Russell griffiths

Change the pir out for xps insulation in the door area, look for one with a high compression something like xps 500. you have a cavity build up so will be a bit different to mine, but basically leave the inner blockwork low, fill your cavity with whatever you are doing and set the xps down solid onto this lower structure, doors sit on that, with whatever dpc you deam necessary don’t use 150 mm insulation, get 75mm and do two layers. Easier to cut and you can stagger the joints.

Now you have your pins in place you could set up your profile boards if you want, you can mark external wall and internal then see it all drops onto the foundation. are you going 600 wide or 700. im sure something changed recently regarding regs.

Don’t fit 32mm, 40 min and reduce to 32 under the basin.

You can get an extension and fit it with the liquid ptfe or the blue glue/ liquid stuff. personally i would fit it correctly out to 2mm shallower than the face of the tile. depends on your ability to sleep after it’s left like that.

Does it look right.

Look for the nail !

Side wall of trench is better. if you bang them in the bottom and go over by 10 mm you will never find them. if in the side the concrete tends to build up around the bar like a dam and is more visable. do you have a rotary laser and a receiver if so you fix the receiver on to a chunk of wood with a flat t shape on the bottom, tamp the concrete and put the receiver on it and wait for the beep beep noise. 10-20 mm out of level from end to end over 15m is perfectly acceptable. and will be taken out with the first course of blocks.

I don’t think the os map has much to do with it. site TOPO survey taken at beginning of project then all drawings laid over the TOPO.

Ask him.

For footings, pour it in get it level go to pub, that is it. do not cover, waste of money. slab, that’s a different matter, finished floor that’s a very different matter.

I haven’t seen profile boards used in years. they take your drawing and load it into their computer in the office, when they come to site it is all loaded into their total station all ready. they use a glass prism on the concrete footing that gets the accuracy bob on. get them to put a height post in, you can mark it with ffh and all the other things you need on it.

We had a local surveyor, he came to site 3 times. 1. rough set out. footprint plus 2 m in all directions so we could strip the site. 2. Accurate footing set out, footings set out with metal pins on every corner accurate to 20mm in any direction 3. Wall set out, masonary nails put into footing concrete on corner locations, accurate to the mm.

Single wall with horizontal studs on the inside lined with more insulation. or go icf, or buy the frame all done depending how much you want to do.

Why. just build a wider wall and put the insulation in that, your Ewi sounds a nightmare to install and detail. just sounds all over complicated and not needed.

this is another 15mm plastic hep2 o with a brass fitting to go into compression fittings. various reducers are available. it’s all of the shelf stuff. you either have stupid or lazy plumbers.

these fittings are also available so you can go plastic into your brass shower valve.

Find your nearest plant and go and open an account, work out the total you will use in the next 4 months and you will get a better price. £120 around here. For a full truck load.

30 mins per truck to unload into the pump.

Why several visits, mass pour the foundation in one hit, then decrease the blockwork.

Just had a look at your original post, that’s about 80m of trench without looking too closely are you only putting 500mm of concrete in the bottom, if so then you will have loads of blocks up to floor level. this is normally an expensive way to do it instead of more concrete and less blocks.

I would want building inspector on site as soon as you have a 5 m length pulled to full depth, you will quickly work out if it isn’t deep enough, agree a depth and carry on, get the inspector to pop back before the end of the day or first thing the next morning. ask your jcb driver what he normally does and what is normal for the area. pump wise a line pump is cheaper, but will need moving manually during the pour, the lads that come with the pump will do that, a boom pump the one in johns picture is dearer and a lot bigger but doesn’t need the pipe moving during the pour as it’s all done by the operator using his remote control. do you have a foundation section drawing as it doesn’t sound like a lot of concrete, are you having too many courses of trench blocks.

But ridiculously dear between 4pm and 7pm the exact time we come in and bang the oven on. have you found the savings at off peak times make up for that high peak time rate ? or do ovens not suck as much as I’m thinking they used to.

What I would do now. look for an experienced owner operator who has his own 5 tonne smallest 8 tonne nicer digger, he will have his own transportation or know a company that brings his machine to site. he will probably have a mate who helps. you can find these on a Facebook site called 8 tonne and below. you will need a surveyor or you ( surveyor best ) to set everything out all pegs in the ground ready. you need a 3 tonne dumper minimum. you need 2-3 muck away companies in your phone who you have chatted to. you need building control to have been notified and ready to inspect as soon as you start. you need to have priced concrete and have it all ready just waiting on a phone call you need a concrete line pump for the pour day.

Cancel that. 5tonner or bigger get it ripped out quickly and re filled quickly. I thought you had your own machine. So getting something the same size is pointless. dont fook about with those silly 1 ton dumpers either 3 tonne hydrostatic drive dumper. More stable, carry more, and cost similar money. unless the site is tight which I didn’t think it was.

If you’re not driving the digger then your opinion doesn’t matter. if you have an experienced operator and a good groundworker then they will know exactly what to do. don’t interfere too much, sit on the dumper or work the laser, but trying to over manage lads that do this every day won’t go down very well. You won’t know how the corners will hold up until you start, you might come across a big patch of loose backfill,have the shuttering to hand you will dig all that in two days, you need a site visit the second you get 4-5 m of trench to full depth. you do not under any circumstances want to have to go back over it, so you need depth sign off the same day you start. what do you mean by shutter and pour multiple times. that all needs digging in one go and pouring in one hit the following day.