Russell griffiths

Do it yourself it will be under £20,000 mine is 400m, trench took about a week to put in with my own machine. largest cost will be the cable.

Have you had a quote to put electricity in. Oxfordshire Warwickshire border, I can’t believe your that far from a transformer. im on 12 acres and have power on both boundaries there’s obviously a high cost to install, but off grid equipment is not cheap either.

A leaf blower is good for cleaning out the ducts, watch out for the dust that will fly out.

They do steel linings for commercial applications. These are normally not much wider than the door and a small stop, so 60mm wide ish. however if you do a narrow lining then bring plasterboard into the reveal you will get a lot of damage to the corner, door linings and architrave take a fair beating.

I’ve only had this product in my hands for a few minutes, and it felt very firm. the stuff I messed with might not have been the flex version, have they made one more squishy for this sort of application. my opinion would be that it won’t compress down to 89mm. that’s a very expensive insulation option, have you looked at other methods.

What’s the thoughts on Ewi on a cavity wall then. I was under the impression that a cold uninsulated cavity would still be cold no matter what thickness of Ewi is added. so with a cold cavity then isn’t the inner skin still cold. I thought IWI was the go to with a cavity.

As Conner said, nothing on council records will be excepted without trial holes showing what exactly is there.

£1000 per lin metre at the moment I’m led to believe talking to local lads.

Equestrian property is in high demand near me, but if your committed to doing a new build you could be in luck, as a lot that I see people want it all ready to go. fenced paddocks, ménage, tack room. I think you might need to look at older run down bungalows with 3-4 acres, and start from scratch.

I would fix the falling down structures so the footprint looks larger than just the brick part.

I’m getting far better figures on new builds in the last few years than refurbishing. I spent two years doing a complete gut and refit, back to brick everything out, struggled to cover my costs in the end, without drawing any wages on it. never again. maybe it’s area specific, anything by me old in a good plot is just getting flattened.

What sort of insulation levels would a refurbishment of this kind need to comply with building regs. if you take down the outer leaf and extend the cavity to get 100mm of batts inside it then what happens with the wall ties, are they not going to be too short, then what about the lintels, then will this wider wall fit on the footings with the new regs on footing width.

@allthatpebbledash I’m just trying to be a realist your saying a knock down and rebuild will be more expensive, it certainly will be, but how much better will the final product be, and what is the value of a new build versus your refurbishment. get some nice street scene pictures done for you and get them valued, you might be surprised how much the new build comes out at. having spent all my life chopping houses about before I found one to knock down, I will never do a refurbishment again. if it’s been empty two years I can guess what sort of condition it’s in.

Your excused, because I believe you are building them for a profit. only so far you need to go. I don’t know a single one of my developer mates who fit it, but they are working with a profit margin in sight.

I fitted a steel angle bolted back through the nudura, then cut a notch out of the stone so it sits over the steel, you can only see the steel if standing directly under it and looking up, I’m going to cover it in a strip of upvc to match the windows.

You are 100% not going to do option 4 or 5 never heard such a ludicrous idea. there’s been a few silly ideas on here in the past, but I’m afraid you have just topped them all.

The last thing I would do is use that steel framing. i would strip the plaster from the reveal and add a strip of pir insulation with the plasterboard bonded onto it. glue it to the brick work to insulate those reveals, then re plaster. many ways to do it, but you need to isolate the cold outside from the warm inside metal will transfer the cold through which is what you want to avoid.

Can you get some stone of your choice and set it onto a steel angle I’ve just done something similar.

Phone the company you have insurance with. protek where happy for us to move in on a temporary basis as long as i informed them when, completion certificate won’t be issued until it’s complete which will be some time.

You pair of bumders are really making a mountain out of a mole hill. @Pocster get your tube of tiger seal and squirt a great big blob of it onto a board, put one of your best latex gloves on and get that stuff slapped on, no gun needed no bendy farking tube. when it’s proper lubed up get a sponge and dip it in white spirit, smooth that bad boy jizm out with the sponge. winner winner chicken dinner.

Just make sure on the side you cut out your not leaving a slither of block for the lintel to sit on, you might need to move the opening to marry up with half blocks.

Rip the lot out and go and buy a stone ones in a nice buff colour to match your stone just a thought.

I think it stops the excavator slewing generally meant for when transporting the machine. I think so don’t hate me if I’m wrong.

You can have it any height you want as long as it complies with having a system to stop somebody falling against it and cutting themselves, safety glass, or to stop somebody falling through it, safety glass, or somebody opening it and falling through the opening, window restrictor. you can basically do what you want as long as it complies with a few simple regs.

Pair of multi grips wrapped in a rag put the grips hard up against the shoulder where it’s stronger.