out of the basket. Keep a set of replacement pegs under the plinth. (Overthinking again Ian?)

Hi! Well come on then , show us whatcha got.... piccies / pdfs please! Or are you a bit shy, maybe?

Wilkomen! Essay? Essay! You wanna see some of the stuff that people post. That @Onoff bloke for example: 80+ pages ......

Because if eventually all goes pear-shaped, he cant be blamed......

Have a look at this list: it should help.

ICF? Its not the answer to every problem, specially not if you lay them in the nude.?

@Roz I would suspect the tradesman is trying to save you money: fitting the barge board later might involve more labour. Its as well to check here, though. I'd wait for other folk to offer an opinion before deciding ... said he cautiously. Well, I'm hardly expert am I? Chatty, yes, expert, no.

If it can't be fixed after the slates, I'm stuffed @Roz .

The book (and the online version) don't go into all that much detail Gary.

That's a bit cheaper than I would have expected. (NW , Lancashire)