Russell griffiths

how about this.

I used kingspan green guard you cannot screw into it like compacfoam but it does everything else you need. How much do you need ?

What about the look of a gentleman’s library dark maroon leather in a diamond or hexagonal pattern.

It’s definitely achievable, but you need to look at all these details and work out how much more it will cost versus a standard verge. I can see some very expensive leadwork needed for your design and also capping they could be stone or more modern aluminium or lead. I could see each end of that house being 2-3 grand more than standard. So is it £6000 nicer.

My neighbour has just done something similar ugly steel security door, drilled it full of 10mm holes and pumped in 3-4 cans of expanding foam, he then screwed oak tongue and groove boards to the face, it now looks like an old farm door, he had to add timber to the frame and pad out the architrave. It looks better than I probably described it.

Vertical aluminium planks, with a timber print on them, or composite decking the cost of hardwood is eye watering and the bottoms will suck the water up.

I’m baffled you want to look up at the roof from inside and see tiles and battens, is this correct.

Yep backer rod would work, maybe a dab of silicone on the corners as when you fold it around it will naturally have a bit of a gap, or mitre them ???

Take all the beads out and do a re test. I bet this draft is coming around the glass unit and the bead is pushing it to the corner gap. You could remove a bead and seal the unit into the frame using illbruck airtight foam, then re install the beads. I would remove one or two beads carefully, to make sure the glass is secure on packers and that it stays in place.

I haven’t done it myself, I went with a shadow gap cladding but have a search on here, I remember the downside being cost, the timber needs to be high quality to maintain the look, the membrane is expensive, and I think people experienced it getting eaten by wasps. I have a lot of wasps and always wonder what what they are chewing to make the nest, I’ve experienced having holes bored through my facia boards, so that membrane would be my big worry. I did look at a membrane that stuck on to the racking boards and preferred that to the version that is only fixed under the battens.

How are you planning on insulating the brick wall. That might influence how you build the stud wall.

Depends if you can get metric osb, if you can then build it to metric sizes. Its the arse about face country we live in. Trying to embrace the future while being firmly stuck in 1868. Have a good read up on your choice of open rainscreen cladding. I personally would avoid it, unless it’s a design you are really looking for.

California corner, allows insulation into the corner, if that’s what you need. Frame not connected at top plate, so either a double top plate or the plate holding the roof up will do. Without seeing the rest of it it’s hard to tell, probably immaterial if it’s just a bit of an out building it’s probably fine.

That sketch is very basic. It could be that’s just how you have drawn it up. For instance look at the corner and work and work out how your internal wall covering will be fitted the way it is drawn you do not have a stud to fix to, externally you do but internally you don’t. You normally do a two stud corner to turn a 90 degree, or if you want to insulate it you do what’s called a California corner. Setting it in 11mm sounds like a plan, don’t forget a weather barrier to the outside under the battens. And some sort of insect barrier to the batten area.

I have 2 holiday lets, don’t do it. If you cannot manage it yourself all you will do is pay any money earnt out for cleaners and maintenance. Everybody I know who remote owns has headaches with broken stuff on changeover day. As regards regulations, I cannot see how they could get holiday accommodation up to an epc of c the amount of shepherds huts and old mobile caravans by me is crazy. Also if a holiday property is only let for the summer then why would it matter what the epc was. We only let ours until October, so adding extra insulation seems pointless. The new fire regs are ridiculous, I know of owners with 300 year old listed cottages being told to rip out existing doors and fit fire doors and frames to all bedrooms.

Trying to buy dry straight 225 timber will be a pain, I would look at i joists for a better construction. Or twin wall as mentioned.

What do you mean, temporarily or for pouring. If temporarily then do whatever you feel needs doing. Same for the pour really, I over braced everything, but didn’t have a single issue apart from one reveal that I had actually forgotten to put screws in some timber. Half a dozen screws later it was all fixed. too much bracing??? probably. Did I have any problems?? no.

I didn’t get the braces on site until I had the whole structure up to 2.7m we had some bad wind and only lost a block or two. Start at the corners and leave some gaps out in the middle to let the wind through. You will need loads of scaffolding boards for when the braces come, I don’t think many bracing systems hire out with boards, so you might as well get 20 boards now and a bundle of batten and get it propped, ready for the bracing system.

Remove the led strip seal the cut surface re fit led strip.

Do it, tell nobody

Your concrete base needs to finish 150mm higher then ground level. If not the bottom of your external cladding will get wet from rain bounce.

Does the plywood need a fireproof board on top if fitting, electrical equipment to it. Im not sure so better check. I used 18mm osb with fermacel boards on top as it doesn’t need skimming and has a nice finish for a coat of paint before you fit anything to it.

Smash that big concrete chamber out, dig down and find the drain underground, check the drain is in working order, connect down pipe to drain. Go to pub.

Your putting the screws in too tight, before foam has gone off. Spay glue, put in place, screw very lightly to hold in place, wait for glue to cure 20mins, screw screws up. Looks good.

You won’t pay 20% vat and then claim it back if the timberframe company supplies the frame and erects it the vat will be zero rated as a new build.