Russell griffiths

Poor stud work, out of alignment so boards bending to compensate. wet studs drying out poor boarding, not cutting around doors just butting up. boards not falling on studs correctly not enough screws. the list goes on and on. I boarded mine, to the letter, it couldn’t have been done any better, I have minimal cracking. but I definitely have a few in places that i really thought wouldn’t have, it’s a bit of a bastard really. it just depends if you have a few or a lot.

Pictures needed. are you adding new floor level, or is it all ground floor.

I’ve fitted 18mm osb then fermacel on the walls in my plant room. know as it’s being fitted out I’m finding I’m still unhappy fixing into this lot with heavy expansion vessels, so I’m using hollow wall toggle fixings that will drill through both sheets and then open out in the stud wall cavity, I can actually hang from the brackets I’ve put up with just two fixings in.

I’ve had 4 plasterers on my house. 3 of them did a day and I’ve never had them back the fourth lad is the best I’ve ever come across, different gravy. I think you have had a shit one, if you know roughly what you are expecting then you needed to be there. mines from Coventry and travels about an hour if that’s any good to you.

Pictures needed.

£4000 per shower room £5000 for the shower/ bathroom, excluding tiles.

Why double glazed doors as opposed to triple, weight shouldn’t be a reason to discount a product. My triple glazed sliders were 400kg plus, I’m very glad I didn’t pick double glazed in stead.

Not needed, just mix up a small amount of the tile adhesive and pre fill over the screw washer dents just to bring them up flush.

Don’t even think of using the old crap. go and buy a full arm with valve and all parts new, will take longer to drive to the shop than to fit it, messing with old scaled up crap will only mean you end up doing the job again in a years time when another bit of it scales up.

Is that an accessible area, can you always get to it ? would you like to put a rodding point there for future blockages or just patch up what’s there.

Are you plastering it or just jointing compound on the joints. I’ve just had some jackoboard plastered and we fully meshed the entire board, like you would when thin coat rendering. it was a lighter gauge fibreglass mesh, came in 1m wide rolls.

Run the horizontal batten the full way around the house, not just little bits, you can add a batten front to back as well.

Do you have an emersion in a tank that is overheating, thermostat could be gone and sending water up the expansion pipe. check the level of the overflow pipe and fit a second one if needs be.

Why can you not draw up some pictures of everything you want to do, window, wall insulation, roof insulation, blah blah. put in an application for bc approval with all inspections, £4-500. as far as I’m aware there is no time limit to the work, so put the windows in and get them checked and signed off, then two years time rip all the floors up, get them inspected and signed off. all under one building regs application. or am I missing something.

far easier to find you a pick than try and explain.

Our water is so hard you get a scuddy line in the toilet bowl.

No they do a sort of re jig, blast themselves out, it can be noisy and can also deplete water pressure im told. im not worried about noise, so I want to be able to alter the time it does it.

Looking for recommendations on a quality water softener. things it must have. Hi- flow ability to time the re -gen cycles I don’t want it kicking in randomly when I’m in the shower and stealing my water. quality more important than cheap n cheerful. what we saying people.

Depends how poor the finish is on the original concrete. you can use 25mm of polystyrene insulation on top of the concrete and below the damp proof membrane to take out any lump n bumps or sharp areas. if it’s really bad a few bags of cheap self leveling compound to take out the worst bits.

@Big G get that changed that outer detail is horrible. @smurph306, yes it’s up, yes they made a YouTube video of it, but is it good construction with good methods used. then I would say no. If you want to chuck up a quick extension then do what they did, if you want it better, with less problems then ask some more questions on here. there’s a lot of talk on here recently of small timberframe extensions and BC being happy with them, I’m wondering how long it’s going to be before they start rotting out at the sole plate, due to poor details and poor maintenance.

a very dirty norrsken door, it is timber, they do do aluminium clad timber as well. I think that was £1800 with the sidelight.

What’s your budget ?. ours came from norrsken, proper bit of kit, but will be £1500 ish.

Get some 3x2 timber, make a cross brace inside the playhouse to brace it up and lift it with the digger, two large straps around it.

I’ve never had a problem with labc.

Why the compression wall plate, end feed and solder it. then straight coupler.