Russell griffiths

I have looked into this @IanR and would like to find someone who has actually done it, as I would like to go and have a look at theirs. I really can’t get my head around what build type I want so would like to tour some sites with differant build types.

Did I read on here recently about somebody building with a Larson truss type wall or jji joists i think it was being designed by a specialist company and then pre cut by another company. Any body remember.

How come you want to sit them higher? have you poured up to that level. Tbh both ways look fine to me the only argument I can see is if bc say that you won't have enough air flow with it being tight to the underside of the floor.

Seen it done with I think ground walnut shells, looked to do the job very well but the dust, mess was horrendous

I popped around to our proposed site today armed with a 5m fishing pole, I stood it in the air and to be honest it looked fine, it just seems a long way up when you are used to 2.4m ceilings at the moment.

Have you got a picture @Vijay

Might start a new thread to ask about pipe sizes.

Hmn. That got me ?. It would be nice if they made a (y) type join

Ooh er. Not sure I would be happy dropping to 32mm this pipe feeds our hopefully new dwelling plus two holiday lets plus outside toilet block. Would be scared of lack of flow over that distance. Someone must have thought it necessary to run it in 50mm as it was here before we moved in.

400m @PeterW it reduces to 32mm at about the 200m point this is where I located a stopcock so I can isolate the last 200m to see where the leak is, guess what, it's in the first 200m in the 50mm. Lovely jubbly, as if I haven't got enough things to spend money on.

Have been thinking digging a trench and putting a new main in may be the answer but have you seen the price of 50mm mdpe it seems to go through the roof as soon as the size increases. Scary.

I bought a month as a quick tester, if I couldn't use it it's not the end of the world

aren't you building in icf? if so can you not cut the inner poly down 50-75mm so the black letterbox sits under the level of the beams. Got out a pic.

So after a meeting with our planning officer ?, we have been asked to do some alterations to our plans, so rather than go back to the architect with a wheelbarrow full of money I thought I would try to get the plans 90% right and then give it to him to finish of, so I brought an app called architouch 3D that I have used on my I pad, there is not an hour that goes by without me being impressed with it. Gets a big thumbs up from me. ??

?? you hit the nail on the head, we have a computer generated image that you can scroll inside, and that's exactly what it looks like, I think it's because the walls are white in the plans so looks very tall.

The main room is 8m x 7.5 it contains the sitting room and a dining area, height to the top peak outside is 5.7 so allowing 400mm for roof build up, I'm also thinking of having a 300mm service zone on the underside of the roof as I have so much height. So highest point to underside of ceiling will be about 5m.

Evening a bit random, I wanted people's views on their vaulted ceiling height, we are having a bit of a replan and after taking some dimensions of our drawings it seems that our vaulted ceiling height at the highest point is about 5m. To me this seems huge, I don't want it to feel like I'm sitting in an aircraft hanger. Anybody have any thoughts.

do you mean the beams have a flat area below the height that the blocks sit at so providing a free air gap that the periscope can sit in so allowing good air flow? if so this sounds good to me.

Is this not designed for open joint rainscreen, not a roof, the term water resistant does not mean to me that it's waterproof, l can't see how this can be used on a roof. I personally feel any type of timber cladding would require a waterproof layer underneath it, be it tin sheets or a rubber type membrane.

@Ian beat me to it I think your timber will be only for show, so you will have to pay for another method of waterproofing before you clad so in effect the timber is just an added cost because you don't like the look of your roof. Why not stick with the metal roof and change the walls to timber.

Any idea who's that square gutter is @Visti, I can find lots of half round but not many square without going stupidly expensive.

My first thoughts are sell it, it has a complete bathroom(grotty) complete central heating system, my thoughts are though that after you have paid for the transportation and lifting gear, how much more do you actually want to pay for it? my other thoughts are if I cut it in half and use it on site I will have possible 20m skip full of plasterboard loft insulation and felt roofing so will cost me £400 to get rid of but taking it apart after I've used it as a store will yield probably £250 of good cladding wood to build a new shed/ outside dunny. Bloody decisions all the time.

This is where we are hoping to build, it is only because of this cabin we have any chance, we have been told if this didn't exist we would not get planning on here, nope,never,bugger off. We have a certificate of lawfulness for a permanent residence, so are now applying for a replacement dwelling.

Would not have space to keep it after we build, but it would make a good site office dry tea drinking area. ? How to move it ??

So if we ever get planning permission ???? we have this cabin on site, just looking for any opinions good or bad as to what to do with it. It has 3 small bedrooms and is aprox 11m by 6m i have 3-4 different ideas rattling around in my head, just want to know whether anybody can come up with something outside the box. It comes in two pieces with a big row of bolts down the centre, it was delivered on two trucks, it could be gutted inside to make open plan or knock out one wall to make a two bed. Cheers.