Russell griffiths

I’m getting far better figures on new builds in the last few years than refurbishing. I spent two years doing a complete gut and refit, back to brick everything out, struggled to cover my costs in the end, without drawing any wages on it. never again. maybe it’s area specific, anything by me old in a good plot is just getting flattened.

What sort of insulation levels would a refurbishment of this kind need to comply with building regs. if you take down the outer leaf and extend the cavity to get 100mm of batts inside it then what happens with the wall ties, are they not going to be too short, then what about the lintels, then will this wider wall fit on the footings with the new regs on footing width.

@allthatpebbledash I’m just trying to be a realist your saying a knock down and rebuild will be more expensive, it certainly will be, but how much better will the final product be, and what is the value of a new build versus your refurbishment. get some nice street scene pictures done for you and get them valued, you might be surprised how much the new build comes out at. having spent all my life chopping houses about before I found one to knock down, I will never do a refurbishment again. if it’s been empty two years I can guess what sort of condition it’s in.

Your excused, because I believe you are building them for a profit. only so far you need to go. I don’t know a single one of my developer mates who fit it, but they are working with a profit margin in sight.

I fitted a steel angle bolted back through the nudura, then cut a notch out of the stone so it sits over the steel, you can only see the steel if standing directly under it and looking up, I’m going to cover it in a strip of upvc to match the windows.

You are 100% not going to do option 4 or 5 never heard such a ludicrous idea. there’s been a few silly ideas on here in the past, but I’m afraid you have just topped them all.

The last thing I would do is use that steel framing. i would strip the plaster from the reveal and add a strip of pir insulation with the plasterboard bonded onto it. glue it to the brick work to insulate those reveals, then re plaster. many ways to do it, but you need to isolate the cold outside from the warm inside metal will transfer the cold through which is what you want to avoid.

Can you get some stone of your choice and set it onto a steel angle I’ve just done something similar.

Phone the company you have insurance with. protek where happy for us to move in on a temporary basis as long as i informed them when, completion certificate won’t be issued until it’s complete which will be some time.

You pair of bumders are really making a mountain out of a mole hill. @Pocster get your tube of tiger seal and squirt a great big blob of it onto a board, put one of your best latex gloves on and get that stuff slapped on, no gun needed no bendy farking tube. when it’s proper lubed up get a sponge and dip it in white spirit, smooth that bad boy jizm out with the sponge. winner winner chicken dinner.

Just make sure on the side you cut out your not leaving a slither of block for the lintel to sit on, you might need to move the opening to marry up with half blocks.

Rip the lot out and go and buy a stone ones in a nice buff colour to match your stone just a thought.

I think it stops the excavator slewing generally meant for when transporting the machine. I think so don’t hate me if I’m wrong.

You can have it any height you want as long as it complies with having a system to stop somebody falling against it and cutting themselves, safety glass, or to stop somebody falling through it, safety glass, or somebody opening it and falling through the opening, window restrictor. you can basically do what you want as long as it complies with a few simple regs.

Pair of multi grips wrapped in a rag put the grips hard up against the shoulder where it’s stronger.

Over the years I’ve removed two very expensive pools and the building re purposed as gyms, it seamed as though once the kids grew up and got bored with it they got very little use. depends if your an avid keep fit swimmer type. some people put in super ovens and kitchens because they like cooking. you do what you want its your house. just don’t be disillusioned that it’s going to be cheap to do.

Sounds like you have a plan, come back and let us know how it goes. if it’s a single story building just for the pool then that simplifies things loads, you could reinforce the pool walls and build the building from a slab onto the surrounding soil. waterproofing and a sump pump if needed. wait and see if anybody comes back with running costs. have a search on here there’s definitely a few that have done it. mine where abroad so different scenarios.

It’s not the pool imposing the load, it’s the house imposing the load on the ground, the ground that you will remove to dig the hole, so you have a house pushing down that forces the soil to want to spread, it can’t spread because it pushes against more soil, remove a chunk of that and you footings will move inwards towards the pool. the last one I was on the house footings had to go down well below the bottom level of the pool, then the walls where reinforced, just like a basement wall. which in effect is what you will have. you could just plonk it on the ground floor level without sinking it in, but you would need a raised deck around it and a very high ceiling. £40,000 for the pool and £40,000 to make it all work, I’ve had two pools in the past and won’t be getting another anytime soon, they are a lovely idea, but cost a fortune to install, and a fair chunk in up keep. you can get a fairly simple one that you plonk on the floor level and swim against the pretend current. im sure there a couple of people on here with pools. didnt @AliGhave one. im not trying to put you off, you have whatever you want, but don’t think the cost stops after you have bought a big fibreglass bathtub.

I’m sure this is what I said. if you put that pool in a reasonably sized room the foundation design will be altered to accommodate side loads imposed on them by not having any soil to retain them. foundations will need to go to a level below the bottom of the pool depth. unless in a very big room.

It’s rough no doubt, so needs a bit of fixing. I would be more concerned over the height difference from corner to corner and from one side to the other. you need some form of rotating laser or just a laser level, set it up un poor light conditions and get a clean stick, go to a corner and put a pencil mark on that stick, go to another corner and see what difference you have. the next bloke carrying on will have a ball ache if your levels are out, trying to get up to the top of doors level all the way around if the bit below dpc is 40mm out will be a pain. all the rough working should have been sorted out long ago. the inside of the cavity is always rough.

Nope that’s proper shite.

I used a 20mm screed to bring the room up to the height of the other rooms and painted it with garage floor paint. the time all the cylinders are in there and water softener and all the other junk, there’s hardly any floor visable.

Waterproofing, drainage, pump, surrounding flooring, extensive ventilation system, extra insulation and vapour control in that room. the list goes on. Obviously every building will be different. the last one I was on the house foundations all had to be changed due to digging a hole that would project further into the ground than the house foundations, so foundation depth needed altering.

@SBMS take your £41,000 and double that by the time your swimming in it. ask @Nickfromwales he’s got a bit of a grasp on these things.

I think we talked about this a while ago, and it was found that the downwards load was so small there was no problem sitting either heavy sliding doors or windows onto eps or xps. the weight divided over the area was tiny.