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ToughButterCup

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Everything posted by ToughButterCup

  1. ToughButterCup
    There's your answer. Bloody interesting problem though; thanks for asking here.?
  2. ToughButterCup
    Who is taking responsibility for the decision? Put another way, whose PPI is on the line for getting it wrong?
  3. ToughButterCup
    It doesn't matter. Start your planning anywhere. You will soon identify your own constraints - things that have to be worked on first. Can I suggest some form of list system - one that works for you? There are loads out there. And then there's - ermmmm, paper. Theres no point in amassing vast amounts of information without being able to access it when needed - quickly.
  4. ToughButterCup
    Sad to hear how you feel at the moment. But it's only a feeling. And those change over time. Even low levels of involvement in self building means that you look at almost every building in a different way. You can't flush that experience out of your mind. A bit of you will always be a self builder, and I bet you won't stop looking either. Even if you do so in secret, under the bedclothes so she can't see you looking. We waited 35 years.
  5. ToughButterCup
    Talking about Class Q ?: There's this fantastic resource you might like to consider. (If for no other reason than the superb written style: clear, concise, focussed)
  6. ToughButterCup
    Subject to your answer to Ferdi above, pick up the phone or bush telegraph or write and ask. The Council has a duty to help you complete your application. The agenda for success has been set by the response given by the Council. ( Dressed up in horribly badly phrased plannerbabble I suspect). What do you mean (above) when you say '... not given...' Might you mean '.... not made explicit...' , as in - here's a form, fill it in and attach a cheque?
  7. ToughButterCup
    Insurance, Band Aid, ignorance . In any of those roles, there's little or no point to it.
  8. ToughButterCup
    Not stupid is she, eh?
  9. ToughButterCup
    Whats the prevailing wind direction? I ask because if you are in an exposed location with the wind predominantly blowing past your neighbour's house towards yours, then you're on stronger ground not doing anything abgout it.. If the neighbour won't shift from the notion of 3 m high hoardings, then set the OSB ( I assume) base at a little over 600mm above ground level: job done. The bottom of the hoarding height was not specified I bet. And fiddling about providing another 600mm is a bit OCD innit......
  10. ToughButterCup
    Well, with my screen name, I'd better be the first to say welcome. And with our screen names, we should both be wary of that @Russell griffiths : he thinks buttercups are feeble, delicate little things. ?
  11. ToughButterCup
    Fiscal deficit boys! Run for the hills. An economist has infiltrated us. Arrggghhhh!
  12. ToughButterCup
    taped ? As in airtightness tape applied to the joins? Or is there a different sort of PIR ( taped PIR ?)
  13. ToughButterCup
    @Jilly , here's a schematic for our COLD roof - it's flat - not sure yours is, but the principle is the same. Imagine the illustration to be a cross section of your vaulted ceiling.... The image shows how to allow for ventilation, and where the VCL (dashed line at the bottom of our PIR ) is. (Copyright Sam Edge, Architect) There would be an equivalent breather gap at the other end of the roof ( in this image - the right hand side - not illustrated here)
  14. ToughButterCup
    Thats the best bit of advice I've ever had ( given to me by @nod ) . A Story Rod is useful all over the build and throughout the time of the build. It's such a simple, super accurate way of measuring and fitting: I'm going to use one today to mark out the support holes for a heated mirror. I have a ' good one ' and several gash (throw away) ones. I repaint the good one every now and then: it gets loads of markings on it fairly quickly, and painting over old marks is a simple quick way of 'starting again; The key thing is - have one reference mark - doesn't matter what it is, just one , thats both easily visible, and immovable. And measure everything from that. Can't see it becuase there's now a wall in the way: make yourself a new one.
  15. ToughButterCup
    I was tempering the wind to the shorn lamb. So to speak.
  16. ToughButterCup
    Cheerful bloke that @Declan52 in'he ? Trouble is , he's bang on right. 5 years in, and I'm just about used to it. This is the most important thing he said.... Our walls ( well two of them - because by then I'd sacked the builder) bear more resemblance to a propellor than a wall. Those faulty walls caused the following headaches Increased costs in respect of; first floor joists (up to 15mm variance in some cases cladding ( hours of setting up the battens correctly) plastering ( found a magician plasterer who corrected most of the errors If the builder had spent even one day more getting the lines and levels accurate, I would have saved a good deal of money. I rationalise it by saying that I have learned a great deal from the errors - and indeed I have. But Twinkle Toes indoors could have had a better kitchen , I could have had a couple of weeks holiday etc, etc. I think they call it a steep learning curve.
  17. ToughButterCup
    You bad men. Bad bad bad men. Anyway I am not allowed to delete threads anymore am I.....
  18. ToughButterCup
    Installing an electrically heated towel rail is usually simple. Unless you throw the fittings away and then burn them and their packaging. Bummer. At least I didn't throw the electric heating element away. Tiredness does more than kill. It makes ya do stoopid stuff. This is the radiator I want to fix onto a PB wall, and since I havent got the fixings any more , I was going to try to do it with these proprietory fixings ( trade name forgotten , but 90Kg per fixing claimed in PB - more than enough) But this is the threaded attachment hole in the radiator - which has a blanked off end. Not only that, the hole is M8 I think, one size bigger than the fixings (above) I have to hand. Damn. The studs behind the PB are not in line with the fixings on the rad. If they were, it'd be fixed by now. Before I take the PB off and mount noggins behind where the fixings will be, I thought I'd ask for advice please .....
  19. ToughButterCup
    Welcome. Planning: the core of it all. And planning means lists. And lists mean following stuff up. Work out how best for you to do that, and you have it cracked. Well, bar buying walk on glazing in error. ?
  20. ToughButterCup
    How about some candles? Seriously? Yes. Buy some nice candle sconces, a few tea lights: the candle light is diffused by the increase humidity. Lovely effect. Sooooo much cheaper.
  21. ToughButterCup
    Thanks very much @BobAJob. I did work that day (the one on which they fixed the ridge tiles.) I will pop up and check in the next few days. Going back into my google photos account - as often happens, I find I didn't take enough photos of the roof going on . I do know (because of advice from @ProDave) that we overlapped the felt from one face over the ridge to the other side. (I cut it to length). Thanks. I will get up there as soon as there's a weather window , take some photos and post here. Thanks once again for your comments. Very valuable indeed. Ian
  22. ToughButterCup
    Excellent. Welcome. In terms of self-building (rather than marketing), how might low carbon materials help us in terms of improved performance and reduced cost? Some of us have built houses with quite large areas of glass (in my case Gaulhoffer low emissivity triple glazing). How might low carbon materials improve performance and reduce price?
  23. ToughButterCup
    Under the ridge tile there's a corrugated metallic, sticky-backed membrane which extends all the way along the ridge (forgot the trade name) . That provides the waterproofing. But, hint taken. There could be a split in that although I doubt it.
  24. ToughButterCup
    Excellent. It'd be interesting to know how long delivery takes....
  25. ToughButterCup
    Both. You start flat with the intention of making it upright ?
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