Russell griffiths

If it’s one duct then why not just drill the hole and put it through the joist. appropriate reinforcement to the joist will be needed. presuming 90mm duct.

I’ve got a standard metal back box under my wife’s sewing table, takes a two gang face plate with cover flap thing.

Disclaimer. This is a bodge up, but will get you a few years before you need to look at it again. Did the same job this weekend on a building that will be demolished in a couple of years. strip off 1400 x 1400 area back to the boards rip up the soft boards back to the joists cut a patch of new plywood or osb to fill the hole. cut felt and stick down to match height of existing roof, or higher.NOT LOWER. fill all gaps and joins with a roofing type sticky something clean an are far larger than patch 2mx2m cover entire area with a fibre reinforced coating. BOSTIK FLEXACRYL is what I used, very impressed but not cheap.

for a bit of context I was at kubota this morning. the big machine in the pic is an 8 tonner, next to it is a 3. considerable bigger reach and height.

I think you need to re think this whole operation. you started off with saying you where getting a 3 tonne machine with a pecker, how has this jumped to a 7 tonner and a pecker, it could be that’s what you can get locally. if you get a bigger machine you certainly don’t need the pecker. just pick the slab up at the corner and drop it a couple of times. if you purposely want little bits of concrete then get a smaller machine 2-3 tonne and a pecker. look up the specs of the machines, as you are finding out a 7 tonner is significantly bigger than a 2-3 so far more likely to be able to get into the danger zone of working near cables. stop and re think this job, you will end up using a big hammer to crack an egg. big machines are brilliant at getting lots done, but for an amateur you can make a lot of mess and a lot of damage very quickly. 3 tonner for a weekend will see all that concrete gone. picture is an 8 tonne machine.

TBH whoever is laying your LVT should do the leveling, it’s not as easy as it looks, and is easy to cock up.

More context needed. Why are you pouring in one room and not the other do you have different floor finishes at different thickness so need to raise one more than the other.

Get down on your hands and knees, and get the hoover hose, scratch away at the insulation and hoover at the same time, don’t use anything to damage the pipes. put conduit around the pipes and make sure you have 20 mm deep clearance below finished floor level. then use a high build floor leveling compound, pour it in and crack open a bottle as you admire your masterpiece.

Are you thinking they are doing the whole install. as Dave said forget the bird nesting that is not needed it’s out of season, but also they won’t be working anywhere that needs it. are you not the one cutting the gap in the hedge and doing the trench up to the new house.

Lots of nice machines around for £12000 ish. after 3 years you will get £10000 back on it.

TBH you’re breaking this down and analysing it because you have seen the quote. if they just told you it’s £4500 to connect your water you probably wouldn’t question it.

Add it to your self build policy. it’s far too expensive to get it separately. have you thought of buying your own machine.

I think it’s hard to answer this without being in the room. I would get your props in place, get the steel in position, knock the old wall out, cut out for padstones, lift up steel, put jacks under steel and wind up tight, then have a good look. does it fit tight to all the joists, can you even out the level by bumping up one end 5mm. have a play I think you will get a better feel for it when the steel is in position.

75mm keep it for the floors, double it up to 150, stagger the joins.

you need a floor leveling compound that is designed as the finished floor there are lots available do not use the cheap shite it will just wear away. you will need to hoover the floor spotless and soak it in primer, you will then need to prime it before the leveller goes on. read instructions on leveller and buy the appropriate primer. do you want it flat and level and smooth or shit but painted a nice colour. wont be cheap going to cost you£3-400. no miracle paint or surface hardener will get rid of the crap surface, they will just stop it dusting up.

Vibration ???? how about some foam rubber between them.

If it’s for a garage look up a self leveling compound designed as the finish layer. you will need lots of primer.

Yes, but you still own it.

Does the forum still have a de coiler. forum member near me is looking for it. cheers.

That’s a fairly good argument for a reduction in price.

Trees with TPO on them, look into this now, if having the trees there will hamper the build then your in trouble. getting a TPO removed is a lengthy process unless they are in poor health.

4.8m lift n slide door from norrsken was about £5500. front door £1800.

Mix up a Solution of linseed oil and turps, brush it all over the joins and let it soak in. this used to be the way before the egger stuff was invented.

I hired a floor scabbler to take all the snots off mine. did a180m in a day.

You know the self build centre is in Swindon just down the road.