Russell griffiths

Two hours with a local planning consultant will tell you if your dreaming or not. I would start there. pointless paying an architect for something that will never happen.

Depends what it’s holding up if it’s just two courses of block until you hit ceiling level then your fine with those, if it’s a wall taking uppperfloor joists then go bigger, or consult your drawings.

Why not talk to a planning consultant, does your architect have the experience in difficult cases, or do they just draw pretty pictures. I used an architect for pretty pictures and a planning consultant for the application, a lot of consultants come from a local government background. ours certainly did and secured an on site meeting to discuss what we wanted and what the planning officer didn’t like, after an hour we had reached a bit of common ground, re drew a few aspects and it went through, first time. we had been told it would be highly unlikely to achieve planning on our plot.

Concrete lintel, but go up a size they are about 150 deep.

The training day is well worth it. Cardiff is the only location I think. unlike other companies catnic still supply this for free. I was rather peed off that after spending £20,000 with an icf company they then wanted £180 for a training day.🤬

You will need a toggle type fixing, pretend the door is a thin hollow wall.

Isn’t the Solution to pour the garden room at the same time you put the house foundation in.

@saveasteadingit wasn’t the weight on the joists/ rafters I was worried about, more the fixings, fixing something horizontal upside down, all the weight is directly applied to the fixings. doing a secret fixing all the fixings are just through the tongue of the timber, this was my biggest concern.

I considered oak to be far to heavy for ceiling installation, but I suppose on a steeper angle maybe the weight doesn’t give the impression that it’s all hanging on the fixings. plasterboard is heavy stuff, so I’m probably overthinking the weight side of it. looks really good. I noticed a lot of these details in more commercial settings, and don’t understand why it’s not used in more domestic. I think it’s probably a cost thing.

With windows you want quality, with your location go and look at norrsken, they have a new showroom just opening in Bournemouth.

Over thinking buy them, install them, onto the next problem we had loads of solar panels put up, the day they went up I hated them, worst thing I had done to the house, now I don’t even notice they are there.

Clever bastard.

There’s not really a question there, just your observations, and you sort of answered them. Retaining walls, use something flexible, gabion baskets, natural stone, timber, don’t use something solid and inflexible, blocks rendered, concrete rendered. this block rendered white trend is a recipe for old tired cracked retaining walls, but it looks trendy in the world of porcelain slabs and fake grass.

You won’t guess the timber if I gave you 20 guesses we wanted red cedar to match the rest of the house, this would have been about £100 a metre, had a look at a local sawmill who had loads on display, I chose this on its weight and price. You can’t be fixing oak up there the weight would just be silly. this is poplar, that has been heat treated to preserve it, weighs absolutely nothing. Came in at half the price of cedar. secret fixed with stainless nails in the groove so you can’t see it. it has a trim to still go on around the edges.

You will need an accountant to talk you through the business side. you will need public liability insurance, talk to a broker, tell them what you intend doing, you might need professional indemnity insurance.

I did this, it was always on the list of things I wanted, it started off expensive when planning it, by the time covid hit it had doubled in cost. still did it, possibly one of the most standout items in the house. Just depends what you fancy.

Separate duct, just put a pull through rope in it, I would use the rigid duct not flexible twin wall, it’s a pig for getting squashed and damaged in the smaller sizes.

I obviously don’t know what type and size of house you are building. but I would not take the cable inside to a cupboard unless this is going to be a dedicated service cupboard that all your cat 6 cables go back to. I’ve just had all my internet data stuff installed in the house and we are very low tech, but we still had something like 13 cat 6 cables feeding back into this area. much easier to get it all put in the dedicated plant room or where the consumer unit goes.

She sounds like your ex wife.

With most things in life you need to add in a big chunk of common sense 400mm below the lawn= pea gravel and backfill 400 below a pedestrian path = pea gravel + compacted type 1 then path 400below vehicle traffic = pea gravel, then a concrete covering spanning the width of the trench and continue onto solid ground. most shallow pipes are near the house, they obviously get deeper the further they travel, so being only 400 deep by the time you get around the front of the house is rare. normally very shallow near back of house, I’ve seen plenty with only 100mm concrete cover and then paving.

If you have a whole house to renovate then you are probably better of getting a battery system for everything. keep the 12 volt one for kitchen fitting and poofy stuff like that. get 4 18 volt batteries, get an impact driver, a drill driver, an sds drill, and a circular saw. this will more or less build a house until you come to delicate fitting out, then you can add a plane and router and sander, by then you will probably have added another couple of batteries.

Easy peasy. now just think if you had your own machine how much would you have saved. 😉 go and tell the wife.

Do you have cordless battery tools as well. I have a large 240 volt sds drill and an 18 volt dewalt battery sds. I cannot remember the last time I used the 240. Battery sds for the last 5 years building an entire house.

Send him on his way.

Take a better picture to show us.