ToughButterCup

I've been avoiding this for about 2 years. Admitting the cock-up, that is. There's nowt for it now, it's long past the time to do something about it. Here's a description of the problem and a suggested strategy for sorting it out. Look at this mess. @TerryE warned me years ago - change your mind just in time, not just too late. Trick is, knowing when ' too late ' is. We got the position of the loo window wrong. The shower head would be just next to the window. Stoopid or wot? Nay borra Jimmie , said the Durisol guy, You can move the window - easy. Out with the stone saw, whisked the front of the Durisol blocks off before I could say ' FFS stop will ya? ' Cue gritted teeth, rictus grin, self control and murder in my heart. And lots of displacement activity. Two whole years later, I've cooked up enough courage to repair it. Question is how? First, make yourself a work platform and a closer look at the mess..... The concrete hasn't been compromised. All that's needed then is a quick clear up, and a think. Cue another sleepless night..... What do you think I should do?

Hello, welcome. Could I expand on @Temp's comment? What about foul drainage? Where's the soft and smelly going? Have a quick read of this

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There's no planning-specific statement to that effect. In which case, the answer seems to be put up whatever I find in the back of my Land Rover..... Thanks - just me being Germanic and over-focused on rools and regs. Bloody tiresome.

Our BC submission specifies The price of that particular line (Rain Line, sometimes called R Line, ) is too high. I am happy to accept the diameter of the gutter and downpipe as in line with the regulations. But there's little point in the copper metallic finish guttering (not pure copper, therefore) when their galvanised products are more than adequate. Could Building Control insist on copper metallic finish? I ask because it occurs to me that were we to - with a rush of blood to the bank balance - fit the copper version, over time that would turn green. Colour shouldn't matter, it seems. So why not simply fit their galvanised steel? (And buy a new car with the money saved ?)

Someone who lacks the confidence and social skills to manage conflict. I used to deal with noisy neighbour complaints among students in Halls of Residence and close non-student neighbours . One way I dealt with it was to suggest the complainant invite the noisy person to hear what it was like to be on the receiving end of the noise along the lines of : ' Walk a mile in someone else's shoes ' It worked - sometimes.

Yes. That is our roof build-up. We have 80mm of celotex underboarding, and 200mm between the rafters.

And why am I not surprised? This design was common in Germany when I was a kid : less so now. No matter what your reaction to the design is - it does make you clean the bowl. As an aside, I had German relatives ask me in all seriousness how to use a UK design loo without getting a wet bum. The design nickname was Splash Loo (Plumpsklo). I took great delight in telling them that - to keep their bums dry - they had to sit facing the wall and aid the straining process by holding the downpipe with both hands. I explained (lied) that high level cisterns were provided for that very purpose ; I offered to fit a spare bike handlebar to the downpipe as a 'training device'. (Ubungsgerat) Yes, the inevitable happened. One relative completely missed the pan.God, I was in bad odour for a while. I'm almost sure my mum stopped my pocket money for a while after that incident.

@Onoff, please come to sunny Lancashire and do both our bathrooms! Please. I'll buy you a pint, honest.

Thunder Bolts?

Hmmm, basics first - have the hygrometers been tested and calibrated? When?

Its very common in Germany to have a basement: usually (I mean in my experience - and that mostly in Northern Germany) for storage and garaging, and the odd spare room. I know exactly what you mean @the_r_sole. It can be a bit gloomy. As for noise attenuation from upper floors: the houses in which I lived all had concrete ceilings at each level. Silence was the norm. But thinking about it, maybe mum insisted on Hauschuhe for a reason. Not just haus-proud

Erm...... Photos ?

I doubt that anyone, with both a substantial publishing record in well-respected, refereed journals and the ability to attract research funding would be denied a job in the public sector. Are there any such scientists ?

I sincerely hope you aren't.

And since only you will be doing the considering (because its your money).... who cares, but you?

Privacy was raised with us. And summarily dismissed by the planner as: 'Too far away' At 10 meters. Property owners often think they own everything within sight of their house. They don't. Neither do I. Relax. The planner needs to be seen to address issues raised. Thats all. 30 meters? I mean seriously? 30 meters? Obscure the window, get the permission. Move on.

Really? An island in our current kitchen would make the kitchen unusable. But an island has been designed in to our new build. I hate them. She loves them. She wins. (mostly)

I'm nosey. Simon, could you post a picture of a corner and a window head / cill , and a normal run please?

There are as many answers to your question as there are members of BH. Next level is inside your head.

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Mines a 203 Alpha (not the KX080)...... Much will be the same, but search as I might I cant find one for the 203 ? Thanks anyway

Yes. Thanks Declan. Ian

" No, we don't do service checklists " was the somewhat sleepy response when I asked if the Service Department provided owners with a checklist. I'm having my digger serviced this afternoon (2250 hours service) - and it suddenly struck me, that the engineer could just turn up, drink tea and leave: I probably wouldn't notice the difference. The service isn't cheap, and I want to evidence how well I've kept my little digger for when the time comes to sell her. Yes, I'll have the invoice: but what's wrong with a checklist? Am I being too much of a Bosch - too rools and guidelines-ish ? When yours was serviced, was there a checklist?

I'm with you on this one. Trying to get 4 threaded bars out of the concrete in our ICF, I thought a core drill would be best. It wasn't. An 8mm, then a 12mm, followed by 16mm SDS drill did the job quickly. Maybe you need a perfectly circular hole, but 'stitch-drilling' is quicker and easier. And less annoying. Why less annoying? The EPC cut-out operated so frequently, and while on EPC, the drill only operates at 70% of full revs.