Russell griffiths

The handle on our lift n slide from norrsken lifts the door up from the lower track, you can slide it open any amount you want 50mm- 1200mm or whatever, then turn the handle and drop the door back down, that’s it, it’s not moving not 1mm unless you pulled it with a truck.

No need to do any of this ⬆️ if you have a meter already inplace then everything your side is yours you just look up the correct spec and get it put in to that spec, as said previously double check valve on the new pipework into the house. tbh the builders pipe he put in should have one installed as well to stop any site contamination getting back into the main.

My panels went up on my standing seam roof i absolutely hated them, for a couple of weeks I considered removing them and not bothering with Solar at all, two years later I don’t even notice they are there. people even ask if I have Solar and I have to point them out.

Thermalite blocks by any chance ?

Just build a box like you say, like you would a shower niche, except airtight instead of water tight.

The top layer does a few things a very important one is stopping runny concrete getting under the sheets and floating it up, which would be a bloody nightmare. for £20 install it.

You have so many priorities you are that you are confusing yourself you are not going to get the best soundproof wall and build it cheaply. if you want speed then by pre fabricated cardboard panels that are used in offices, will they be sturdy and robust ? nope not at all. you need to narrow down your priorities. you say you would like to build these, then what are your skills, block laying or carpentry. all my internal walls are 90mm studwork with 11mm osb both sides and 15mm plasterboard on top. rather unusual but it does what I want.

We have been given a bit of leeway with one of ours as it is higher than 1100mm from the floor, bco has stated due to the amount of furniture in the room egress through the windows could be gained easily by using a piece of furniture to stand on.

Not a chance it has to be an openable window. i would not fancy your chances smashing triple glazed windows with the outer pain in laminated glass.

Bang an outside frosti tap above it and it won’t look like it’s out of place then.

Is doesn’t matter how big the gutter is if you don’t have enough outlets. every 6m is the regs in Australia due to rainfall, we should be looking at that as a standard.

Where’s the pipework, that might dictate what you do, are you going to chop into that wall or build a stud wall in front of it.

Far to thin, I have used them under my soffits where I needed to pack them down a bit, I would not use them on a facade. not enough meat for the screws to grab hold of.

What’s the bottle gulley for ? pipe down through floor and connect into a chamber. the only reason for the bottle gully would be if you had an outside tap positioned above it.

There’s a big difference between expansion joint and a movement joint. what sort of area are you talking about, I have probably 50-60 m in one area with no expansion joints, but I do have 3-4 movement joints where the large area joins thin smaller areas. I was always told that was the place cracks would occur. imagine the shape of a tennis racket, it will always crack where the head joins the handle. I also have movement joints in every doorway.

Woodpecker ate my bloody facia board, !!

Where is your technical drawing showing the location of your airtight layer. is it showing the vcl at ceiling level or roof level. you need to imagine and show the roofer/ builder an image of a continuous line around the whole property with no gaps or breaks in it. from ground floor to roofline a continuous air barrier.

Use a waterless trap then you don’t need to be home. im as crazy as you, see pic.

If you own a plot you should have self build insurance from the day you purchased the plot if someone walks on to your plot(even if not invited) and hurts themselves you could potentially be liable. take out a self build policy and check it covers you for demolition.

Get it fully scaffolded, strip the roof, clear polythene sheet over it, use clear as it’s easier to see the timber work underneath for doing the alterations.

Mine is like this.

Roll of plastic up the front of the house, 2 cubic metres of weak concrete build the ramp to spec, get it signed off pull the ramp out and chuck it in a skip. pain in the arse, but I completely don’t agree with these regs so just work around it.

The rough work should be underground, by the time he’s at dpc I would want it within 5mm from corner to corner. so if you have a box one corner can go down 5mm and then up to the other corner, I don’t mean it progresses down or up around the building until he is 20 mm out. 5mm overall. why don’t you put a stake in with dpc marked on it at every corner. he should work from that height down not from the concrete up.

Who’s Harvey milk. ??