Russell griffiths

Depends what you want to achieve. Drafty cold building, but you don’t care as you will be weightlifting in your thong. Or nice and toasty office that your wife works in. If you want the latter then you will need to completely design the whole thing, a bit of insulation stuffed under a draughty roof won’t cut it.

You should have your toilet choice by now and give him a pdf of the installation instructions.

CVC in oxford.

If you want a moody bodge then fill it with a timber filler and paint it. If you want a nice job then remove the architrave and fit 3 new bits flat to the floor.

one of these.

Looking at this the way you are and putting these tight times on things , I think you are in for a world of hurt and disappointment. Do you think there’s a big gang of chippies out there just waiting for you to call them and offer them 45mins to cut and fit your window boards. Unless you are very lucky I think they will come in and tell you exactly what it’s going to cost. Putting a time and cost on each item you will get a site chippy who wants to run in and smash it out as fast as he can, which won’t achieve the finish you want. Window boards will depend greatly on the finish that they are going onto, flat and level timberframe with the cavity all closed then lovely. Unlevel block work, or wonky icf, then what method do you want for fixing down or levelling. If you are tight on the time they will pack them up on old bits of crap they find laying about. If you have multiple cills in one room you will want them all level with each other. I have 5 windows all in the same room that need to all be the same height, I think it took a good day to get the laser shooting nicely across them all. Ive been on a job recently where we took out two sets of patio doors and reinstalled them because they where different heights to each other, both sets in the same room. Pay peanuts you will get monkeys. Im on another forum just for builders and the going rate for an internal door hanging and furniture is about £80 a door.

Better off with a 10x8 shed, kettle, toaster, and a table to lay out drawings.

Why don’t you build the rest of the extension and pour the floor when the roof is on.

If you put the dpm in and it rains you will have a big pond, dpm and insulation is only a half day job, do it the day before you pour.

Why on Earth are you using 160mm soil pipe.

Sort of what I’m thinking, Solidor external spec door, so all good airtightness, pas 24 locking, but needs to have fire spec. Is there such a thing ???

f#cktard

Morning peeps. I have an attached garage that needs a fire door between the garage and the living areas, I would also want this door to be as airtight as possible. So do you think it is easier to get a fire door and frame and improve on the air tightness , or try to get a good airtight door that can meet the fire regs.

Yep, starter bars in footing, then a course of blocks, then pour, then floor or walls. The only drama like that is needing a pump or some way to get concrete around site probably 3 times not twice.

I built in icf, purely for the solid lump feel, and the dampness, I’m right next to a large lake and dismissed timberframe very quickly. But don’t do it to save money, I think what you might save in one hand you will spend in the other. I built with a poly type icf and did no external covering for two years, my shell was fully airtight and watertight as soon as the roof went on, so could be good for getting on inside if the weather is crap for outside work. If going icf on a slab pay attention to slab and wall junction, I have seen this be a pour area for water Ingres. If i was remote like you I would go, strip footing, icf walls and an insulated slab internally to form the floor

@Jenki if your at £10,000 for blocks your not going to build it under £13,000, unless I didn’t understand your comment. Concrete pump bracing, timber, labour, will put you right back up with the timberframe price.

It’s cheaper than the metal underlay, but not cheap and nasty, I used proctor #3 I think.

Get some boards to walk on.

Permanent means you cannot just lift it up, so wooden ramp screwed down is perfectly acceptable, as long as it complies with the rest of the regs. Correct size, non slip, blah blah blah.

I think we need to stop a bit, because we are missing the exact regulation. I was under the the impression that the section immediately in front of the door has to be flat not sloping. So you need a 1200 square dead flat before your slope. I have heard of someone in the same boat, I would cover that whole ramp in plastic sheet going up the wall, then pour a very weak mix of concrete screed on top and get the height you want. After it’s inspected smash it up with a hammer and lift the plastic.

Isn’t your airtight layer on the inside? seal up the inside then bring your external insulation up to soffit height, then do separate insulation between joists. Soffit on and render bead under soffit for a neat finish.

So it’s you who buys all the bog roll up. 🤣🤣

Western red cedar is one of very few conifers that have internal buds and growth, as well as being able to re shoot from a cut end. So all these overgrown conifers you see that are brown and dead in the centre, well you don’t get that with WRC. If you forget to prune them for a year and then need to give them a slightly harder hack than normal they will re shoot from the cut ends. Making for a far nicer and thicker screen. Nicer green foliage with a silvery tint. Nice smell. 100% better than a Leland cypress.

Another icf builder here, done 95% myself, even the architect bit, if you don’t want a passive house badge out side then stop using that term. You want to build a highly insulated, very airtight house with low thermal bridging. Its all in the details, floor to wall junction. Wall to roof junction. Window fitting. No gaps. Thats it, don’t let trades ruin what you have achieved by telling them the level of care you want, if they don’t get it find someone else.

Water hitting the floor is dependent on your house design. I lived in tropical Queensland Australia for a few years, you don’t have gutters as they are pointless and just overflow, so you let it fly off the roof to be caught by a French drain all around, but the house is designed like that so the house is up on small stilts so the walls are 600mm above the floor, no rain can bounce up and hit the house. SORTED. Your house @puntloos will be fixed to the floor with walls coming down to ground level, I’m presuming your having some pretty render, well not for long you won’t, if you allow the gutter to flow straight over the front you will get, green mouldy render and water bouncing above your damp course. Design the problem out with deep wide gutters before you come back in a couple of years time moaning that your walls are damp, and your render is green.