Russell griffiths

Icf is not considered non standard construction any more, mortgage is not a problem. timberframe rotting at the sole plate is down to poor detail and design, it was a thing in 1980, but not now. lots come on here and ask for some details at the sole plate, then choose to ignore it because of cost. You can’t help some people. ask here for correct design and then price up the methods. don’t try to reinvent the wheel, it’s all been thought of before. having worked on half a dozen new builds in the last few years I would not hesitate to use a high quality timberframe on an insulated raft foundation, but i would put a block skin around it, even if adding cladding.

You need to zoom out on the pictures can you get a straight edge and put it up from side to side. and from the brickwork above coming down onto the new brickwork.

In a former life I was a bricklayer, I remember doing a job to clad a concrete car park in brick, the brick continued over the openings in a soldier course. there was no catnic lintel instead a very thick 10-12mm stainless steel angle was used, this was bolted back to the concrete structure. the brick soldiers had a groove cut into them that fitted around the steel. This can probably be explained better by @Gus Potter ive recently done some stone cladding on my place and did something similar @GEO-PAR not sure if this is any help to you. large angle instead of a catnic recessed into the back of the stone. poor picture I’m afraid

Using stone as an external skin sounds fine, it’s the bales and lime render on the outside I didn’t like the sound of. straw bale house wrapped in traditional stone, why not, now it’s explained a bit more it seems perfectly reasonable.

I did some very rough analysis I asked for large samples of 3-4 manufacturers, 1 wouldn’t send it so they got dumped the others I chucked on my driveway way and proceeded to walk on them every time I came home and parked the car. I did this for 2 months and checked the damage, I discounted one I didn’t like and got quotes from the other 2. I didn’t pick the cheapest but went with what I thought was a good product with good people to deal with.

These soleplate fixings are only really to locate it while building, you should have some form of hold down strap at locations specific to what you are building. why the lintels, does it span over a pipe.

If you can build the ramp, then why build steps.

I looked on e bay and Facebook, found a lad on Facebook who has a yard full of them, located near Swindon if anybody wants one. he also has miles of underground ducting.

Have they puta damp proof tray above the lintel, some spec of lintel doesn’t require one, but either way there should be weep vents on that outer face to allow any moisture in the cavity to come out. as far as the brickwork goes it’s pretty rough. Either the lintel didn’t fit the cavity correctly, or they didn’t want to clip the back corners of the bricks to get them to sit back far enough.

It’s a whopper.

Picture of floor slab from above. location of heat pump outside location of tank or tanks inside distance between the two things. elevation sketch of rooms pipework has to pass through.

Yep.

Don’t do it, silly idea, leave it to the idiots on some random tv programme. there are far better building methods out there. and far better things to use regarding your location.

You can’t just put any old pipe through under there, needs to be highly insulated. you could make you own up, but by the time you have done that you might as well have bought the right thing in the first place. better off with a drawing with distance on it to get a better answer.

As long as they are in the appropriate insulated pipe and conduit you can stick them where you want. if you price up the correct pipe you might find it far cheaper to run it internally.

Have a look for second hand ones. I’ve picked up two so far, £150 for a large one.

Your not really working at height, with it all scaffolded your only a meter higher than the scaffolding around the edge. no idea how long it took can’t remember really 3-4weeks at a guess.

Call up a cable company like Cleveland cables, tell them the distance, tell them you have 100amp supply, they will give you a size of cable depending on the distance covered and the voltage drop. over 20m it won’t be anything special. Mine comes 120m from the meter to the consumer unit.

Perfect for hiding bodies 😉

They will want 100’s of cubic meters to be worth the trouble, I used to sell mine to a couple of different power station suppliers.

As Simon said, that looks like the wrong bead. don’t confuse plater beads with dry wall beads. you will hate me but I have literally just cut up £4-500 worth of drywall beads as I was fed up with tripping over them. I didn’t think anybody would buy them so they are waiting to go in the bin. if you are thinking of jointing your house yourself i would seriously reconsider this. I was going to do mine but stopped and had it skimmed, I have previously jointed a whole house with another two guys with all the proper tools. stupidest idea I’ve had.

Get some wooden pegs. peg out house location, peg out patios and driveway. peg out heights of all these finished areas, dig out the top soil and use all that concrete as a sub base below the drive way. the topsoil you skim off where the drive is going you can put where the concrete came from to turn back into garden. it’s all about planning. tree waste just burn it. or you will need a roll off skip, nobody will chip it if you moved it with a digger as it will now be dirty, if you stacked it neat and tidy then hire a chipper and chuck it through, only good for clean branches though not grass or shrub mess. my sites 20 times bigger than yours and I haven’t had to remove anything from site apart from two loads of muck that came out when we did the treatment plant as it was horrid clay stuff, and a load of concrete that was over 450mm thick that just didn’t fit in any holes.

My view based on a friend who owns a fair few buildings like yours that he rents out. offices, you can build these to a very high standard inside the main building envelope, so easy to heat. I would fit air conditioning units in here so you can cool in the summer and heat in the winter. fit Solar to offset the cost of running the air conditioner in the summer. the warehouse space is a different ball game, forget the u values of those sheets, unless you build this meticulously it will still be a draughty warehouse, you will struggle to get any form of sensible amount of heat in it without it escaping out of every roller door, or roof to wall junction, the floor is one huge cold spot sucking any warmth from the building. either an oil or gas hot air blower system is the only thing I know that will heat that amount of volume. or a big biomass boiler and thermal store.

Go for the best, don’t skimp on the main structure of the house. better of forgetting the expensive toilets and build the structure better.