Russell griffiths

We had a quote from wren, and Schmidt the hand built one was 2-3 grand dearer than wren and the same price as Schmidt my computer won’t let me upload a pic at the moment our hand built one still has mdf doors, to go oak would have been a good few thousand more.

Depending on what look you want, we wanted handle less but didn’t like the look of the metal trims used for the area your fingers go in, we ended up going with a local company who handmade it all in a small unit a couple of miles from us. the trim to put your fingers in is in solid timber, we went with oak, but the do walnut if you want a darker look.

What is going on the inner wall, insulated plasterboard, or just dot n dab boards. if you are having a lot of wall units you might want to fit something to the wall to fix the units to. whatever you do I’m sure you can pad the surface out enough to fly over the face of the steel to hide it. or talk to the engineer and see what you can do to change the size of the post.

Do you not have a foundation plan I wouldn’t expect the post to go down to the foundation , but instead sit on some concrete blockwork that brings it up to around dpc level or floor level. this lifts it out of the wet damp zone. concrete wise I would just widen your strip footing in the area of the post.

A block wall will give next to no sound insulation you will end up building 3 walls, block in the centre and two skins of some sort for sound and insulation properties.

Are these to sell both, or will you be living in one. i would want something far more robust if I was living in one of them, a stud wall with the correct boarding will meet the regs, but i would want something better. as mentioned above sound transfer will be very relevant as well.

Yep.

Some makes do have extensions however I don’t think they are available for that valve you have, do some searching. I think you will end up tearing that wall apart. having two different teams fit first and second fix can be a recipe for disaster I’m afraid.

I need to update a boundary, I’ve been told it can take up to a year 😂🤦🏻‍♂️

Flexible tile adhesive the single part bagged stuff, not the ready-mixed stuff out of a tub.

Do you need a 10 year warranty for a conversion?? @scottishjohn sounds like your build.

If your planning on putting it underground eventually, then why can you not put it underground now, just have the mdpe running above ground until you build the extension. what am I missing.

You actually want a tank full of poo sitting on top of your garden. what are you going to do with the outlet pipe, just clip it to the fence and grow some ivy up it. Nope, put the proper underground one in and you will be left with a neat inspection chamber lid, nothing else to see.

Mines not timberframe, no membrane on the walls.

You need to determine if it’s rain or condensation go in the loft when it’s raining with a torch and sit there for half an hour and play detective. take some pics. water should not be getting under the tiles and onto the membrane in the first place. the tiles are your number 1 rain defence, the membrane is a secondary line of defence. I would do a bit of research first.

A little tip is to liberally apply wd40 over everything cills frames etc when finished a bucket of soapy hot water brings them back up. all the mortar and splashes will not stick to the wd40 covered frames.

I would buy some second hand bandstands and new scaffolding boards, 3m isn’t very high so with you stood on top it only needs to be 1m high, cover the entire room so you have a full walkable surface without getting down. this will be far nicer than spending all day up n down, up n down. you will sell the bandstands for exactly what you paid for them, and probably loose 20% on the boards.

His drawings lack details that I’ve seen shown from others. also I’ve never seen type 1 stone used. im only going by what I’ve seen mentioned on here, and it’s normally a different stone makeup. that could be because of your ground conditions. needs some input from people on here who have done this previously.

I have 3 sewage systems I have to look after, two are old septic tanks, the third is the new treatment plant I installed. they are like chalk n cheese, the treatment plant just sits there bubbling away, I can’t see it needing emptying in the next few years, there is zero sludge in it, it is not in heavy use at the moment as I’m the only one here at the moment. But as long as it has a power supply there very little to go wrong with it, I’ve had numerous problems with other things on site, but not that.

Have you thought of using an engineer who specifically works with jackodor or kore, the first two names I can remember who do insulated slabs.

No photos. you need to stop water getting behind or under the roof flashing, the membrane is only there as a second defence. whatever flashing you are using needs to go really high and lap into the window area.

Why is it sitting at ground level and not raised min 150mm up.

I believe there was some discussion about the bio rock clogging up with gunk, those bags needed changing far more frequently than listed. what service are you talking about, that’s just a big con, it’s a plastic tank with an air blower in it, lift lid is it bubbling, ok £200 please, just not needed.

Your step father should have a grasp of this, he probably needs to talk to an up to date architectural technician who regularly does building regs submitions. you need to know what u value you need to achieve to pass building regs. there is a u value for walls, roofs and floors. these u values can be achieved by building in different ways, cavity walls, timber walls and on and on. you need someone technical to point you in the right direction, then you need to research every different build type, until you find what fits your project. you don’t need to know the details of what shower you will have, but you should know that you are either going to use gas, or oil or electricity. I think I would stop work until you are up to speed with things incase you end up having to re do any work you have started. what sort of stage are you at.

I would think you will need to plasterboard behind the oak frame, not wet plaster. there is a lovely oak frame cafe near me that has plastered walls behind the oak posts, the areas the plasterer couldn’t get his trowel into look rough as a badger’s backside, the gap was not big enough for him. I would slide a full board behind each post and then leave 40mm min so he can get his skim coat behind the post. you will need to wrap the posts up as plaster in the oak grain is a pig to get out. im thinking oak trusses sitting on top of the icf walls, with false oak posts would be far simpler.