Russell griffiths

Go and buy the closures, do not take a punt on them not adding much, I bet they reduce the opening by 10 mm

You can do whatever you want, but it will always have a knock on somewhere. we wanted timber and no shell for a large span, but the timbers started to need to be 450 deep. without steel would your I joist start to come out at some ridiculous size like this. you might also need to decrease the spacing between them. all of the above adds to the cost. do you have a drawing. in the end we went with a steel mid span and it halved the size of the i joists. mine was just a roof, not a whole frame.

Our private, track was measured at 3.0 m are you sure they want 3.7m

Change your block type, nothing in the world would make me use both inner and outer skins in thermalite blocks. if you must use them on the inside then there only. 100mm celotex in the cavity only just meats regs, you need to improve this somewhere. how will you fit lights in the flat roof area, does this need a service cavity. no mention of vcl in pitched roof. no mention of vcl in flat roof. on the pitched section insulated at rafter level, change the insulated plasterboard for normal celotex, fit this directly under the rafters, then service batten then normal plasterboard. Again no mention of vcl.

I can see more of this happening as landlords leave the letting business.

He’s being unreasonable he’s added an extra £30 a m go and ask him what extra work he feels he will need to do.

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It’s been mentioned here twice I think. £30-40 grand divided by 7 houses.

Your council will not want samples sending in, my council specifically states do not bring samples in. can you imagine every builder turning up in reception with 4 bricks and a couple of roof tiles. it normally states that they want to see a sample section of wall. you normally build a 1m square of wall and send them pictures. pictures from the brick manufacture brochure might be adequate as well.

If you have a loft it won’t be a problem with noise. I have vaulted ceilings in all the rooms, and it’s noisy.

Moving on with the rest of the build it would benefit you to ask some questions here first so you can preempt how things will be done and you will have a grasp of if it’s going off piste slightly before something has gone too far.

Just ensure the last one in the run has something down it to catch the crud, give them a good flush with a hose and then collect the crud. you need to be all over your builder like a bad smell.

Do you have an option of something different. I have standing seam and it looks spot on, nothing else would do the job on my place due to the low pitch, but I would rather have slate/ tiles for longevity and maintenance. but saying that I have no idea what mine will be like in 25years I could be worrying over nothing.

Go and talk to some of the neighbours, find out what agro they ever have. as far as I’m aware the only way it would not comply is if it flows to a waterway, if it exits to a drainage field then it still complies, don’t know the regs on sizes. if it ever needed replacement then allow £30,000 divided by 7.

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You do not need a water trap if the pipes run to a soakaway. You will not have any odour from a soakaway. you only get odour from a foul sewer.

I’m presuming that brickwork around the fire place is cavity construction with a fairly substantial cavity with insulation installed. the drawing isn’t clear. I would not expect your bricky to have ever seen this, sips construction is far from a regular thing to come across, and fitting a fire place like that adds to the complexity, I would sort the details thoroughly yourself, as you know your average bricky will not appreciate what cold bridging is or air tightness. you need to continue the insulation layer that the sips provides around the fire place so you need a continuous insulation layer from right to left.

90% of whatever you do will be timber, if your considering putting a second storey on in brick, then 100% you would be better off taking it down.

Self levelling concrete is not easy to find, lots of plants don’t do it, then if you do find it you will have minimal orders and increased costs, so you will probably end up with normal concrete. you will not get a good enough finish for any sort of LVT and nobody will lay LVT without doing there own preparation work. so allow for needing a smoothing / leveling compound on top of your concrete, this could be anything from 3-5-10mm thick, depending on how well the concrete was laid. or easier in my opinion to lay concrete first then insulation then ufh then liquid screed to cover the pipes. everyone has an opinion of how to do it.

You don’t need an architect get an architectural technician, you said it has planning, foundations poured, so you just need building regs drawings i paid £25 an hour to get my sketches turned into cad, retired architect I would expect £30-35 an hour now. I think you could get it all done for £2000-3000, it’s a very simple design.

It’s ok your engineer saying upgrade the foundations,have you looked into the cost of this. as far as I know the standard price is about £1000 per linear m for underpinning.

You won’t be air leaking through a flat painted surface, if you didn’t get a good result it will be down to gaps. try doing a diy test and find the leaks.

The window can sit wherever you want to put it. as long as you demonstrate a robust method of damp proofing the floor the walls and whatever else is nearby. You need to tell them how your doing it, not the other way around.

All your cables for power have to be run in what is called a safe zone, your electrician will sort this out, it’s probably ideal to keep data cables in the same safe zone as it tries to prevent any numpty drilling or screwing through them. you can run your cables from the consumer unit across the first floor ceiling / floor then they can drop down to the room below or go up to the rooms above. all you need to worry about at foundation level is making sure you have provided a route into and out of the property for all services in and out.

Parge coat onto wet blocks is not a problem, as you would want to wet the blocks down anyway weak sand n cement mix with a shovel of lime. bucket and a soft broom head or just a hawk n trowel.