Russell griffiths

Mine is clad in timber. my bc said it’s only to stop the spread of fire if you have a second floor, as mine is only single storey, then there’s nobody up stairs to protect.

Do you mean cavity barrier for fire protection. if so we have a letter from bc saying we do not require them as it’s a single storey dwelling with no neighbours. and not near the property boundary.

I’ve used a product called kingspan green gaurd in the 500 kpa spec. why only a thin piece though. I would take it full depth of your insulated raft, so it bears down onto the stone the raft sits on, fully adhered to the outside insulation. bit confused though, if you are covering the insulation in aluminium, then why does the door cill project out so far that you need this support, wouldn’t the door be set further back in the frame. do you have a section drawing showing frame position and cladding location.

too fat or something like that

Could you build a plasterboard box, maybe two layers of board all glued together and insert that behind the dropped ceiling then board straight over them, then when you cut out for your spots you end up inside one of the boxes you made.

You don’t need sand blinding on beam n block. Why would you. you also need to get away from the thoughts of you have a cold house that you heat up quickly. forget that, you have a warm house that is warm all day, you don’t let it cool down and then blast it with heat to get it warm. make it comfortable and keep it like that. if you can’t get your head around that, or you think the house won’t work like that then put in radiators if you want a sudden burst of heat into the room. a 75mm screed acts like a big heat emitter, it releases heat nice and steady, you can’t ask it to suddenly chuck loads of heat into the room.

If your a carpenter and fairly handy you can do it, you will need a few specific tools but only hand tools so £150 will cover it. loads of instructional drawings about if you hunt for them. I think green coat is the actual steel coated product. this is then used by various manufacturers and bent up to their specific sheet style.

Do you really want the glazed gable. they look pretty on paper, but unless that is a very deep room you won’t be able to stand back far enough to appreciate it. I have lots of glass and could definitely get rid of 20% of it and not notice the difference.

Building control I meant.

PUT YOUR PRICES UP LAD. Has always served me well.

Usual practice is to have a service batten and fit low profile lights, there are lots that fit in a 40mm void. but every build is a bit different. you might need to build boxes. you could paint them with an airtight paint, so you only need to tape to the edges.

You probably need to do a bit of this and a bit of that. your airtight layer needs to be continuous if those beams are on display can you not continue the airtight layer above the beams. do you have a layer of plasterboard sitting on top of those beams. a sketch of what you have is probably a better idea. you might need to build some boxes around the light fixtures.

Give us a picture.

You need to stop thinking that BC will pick up any problems, they are only looking at the very few items that need to comply. so they check a damp course is installed, but don’t really comment if it’s a sub standard job, as long as it passes a standard that’s it, not a good standard. after your up to damp course level you won’t see them again for a while. you really need to get to grips with the next stages and what is right and what is wrong, before you go up any further.

Some lenders don’t like the idea. will you need a mortgage, or if you ever sell it.

Hire a floor cutter and cut it into 600x600 squares.

Tell the fencers what is there and you suggest they bring a petrol disc cutter they can plunge it 75mm deep in the ground and cut through the wire as one of them applies a bit of tension to it.

There’s two blokes on here who have done that configuration with I joists. @Gone Westand @Patrick patrick isn’t on here much as he’s building up his empire.

Go and buy the closures, do not take a punt on them not adding much, I bet they reduce the opening by 10 mm

You can do whatever you want, but it will always have a knock on somewhere. we wanted timber and no shell for a large span, but the timbers started to need to be 450 deep. without steel would your I joist start to come out at some ridiculous size like this. you might also need to decrease the spacing between them. all of the above adds to the cost. do you have a drawing. in the end we went with a steel mid span and it halved the size of the i joists. mine was just a roof, not a whole frame.

Our private, track was measured at 3.0 m are you sure they want 3.7m

Change your block type, nothing in the world would make me use both inner and outer skins in thermalite blocks. if you must use them on the inside then there only. 100mm celotex in the cavity only just meats regs, you need to improve this somewhere. how will you fit lights in the flat roof area, does this need a service cavity. no mention of vcl in pitched roof. no mention of vcl in flat roof. on the pitched section insulated at rafter level, change the insulated plasterboard for normal celotex, fit this directly under the rafters, then service batten then normal plasterboard. Again no mention of vcl.

I can see more of this happening as landlords leave the letting business.

He’s being unreasonable he’s added an extra £30 a m go and ask him what extra work he feels he will need to do.

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