ToughButterCup

There are at least a couple dead on the road outside our house every warmish, wet morning.

Need shares in Sikaflex then....

I brief everyone that comes on site (admittedly not that many people now) : only takes a few sentences. Very simple; Live services First aid resources : kits and eyewash station Ask if any H+S resources needed - if so give them what they need Point out that Durisol dust is vicious , and the importance of eye protection Tell them about the location of the local hospitals Site specific hazards - nettles at the moment Ask to check their vans / cars before leaving - the sodding cat is likely to be in the warmest bit of their van (dashboard) point out the location of the loo and kitchen and show them where to make their own tea and coffee. I do this for everyone arriving on site : one delivery driver listened carefully and at the end of the briefing told me that it was over a year since he had been briefed on H+S at any site.

Not so much nightmares as losing sleep: it's now normal to lose sleep - getting a bit p'd off with it too. ?

... without ruining the waterproof seal below the tiles? Look at this: At the moment I plan to suspend the screen from the ceiling - and until I bothered to think about it, intended to fix it to the floor. But then I looked at the issue in detail, I realised that in fixing it to the floor, I would puncture the waterproof seal. Someone has solved this problem before - many by what I now see as dubious means - make slots in the tiles; screw to the floor, and so on. Do I need to re-think the position of the shower ( and therefore shower screen) ?

M2, page 75, here covers it. In brief : exceptionally, yes, you may 'evolve' the scheme, but

Keep your options as open as possible for as long as possible. Model each on a spreadsheet. Life will get in the way and help make the decisions for you. Make yourself as comfortable as you can skiing in front of an avalanche. Avoid alcohol. ?

Thats the point of PHPP. Or @JSHarris spreadsheet. Links available with a bit of googling. Ian

Consider getting the suggested Phase 1 Study done: a study which looks at existing data and makes a judgement on the extent to which a detailed study needs to be done. That means (among other things) a look at historical maps of the area : hopefully not of any real relevance to your case. In ours, the local area had some 'quarrying' for clay (at the end of the century before last) and that was felt to be sufficiently relevant to require further investigation. ( See @Bitpipe's post above). A hard look at the site, even a moderately expensive one, is a very useful risk reduction exercise. And when you're about to spend a good chunk of money anyway, it rankles a bit more than normal. The data thrown up by our survey was useful (required documentation, even) on several occasions. At the time of the survey, we had no idea how crucial the documentation would become. Before you do any of the above, it might be wise to get definitive answers to the following questions; Has work started at the site? Yes or No. If yes, then why has the Condition not been met? What constitutes 'start of works' locally? If work has not started, how long has (Outline?) PP been in force. What that really means is, how close to the three year commencement threshold (for starting work) is the plot. The closer to the 3 year time limit, the more bargaining power you have. What proportion of your budget is the site investigation? Is £3000 worth worrying about? Or will that cost ruin other plans? Good luck Ian

Is that good or bad? Is it too obvious / naive / stupid to suggest you do the same?

On test this afternoon......?

Brilliant! Lunch!

You need to read the General Binding Rules. And also realise that discussion amongst neighbours about the soft and smelly stuff is never going to be easy. We had to solve exactly the same problem at the start of our build. Because people understand the basic rule: no foul drain no house - in our case it brought out the very worst in one or two of our neighbours. But the very best in another. We were very lucky indeed. I wish you similar luck. Beware also of the number of pure charlatans operating as drainage 'engineers'. Your only defence is detailed, in depth knowledge of the rules and regulations. And a clear understanding of proper drainage design. Reading this Aesop's tale might be useful

Visor or glasses? I really like a visor..... feel like a plonker when wearing one , though....

My eyes aren't what they once were. Worse, this time of year, in addition to work-related dust, there's pollen. Over time, I have accumulated an impressive collection of eye protection. Stored here, there and everywhere: car floor, bedside table, underfoot, tool bag, dog kennel, and the eye-wear storage box. Oh, and there's a pair on my head at the moment: not so long ago I managed to get into the shower with a pair tucked into my goldilocks . Which made me think. How best to clean them? Tried all sorts, but there's one way that exceeded all expectations. The dishwasher. I'd love to find a scratch-proof set: dishwashers can't sort that problem. Have you found some that don't scratch?

In the light of recent posts in this thread, I'll try and do a bit of digging into the nature of the relationship between the UK owners and the Master Craftsmen. .... (Reiner Quatsch! Ich wette dass die Firma uns auf den Arm nehmen wollt.)

I only have 8 fingers left. Of which six are now smoking from having touched the content of this thread - the remaining two are on fire. I am happy with the idea of early adoption, but at this stage of the product development cycle, this kind of thing should not be happening, perhaps? Would you be kind enough to give me one good reason to buy SunAmp for hot water supply only, please!

Do what you're good at. Let them do what they are good at. Watch them like a hawk. Every single day without fail

Arbeit - ja, schon..... Quatschkopf bist Du.... ==================================== Here's the answer folks; Most of our product series follow some logic with their product numbers. E.g. 221-412 4 = 4mm2 (the maximum cable size the connector will take) 2 = 2 pole connector However, other series follow a different pattern. E.g. 2002-1201 2 = 2.5mm2 (the maximum cable size the connector will take with a ferrule) 1 = Number of levels – in this case a single level 2 = Number of conductors it will connect 1 = colour reference (1 = grey, 4 = blue, 7 = green/yellow) It isn’t something that is in our catalogues, as it does differ with each series. Are there any product series you were wanting more information on? Best regards Jennifer Brady Assistant Product Manager phone: +44 1788 568-008 fax: +44 1788 568-050 <<mailto:jennifer.brady@wago.com>> WAGO Limited Triton Park Swift Valley Ind. Est. Rugby Warwickshire CV21 1SG

Right, that does it. Gonna do some digging .?

Is there any rationale for the WAGO numbering system, is it arbitrary?

Here we go: can't wait to have a play with them later on this morning I see there's nothing for a 1.5mm LED lighting wire. That doesn't matter does it?

Hmm, I got it wrong then. ?

I always suspected it Russ. You are a very nice man, a very very nice man. Wouldn't last a minute in Lancashire.

Locally, (West Lancs) the problem gets sorted at 6:30 on Sunday mornings. The inevitable fine is factored into the cost. Simples!